为什么不要随便去甘南
作者:跳动的雪
前言
甘南藏族自治州,地处甘肃西南部,甘、青、川三省结合部,被誉为“中国的小西藏,甘肃的后花园”。被《中国国家地理》评为“人一生要去的50个地方”之一。
甘南一直是我们旅行出游的重要选项,今年十一终于成行了。
行程
原本想规划到阿万仓湿地、莲宝叶则的大环线,但是大家都想休闲游,不要太累,就压缩了一下,形成了下图的小环线。
29日 兰州-刘家峡水库-临夏
30日 临夏-拉卜楞寺-郭莽湿地-玛曲
1日 玛曲-若尔盖花湖-郎木寺
2日 郎木寺-扎尕那
3日 扎尕那
4日 扎尕那-扎古录-合作
5日 合作-兰州
6日 回京
以上全程大概1200KM左右,七天行程,还是满宽松的。
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DAY1 兰州-刘家峡水库-临夏
节前信心满满的准备抢29日的G91北京到兰州,想要节省点成本,结果首战失利。没办法,含泪买了直飞兰州的全价机票。提前租好了车,两家4大3小,GL8刚刚好。中午一点半在机场拿到了车,两家人开始了愉快的旅程!
今日预计行程150公里左右。
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黄洮交汇处
途中匆匆吃了午饭,导航的第一站是黄河洮河交汇观景台。门票6元每人,停车10元。
泾渭分明是一种自然奇观,源自《诗经》中关于泾河与渭河交汇处的描述。除了泾河与渭河之外,中国还有几处泾渭分明景观,其中黄洮交汇处就是最著名的之一。
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左边的是洮河,右边的是黄河,理想状态应该是左浊右清。水是流动的,两河交汇处,河水清浊互现,泾渭分明。当地人说:天下黄河刘家峡清,也就是说,在这里,因为洮河的汇入,黄河才变色了。
以上是理想状态,我们看到的则不太理想。。。
洮河倒是很浑浊,但黄河不是很清,哥俩没配合好。
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打卡走人,下一站刘家峡水库。
刘家峡水库
直接导航刘家峡大桥,到达终点前有一个长隧道,出隧道后右手边有一个停车场和观景平台。
刘家峡大桥全长568米,是西北地区最大跨度的悬索桥,网红打卡点,大桥两岸均设置有观景平台。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01eba03bc99c4eeb9c.jpg)
刘家峡,位于黄河上游,为黄河三峡之一,最宽处约5900米,长约26100米主要靠黄河水补给,平均流量为877立方米每秒。刘家峡水库地处高原峡谷,被誉为“高原明珠”,景色壮观。
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观景平台延山坡修建了木栈道,可以爬到山顶居高临下俯瞰风景。
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如果不想爬山,也可以开车上去,沿着观景平台与水库中间的柏油路之字形开到山顶,右转进入一条小路,开到终点就到达了山顶观景平台(导航奔驰沟观景台),与木栈道是同一个终点。
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水库对面有世界文化遗产炳灵寺石窟,游玩水库可以乘坐游船,将水库和炳灵寺放在一起游玩。时间原因,我们没有去炳灵寺,6点左右就驱车前往临夏。
八坊十三巷
临夏回族自治州,古称河州,临夏是中华文明的重要起源地之一,早在5000多年以前就有先民居住,是我国新石器文化最集中、考古发掘最多的地区之一。
八坊十三巷是河州民族风情的古街区。据史载,从元朝至元十年(1273年)建起了第一座清真寺——南关清真大寺。到清初,在南关内外,先后建立了八个清真寺,便有了“八坊”之说,围绕着八座清真寺形成了八个教坊、十三条街巷,故称为“八坊十三巷”。它融合了回族砖雕、汉族木刻、藏族彩绘,集民族特色、休闲旅游、绿色生态、人文科教为一体,呈现出穆斯林的生活画卷,是河州民族民俗文化名片,民族建筑艺术“大观园”。
据说想要找到全部八座清真寺还挺不容易的,不必执着,就在整片古街区随意的溜达,街上的壁画雕刻都很精美。
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我们只是碰到了大概三四座清真寺。
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清真寺对面的石壁
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夜晚的八坊十三巷在灯光的映照下,能感受到浓浓的文化、历史甚至是艺术气息。
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中秋的圆月高悬,伴着月光的洗礼,八坊十三巷散发出一股古老与现代相交融的气息。
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晚上住如家酒店,房间挺大,国庆期间270的价格,含早餐,很可以,只是停车稍有不便。
DAY2 临夏-拉卜楞寺-郭莽湿地-玛曲
第二天是我们整个旅行中行程最长的一天,要开300多公里。从这天开始,我们进入了3000以上的海拔。
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拉卜楞寺
“拉卜楞“是藏语“拉章”的变音,意为佛的宫殿。拉卜楞寺建于1709年,规模仅次于布达拉宫,是具有6大学院,48座佛殿和昂欠(活佛住所),500多座僧院的庞大建筑群体,是藏传佛教格鲁派六大寺院之一,被誉为“世界藏学府”。海拔3200米左右。
我们10点多到达拉卜楞寺,门票40元,没有优惠票。
进门之后就能看到世界上最长的转经轮廊道,周长四公里,由2000多个大大小小的转经筒编排而成。沿着廊道前行,可以看到许多信徒在一圈圈的转动,虔诚的祷告。对于信徒而言,转经筒持诵六字真言越多,对佛越虔诚,加持力量更多,可脱轮回之苦。
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寺外围是一些院落,我们走马观花的转了一下。
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然后直奔大经堂,大经堂是全寺的中枢。
在大经堂的入口处,有寺内僧人定时带领游客参观,并进行义务讲解,对藏传佛教不了解的话,听一听讲解是很有必要的。参观时要尊重宗教习俗,不能随意拍照。
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1点多从拉卜楞寺出来,吃了碗牛肉面,我们出发前往郭莽湿地。
桑科草原
从拉卜楞寺出发延夏河逆流而上,不久就会进入桑科草原,一路风光无限。
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郭莽湿地
郭莽湿地位于碌曲县,海拔3562米,是黄河最大支流洮河的发源地和水源涵养地。这里还是黑颈鹤等候鸟的重要栖息地。
下午5点多我们到达郭莽湿地,这里不要门票,有一个开放的停车场。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ce678057103f7387.jpg)
草地上有一条500多米长的木栈道通往观景台。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t017e085f5bf1045503.jpg)
两侧是辽阔的草原。
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木栈道尽头的观景台有黑颈鹤的雕像。
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在观景台对面,有九曲河水静静流淌。
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晚上住宿点是在玛曲,还有一个小时车程。到达玛曲的时候,天已经黑了,同时又下起了雨。
住在玛曲嘉福酒店,环境不错,房间很大,价格309,带早餐吃牛肉面,但是没空调,没电热毯。
DAY3 玛曲-若尔盖花湖-郎木寺
玛曲的平均海拔在3700米,晚上大人孩子或多或少都开始有了高原反应,大人头疼失眠,两个孩子有呕吐症状,酒店拿了几瓶氧气应急,25一瓶挺黑的。早餐起床后,大家的症状都有所缓解,孩子们更是满血复活了。出发!
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天下黄河第一弯
玛曲县是整个黄河流域唯一一个以“黄河”命名的县城,藏语称“河”为“曲”,玛曲,藏语即黄河。
玛曲黄河第一弯,又称黄河首曲自然保护区,位于玛曲县城南4km处。黄河自西向东一波三折地流入甘南草原,受阿尼玛卿山的余脉——西倾山阻挡,绕了一个180的大弯,折返向西,在这里画出了一个近1万平方千米的草原,边长500多公里,间宽40多公里,这就是著名的黄河首曲。在这近1万平方公里的草原上群山巍峨,雪峰高耸,牧场辽阔,水草丰美,除出产驰名的河曲马、欧拉羊和虹鳟鱼外,还生息着许多珍贵的野生动物。
景区的高台上用地势沙盘示意出了黄河的这个180度转身的走向。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01925050d1d7471c0a.jpg)
这里有停车场和黄河边的观景平台,没有门票。河边立着天下黄河第一弯的石碑。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ebf94ae6f74f85d7.jpg)
背后是玛曲黄河大桥,1979年建成通车,全长280米,宽7.5米,是黄河上游建成的第一座黄河大桥,因此有“天下黄河第一桥”之称。这是桥头碑记上写的,兰州黄河铁桥表示不服。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018cd54754bb661e44.jpg)
在这里也没办法全览黄河的壮阔转身,打个卡就走吧。
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若尔盖花湖
从玛曲到若尔盖花湖有80多公里的路程,路上基本是草原景观。其中有一段窄路错车非常的不方便。终于在中午1点左右到达了花湖景区。
若尔盖花湖位于四川阿坝若尔盖县,海拔约3500米,是黄河上游最重要的水源涵养地和生态功能区,还是多种珍惜鸟类的栖息地。其实最适宜去花湖的季节是每年的5~7月份,阳光充足,水色纯美,湖畔开满了鲜花,如入仙境。
到了花湖,首先是门票价格惊到我了,大人110儿童75,含摆渡车,属实是有些贵。
摆渡车下车后是长长的木栈道。
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没想到这个季节,栈道两侧还有很多小花在开放。
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两侧湿地倒映的白云。天公作美,晴天,满天白云,我已经能想象花湖上的美景。
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到达环形栈道,中间的牌子,“让世界,看见若尔盖”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0135d7da3af4fd13ca.jpg)
前方美景预警!
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如此美景,突然觉得那110的门票好像也能接受了。
作为多种珍惜鸟类的栖息地,湖面上的水鸟确实很多。
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意犹未尽,总结一下,花湖感觉有点拼人品,假设没有太阳,没有白云,可能也就是个普通景点,我们运气真的不错,当然开花的季节应该会更美。
4点左右,动身前往郎木寺,不到40公里,没有堵车,很快就到了。
晚上住郎木寺朗瑞假日宾馆,位置在郎木寺镇,离两个郎木寺都比较近,房间还可以,500的价格,景区里也能接受吧。
DAY4 郎木寺-扎尕那
白天游玩,晚上高反好像成了这两天的日常,还好氧气瓶在这里很容易买到,虽然有的人没睡太好,但是精神还算可以。
今天的重头戏就是郎木寺了。
郎木寺,位于甘、青、川交界处,甘肃省甘南藏族自治州碌曲县郎木寺镇郎木村,始建于清乾隆十三年(1748年)。
郎木寺镇被白龙江划分为两半,一半在甘肃省,一半在四川省,对应两座藏传佛教寺庙,分别是甘肃的达仓郎木赛赤寺和四川的达仓郎木格尔底寺,两个寺院隔着小溪相互守望。郎木寺海拔3480米。
达仓郎木赛赤寺
我们上午先去了甘肃赛赤寺,“赛赤”的意思是金色的宝座,寺内红白色的建筑依山而建,并错落有致,金碧辉煌的屋顶在太阳底下金光闪闪。门票成人30,儿童15。
寺院入口处有8座金色的白塔整齐排列。
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进寺之后左转的山坡上就是晒佛台,可以俯瞰郎木寺镇全貌,对面的格尔底寺依稀可见。
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沿路往后山走,去往天葬台,我们是没兴趣的,转弯奔往金顶的方向。
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由于对藏传佛教不太了解,我们的重点放在了建筑上,金顶建筑的视觉冲击确实震撼。
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达仓郎木格尔底寺
格尔底寺是四川省西北部的藏传佛教大寺之一,始建于1748年,在四川省、甘肃省、青海省藏区有一定影响。寺内供奉着圆寂后近三百年都不腐坏的第五世格尔登活佛的肉身灵体,为寺院的镇寺之宝。
但我们的目标确是寺后的纳摩峡谷。白龙江就发源于此。
白龙江,长江支流嘉陵江的支流。发源于甘肃省甘南藏族自治州碌曲县与四川省若尔盖县交界的郎木寺,全长576千米,流域面积3.18万平方千米。
格尔底寺门票30,无儿童票。购票后可以开车直达寺院门口的停车场,如果走上去的话稍微有点远。
给寺院一张全景,就开始纳摩峡谷徒步了。赛赤寺是金顶,相比起来格尔底寺显得朴素了很多。
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这就是白龙江了,上边的小房子里都是水流驱动的转经轮。
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纳摩峡谷主打一个原生态,里边没有修建平坦的步行道,都是河滩石子路,注意安全的情况下,也是非常棒的体验。峡谷入口处的仙女洞是个天然石洞,入口低矮,里边空间挺大的,没有灯光,这种神秘的地方天然的具有吸引力。
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峡谷的尽头可以骑马探索白龙江源头。
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从峡谷出来,我们直接踏上了去扎尕那的路,准备晚上在扎尕那住宿。
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扎尕那
扎尕那,藏语意为“石匣子”,它是一座天然的并且完整的石城,其地形地貌像是一座规模宏大的巨型宫殿,堪称自然奇观。这片世外桃源早在近百年前就被洛克誉为亚当和夏娃的诞生地。
扎尕那门票成人80,儿童40。原本预计进扎尕那之前会有较长的一段堵车,但是堵车并没出现。
整个扎尕那由四个村子组成,顺着山势分布,从上到下分别为代巴村、 达日村、业日村、东哇村。
这是遇见扎尕那的第一眼,并没有很惊艳,依山而建的村子,房屋错落有致,街道狭窄。
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我们先到酒店安排好住宿。景区内的酒店条件差、价格贵,就不提了。
老板说晚上有篝火晚会,我们去凑个热闹。
夜晚的扎尕那。
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按照村民的指点,我们顺利找到了篝火晚会的地方。
篝火在黑暗中熊熊燃烧,一些藏族村民或穿藏袍或穿现代服装,伴随着藏族音乐带头跳起民族舞蹈,整个场地充满欢乐和热烈的气氛。
静谧的山村,一夜无话。
DAY5 扎尕那
扎尕那预留了一整天的时间,晚上仍然住这里,要用足够的时间深度的感受这片处女地。
早上晨雾弥漫的扎尕那。
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我们步行到游客中心,排队买观光车票,40一位,然后坐观光车到终点一线天,开始了今天的游览。山顶雾气未散,山头都还掩在云里。
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往前走一段路,到了骑马的地方。其他的价格不记得了,我们骑了全程,从一线天开始,到仙女滩结束,全程22公里,近4个小时,价格是700。
你问我值不值,毕竟路程和时间在这摆着,马主人还要全程20多公里徒步跟行,而且全程有高山、有峡谷、有草甸、有溪流,走的路都比较原生态,有土路、石子路、有山坡草场、有森林穿梭也有涉水路面。怎么算都是很值。
但是要不要骑全程,还是要自己定。骑过我才真切体会到骑马真是个力气活,骑完之后屁股疼、腿疼、膝盖疼。
这4个小时的骑行,只有前半段有半个多小时的时间出了太阳,其他时间都是大雾弥漫,很遗憾,肯定是错过了一些风景的。
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路程过半时,在一片高山草甸,停下来修整。马儿自由吃草,藏民们都围一起午饭。
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人马都饱餐后,继续后半段的行程。
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后半程有很多不规范的路,有多处溪水从路面流过的涉水路面,有修路和修桥不得不绕行野路的路段,部分路段甚至还有些危险。就是这么原生态!
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当然还是不乏美景。
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终于远远地看到了扎尕那村落的轮廓,我们到达了终点仙女滩。
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此时腿和屁股感觉已经不是自己的了,赶紧下马活动活动。
步行到仙女滩两三百米,很近。仙女滩是一片开阔的半山腰草场,可以俯瞰村落全貌。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0126a1d3e7e27d576d.jpg)
沿栈道爬山半小时左右可以到达仙女湖。很小的一个湖,体力充沛的可以上去看看,否则建议忽略。
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返回仙女滩,大家步行下山,回到早晨出发的游客中心广场。
然后就发现了明天要走的洛克之路起点。
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扎尕那其实还有两个地方没有去,拉桑寺院和达日观景台,但实在是太累了,今天就到这里吧,回去吃饭休息。睡饱了准备明天的洛克之路。
DAY6 扎尕那-扎古录-合作
今天没有景点,多半天都要泡在洛克之路上,走起!
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洛克之路
洛克之路是指美国植物学家约瑟夫·洛克当年选择的一条从卓尼县扎古录到迭部扎尕那的科考路线。现在这条路线因其具有的挑战性和一路上令人惊叹的美景而声名鹊起。洛克之路又被称为“中国最美100公里”。
进入扎尕那的时候就听说洛克之路在修路,限时段开放。我们多方打听的结果,国庆期间是夜间施工,白天开放,所以没有影响。
洛克之路也是此行最期待的部分,但是当天下雨!!!也许是旅行前几天的运气都用光了,我们在洛克之路上的全程基本都在下雨,视线一直不是很好,但是惊鸿一瞥,也能想象在阳光明媚的天气,这条路上的景色是多么的惊人。
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总结一下:
1、有人说走洛克之路从扎古录反向进入扎尕那可以不用门票,我们从扎尕那出来的路上确实没看到有验票的卡口,有兴趣的可以试一下,应该是真的。
2、从扎尕那出来的前几公里路面都已经修好了,很好走。
3、之前也是对它的路况奇差做好了充足的心理准备,结果是并没有想象的那么差。网上说的炮弹坑,在中后段的很长的路段上确实很多很密,但是都不深,路上很多小轿车都可以顺利通过,没有问题,由于下雨,没顾得拍照。
晚上住在合作市,这里可是甘南的州府哦。建南洲际酒店,不到四百的价格,比较新,条件很好,早餐不错,推荐。
DAY7 合作-兰州
本来合作这里有一个米拉日巴九层佛阁要去参观,但是我们要赶在1点半前还车,时间有点紧,就放弃了,直接回兰州。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014bd3a4e24977f42a.jpg)
还车这个事还搞得我们挺紧张,9点从合作出发,12点半到盛达希尔顿酒店放下行李,再往甘肃省博物馆附近的还车点开,路上还要加油,兰州市里又有点堵车。最后我们赶在2点以前还完了车,再晚点就要交超时费了。
甘肃省博物馆
来到兰州,一定要去参观省博物馆。免费,可以提前3日预约。各个展馆都有义务讲解员,精华应该在丝绸之路展厅,跟着走一遍,对历史、馆藏文物都会有初步了解。
甘肃省博物馆内的国宝级文物就有好几件,其中最有名的当然是铜奔马。展品前围了密密麻麻的人。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01451e6a44aa2c4448.jpg)
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人太多了,没有拍太多照片。
黄河铁桥
兰州黄河铁桥,又名中山桥。清光绪三十四年(1908年)5月9日,兰州黄河铁桥工程正式开工。清宣统元年(1909年)8月19日,兰州黄河铁桥竣工通行,共花费白银30.66万两。距今100多年历史。铁桥长233.5米,宽8.36米,是兰州的标志性景观,有“天下黄河第一桥”的美誉。
到了兰州肯定是要来铁桥打个卡的,对面的白塔山公园晚上的灯光也是很好。
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从铁桥回到酒店,好好的睡一觉准备第二天早上飞机回京了。
结尾
因为季节和天气的原因,没有办法欣赏到全部九色的甘南。但已遇到的风景已经不虚此行,如果有机会的话,可以夏季再来一次,从兰州一直开到成都,应该非常不错。
关于费用,因为我们的机票和租车都很贵,就不统计了,其他门票住宿之类的我也提到了,各位自己可以估算一下。如果家里没有娃,又年假富裕的话,还是不要在国庆假期凑热闹了,贵!
阅读更多国内度假精彩内容,可前往什么值得买查看
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樊穆贵3615现在去甘南旅游有危险吗 -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 也不是甘南所有地方都危险,我刚从甘南回来,路很好.我走的路线是兰州-广河-和政-临夏-夏河-合作-碌曲-尕海-郎木寺-唐克(郎木寺到唐克的路被大车压得有些烂,但是这一段风景真的很美)-若尔盖-花湖-经郎木寺等原路返回兰州.
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储闵香18638877319 ______ 非常适合的呀,和家人一起感受藏族风情那是再好不过的了,不过千万不要去报哪些走马观花、一个团几十个人的旅行团.我们全家上次去甘南报了图途旅行的半自助游,一路上有司机代驾,想去的地方都可以定制的,而且没有墙纸消费,这是现在很多旅行社没有的,给我们配了4人座的SUV,正好一家人一辆车,想在哪里多待一会儿就待,哪里觉得不好玩想走就走,玩得非常尽兴.你可以去了他们官网搜看看啦~
樊穆贵3615十一去想去甘南.不知如何 -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 十一去甘南气温有点凉,草原也快不行了,还是七八月份比较好.甘南是个好地方那真是,天高,云淡,雄伟,辽阔,纯净,安宁,值得一游.好好记住土门关这个地方,那是青藏高原和黄土高原的分界处. 1、 兰州--夏河.拉卜楞寺,贡唐宝...
樊穆贵3615去甘南有没有什么旅游陷阱呢?安全吗?
储闵香18638877319 ______ 其实出去旅游,不论到哪里都没有说绝对的安全,重要的还是自己要多留点心,但是甘南旅游还没怎么开发,人民都是很友好很淳朴的,喇嘛也很友好,我们上次一路玩下来都很安全,没有什么旅游陷阱,因为我们是报团去的,旅行社安排的行程,建议你如果比较担心的话,还是要抱团去,我们报的是图途旅行,一路上玩的都很开心,没有遇到什么麻烦,他们属于高端定制,很自由,不会有什么强制消费,你可以去了解看看,希望能帮到你.
樊穆贵3615十一一个人游甘南有什么注意事项? 我是女生,江苏人 -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 最近那边下雨很冷的,其实是不建议去甘南,夏天的话可以过去去去桑科草原,拉卜楞寺,郎木寺,还可以去到尕海,这两天那边已经没什么好玩的了
樊穆贵3615国庆骑单车游甘南地区,安全吗?? -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 我是甘南的.没事的,又不是走到深山老林里了,根本就用不到治安,满大路的车辆,谁敢拿你怎么样,再说这里也没你想象的那么乱.
樊穆贵3615为什么一定要去甘南,甘南自助游攻略 -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 这里质朴,这里惊艳,这里远离凡尘,这里是藏传佛教的圣地,这 里是背包客的天堂,这里就是甘南.甘南不是甘肃南部的简称,它 是一个行政区——甘南藏族自治州,位于甘肃省西南部,地处甘、 青、川三省交界处,丝绸之路河南道和唐蕃...
樊穆贵3615十一旅游景好人少的地方总结,国庆去哪旅游人少大盘点 -
储闵香18638877319 ______ 1甘南 甘南是高原上的香巴拉,流经甘南的黄河给了甘南苍茫高远,水天相接的壮丽景色;居住于此的藏族民众给了甘南绚丽、多姿的民俗风情. 黄河,阿尼玛卿山,格桑花,高原尕海,还有那古老神秘的藏传佛教,雄伟壮丽的拉卜楞寺,还...
樊穆贵3615甘南两天时间自驾游有推荐路线吗?
储闵香18638877319 ______ 在2019年夏天用十天时间,独自一人,一辆城市越野车,行驶约3000km完成了 甘南 自驾行.有一些注意事项分享给大家,希望能有所帮助.攻略里没有安利,没有行程...
樊穆贵3615甘南旅游从宝鸡出发怎样走?
储闵香18638877319 ______ 宝鸡上高速去天水方向,经历23个隧道,最长的是麦积山隧道,12.08公里,4个服务区,隧道限速60以下.在陇西下高速,往渭源临洮方向,在临洮北上高速,经临夏至合作市(这样走比直接走告诉到兰州节省120公里左右),但是这个路线因...