作者:女青年小Y
一、行程概述
来杭州,第一个想到的就是一定要千岛湖看看。其实千岛湖隶属于杭州市淳安县,原本是新安江水库,因在最高水位时拥有1078座大于0.25平方千米的陆桥岛屿,在1984年时正式命名为千岛湖,是“世界三大千岛湖”之一。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f04243c0942464e8.jpg)
我们在千湖岛湖的行程是从租车开始的,从杭州市到淳安县千岛湖区大约165公里行程,有直达的高铁,但是因为此次行程还安排了乌镇和莫干山,拖着大行李箱到处跑多有不便,所以选择租车前往。9月26日下午3点左右,从杭州出发,下午6点到达我们预定的酒店千岛湖诺富特酒店,9月28日下午四点多从东南湖区码头出发,前往德清县,总共约48小时,两天两夜。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01582646d0cefec3cf.jpg)
来千岛湖一般有两种游览方式,一是环湖或者部分环湖游,可以自驾或者骑行;二是乘船游岛,近距离感受各座岛屿的无限风光。
二、第一天环岛自驾游
一般环千岛湖一圈是指淳杨线和淳开线,可以沿着淳杨线,到汾口镇,再汇入淳开线顺时针一圈,大约120公里,或者从相反逆时针一圈。我们的行程是顺时针开启的,从中心湖区码头开始中间会途径上江埠大桥,因拍摄《我和我的家乡》火了的下姜村,接着到达汾口镇,这里是淳杨线和淳开线的交叉口,接下来会去到有着750余年的历史的芹川古镇,复建的水下古城文渊狮城,梅岭观景台、天屿山观景台,还可以去看看最美乡村小学——富文乡中心小学,整个圈就是淳安县新农村建设参观线。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0194cea2ee76132660.jpg)
stop1 上江埠大桥
上江埠大桥是淳杨线最美的风景线,也是吴磊在千岛湖骑行时途径的地方。不仅如此,上江埠大桥的桥面是南北走向,两侧是湖面没有遮挡,所以不管赏日出还是观日落都是绝佳的景观位置。但是桥面上以及周边不能停车,如果是自驾,想要在桥面拍摄需提前找位置把车停下,再步行前往。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e9f59c21727f68ea.jpg)
半路偶遇一片滩涂,这片滩涂往年也是湖水,但是今年千岛湖水位下降地厉害,变成了一块绿丝绒一样的滩涂,几只白鹭屹立期间,风景真的不错。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01c68fb655c17c8fcf.jpg)
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stop2 下姜村
下姜村因电影《我和我的家乡》而火,当年是出了名的贫困村,现如今发展乡村旅游致富了,枫林港蜿蜒而来,站在廊桥上放眼望去,两岸粉墙黛瓦,青山相峙,村容干净整洁,很多人还会去电影中范伟教学的学校去重温当年的情怀。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b236fb971851f41f.jpg)
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stop3 芹川古镇
当行程至芹川古镇时,我们已经走完了淳杨线,汇入了淳安县,如果说下姜村是通过农村旅游发展起来的新农村的话,那么芹川古镇是一座已有着750余年的历史的低调古镇。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e5df3e3a85cc748a.jpg)
村中有一条小溪流过,溪水两岸是粉墙黛瓦地徽派老房子,溪水清澈,水中小鱼很多,还有鸭子在溪水中自在地翻找食物。村中道路狭窄,车辆无法通过,进村只能把车子停在村口的停车场,进村就是一座廊桥,写着“农业学大寨”的标语。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a467e7a3a8116c84.jpg)
村内一派安静祥和的原生态农村的面貌,我们进村正好是正午时分,村里行人不多,一路伴着清凌凌的溪水上溯,安安静静地,是一座还没有被商业化地古村落。
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临走前发现路边有人卖八月炸,这是在《水果传》的纪录片看到的水果,但是从来没有吃过,10元一斤,特意请老板帮忙挑选了几个可以现吃的八月炸,果肉很甜,但是籽很多,瞬间化身了喷射战士。
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接下来还有新建的文渊狮城。狮城,是浙江的旧地名,曾经是遂安县县城,距今1000多年历史,在1959年时,因修建新安江水电站,这座千年古城狮城被淹没在了千岛湖底,直至2011年,《中国国家地理》刊登了关于水下古城的照片后,引起了社会的广泛关注。为了让大家了解认识那座沉在千岛湖底的1400多年历史的古城狮城,如今,在千岛湖畔的风情小镇姜家镇镇中心复刻了一座“文渊狮城”,因是新建的景点了,我和张先生开车进镇子绕了一圈就出来了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018708ea9729c6513b.jpg)
走完淳安线,天色渐晚,没能去天屿山观景台看一场日落是本次千岛湖一行大大的遗憾,或许留一点遗憾是为了下次再来,千岛湖没去到的地方还有很多,比如千岛湖洲际酒店所在的羡山,富文乡中心小学还有中心湖区的梅岭、骑龙巷等。其实即使不自驾,在县城沿湖走走,吹吹湖风也是不错的。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014ffef8cc425ea59b.jpg)
三、第二天东南湖区乘船游
来千岛湖更普遍的游览方式是乘船游岛,可以提前一天在旅行app上提前购买门票+船票,这里虽说是船票+大门票,其实更像是一日游散团,有导游全程讲解并且全程带队。乘船游岛分为中心湖区和东南湖区两条线路,中心湖区去的是月光岛、龙山岛和梅岭,而东南湖区去的是桂花岛、天池岛、蜜山岛和黄山尖。两条线路各有千秋,但是中心湖区开发早,旅行途中套路多,消费项目多,东南湖区相对开发晚一点,旅行途中套路少一些,而且黄山尖可以看到“天下为公”的岛屿。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0145e6d30c6021c8b9.jpg)
另外买票钱一定要多加对比,一样的门票携程、飞猪、点评这几款app的价格是不同,一定要多加对比,我先在大众点评买了180的票,后来发现同样的票飞猪只要155元,又退掉重新买。另外我建议大家提前一点买票,我们9.26到达千岛湖买门票的时候发现9.27全天东南湖区的票都售空了,只能选9.28的票。后来才知道原来9.27当天跑男团在千岛湖拍摄,也登上了黄山尖。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01c312f73bdfab26d3.jpg)
在旅行app买的门票是游船一层,加33元可以升舱,除了可以上二层之外,还可以走到甲板上拍照赏景。船行非常稳当,而且乘客的座位固定不变,每次下船可以把食物、饮水放在座位上,返回时还坐原来的船、原来的座位,另外船上还有热水提供。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019ff112495fea7744.jpg)
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stop1 桂花岛看猴子
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桂花岛上的猴子是原生态原著民,新安江水库蓄水以后,猴子们就被困在了岛上,
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stop2 天池岛赏锦鲤、喂鸟
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天池岛的锦鲤是训练有素的锦鲤,只要有人来,鱼就会闻声而动,10元可以买一份鱼食,无数个鱼头就会从水里探出头来,看得密集恐惧症都犯了。不过撸猫撸狗撸腻了,换鱼来撸一把也是蛮不错的体验。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01718f0bdaec8e216e.jpg)
沿着游览路线继续走,可以来到观鸟区。长廊里挂着鸟笼,有各种大小的鹦鹉,金刚鹦鹉、玄凤鹦鹉、虎皮鹦鹉、鹩哥等等,10元可以买一大包鸟食,买大包送小包,可以喂好一会。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01488fb3f0ac53f223.jpg)
我和张先生都没有养过鸟,人生中第一次这么近距离接触鸟,第一次看到鸟儿自己嗑瓜子,或者用手拿着玉米粒慢慢啃。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t015011aa16b9af1e4a.jpg)
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天池岛的行程是最轻松惬意的一程,走过长廊,路过几个小湖,还能看到仪态优美的火烈鸟,天鹅和鸳鸯。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01cda6b4b50b7da5d4.jpg)
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接下来就可以看到鹦鹉表演,免费的表演,10人以上就可以开演,表演到最后是让鸟去观众群中找面额大的钱,这大概是这个项目唯一的营收方式。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f6c1b1b1bbb63548.jpg)
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stop3 黄山尖
黄山尖是整个行程的最后一站,也是整个东南湖区游览的精华站,需要乘坐索道,其实索道时间非常短,大约只有两分钟,其实爬起来也不算太费劲,但是因为船停靠的时间有限,如果上下山全靠人力的话,游玩时间就会很紧张,拍照时间太短了,其实年轻人可选上山单程索道,下山走下来,索道全程50元,单上行30,单下行25。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01076f8feb679cf1be.jpg)
黄山尖是东南湖区最高峰,在黄山尖的观景台可以看到各座天然岛屿自然拼成了“天下为公”四个字。其中,90%以上的游客都可以找到“公”字,仔细观察还有一部分游客可以找到“为”字,我们在导游的介绍下找到了“下”字,我却始终看不到“天”字。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f04243c0942464e8.jpg)
东南湖区登3个岛全程玩下来大概6个小时,看网上评论,有的人登了4个岛,除了我们去的桂花岛、天池岛、黄山尖外,还有一座蜜山岛,这座岛屿坐落着一座古刹,当年“三个和尚没水喝的”故事就来源于这座寺庙,大概我们去的时候,游客太少,消费力不足,直接把密山岛省略了。总体而言,东南湖区的行程比中心湖区的坑少一点,消费项目少一点,风景也不错。
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篇十三:国庆杭州周边游之千岛湖48小时
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