作者：Aires行记
离开建水后，我们来到了下一站目的地——元阳。两天时间，在这里看了一场又一场如梦似幻的梯田表演，从清晨到日暮，从床头到田埂，沉浸于这份世界遗产的千变万化中。
元阳梯田位于元阳县的哀牢山南部，是红河哈尼梯田的核心区。世代生活在这里的哈尼族，用古老的智慧在这片土地上修筑起了梯田，就像在大地上书写了一部民族巨型史书。
在元阳看梯田，讲究天时地利人和。
时机很重要。每年12月至次年4月，正是梯田的蓄水期，在光与影的映衬下，梯田变得色彩斑斓，像极了被揉碎的云彩。
地点很重要。好在当地人早已为我们这群观光客们总结好了，多依树看日出、坝达看日落、箐口看云中仙境、老虎嘴看日落……
当然，运气也很重要，毕竟这里的天气预报也有可能不太准确。
除了梯田风情，元阳还保留着浓郁的人文传统。在原始哈尼族村落阿者科，我们见到了当地特色的蘑菇房，和依旧生活在这里的老人们。
还有幸体验了一把长街宴的传统，由当地两位德高望重的长老作为咪谷，带我们重回哈尼十月年中的古老盛会，品味当地传统美食，祈祷来年的好运气。
元阳梯田
多依树景区
元阳梯田规模宏大，气势磅礴，绵延整个红河南岸的红河、元阳、绿春及金平等县，仅元阳县境内就有17万亩梯田。而在这17万亩之中，又以多依树景区、坝达景区、箐口哈尼小镇、老虎嘴（因泥石流灾害景观受损）为胜景。
多依树景区是摄影师们爱好梯田日出的据点。这里三面临山，一面坠入山谷。日出时分，阳光洒向梯田，犹如不同色块的油彩从上而下倾泻，十分壮观。
我们当晚住的多依树半山酒店，景观一流。梯田零距离，躺在床上就能看日出。虽然因为天气原因第二天没看到日出，但也欣赏了一出云雾奇观。云雾时而弥漫山谷，遮盖村庄，时而无影无踪，引人遐思。
坝达景区
坝达景区以日落景观出名，上万亩的超大规模，3700多级连绵不断的梯田，日落时霞光落在波光粼粼的水面上，宛若天梯，美不胜收。
可惜我们到达时是11月中旬，还有很多梯田未灌水，景色差不少。另外，有条件的朋友强烈建议带无人机，俯瞰视角震撼一万倍！
箐口哈尼小镇
整个箐口寨子被一层层的梯田所包围，一直延伸到胜村一带。晴时有森林、村寨、梯田和蓝天白云，阴时云雾缭绕，水、山、天和村寨相接相连，像极了雾中仙境。
小镇上有一家香典酒馆，适合旅人歇脚。三楼有一个超大露台，坐着，点一杯咖啡，看着远处的梯田放空，一路的奔波，早已抛之脑后。
哈尼梯田文化博物馆
1300多年前，为躲避战乱，哈尼族人来到了这里，把青山变成层层叠叠的梯田，开拓了梯田农耕稻作文化。想要深入感受当地文化，推荐来哈尼梯田文化博物馆。
在空间设计上，能真实感受到博物馆的融入当地。走廊吸收了哈尼人开凿梯田的智慧，依山就势呈阶梯状，很有代入感。
一些稻作用具、房屋模型，向我们展示了哈尼族的迁徙、文化、民俗，哈尼梯田的发展与保护。
展厅的地上还设计了一些俏皮的当地方言，上面说的就是哈尼十月年，是一年中最大最隆重的节日，类似于汉族的「春节」。
馆里还展示了当地各种少数民族服饰和配饰，让哈尼文化变得更加鲜活。
阿者科
在哈尼语中，阿者科意为「茂盛的森林」，是当地保存最完整和最古老的村落。云雾缭绕的山崖，层层迭起的梯田，世居在此的哈尼族，至今保留着「森林-水系-梯田-村庄」的生态聚落体系。
从寨门进入后，走过长长的青石板路，就能看见一栋栋蘑菇屋组成的村落，在天边隐现。黄色墙体的蘑菇屋，顶部是厚厚的茅草，恍若隔世。
我们来的时候村子里没什么游客，老人们都在自家门口晒太阳，让鼓励发展旅游带动经济的《阿者科计划》似乎多了一丝乡愁的味道。
全福庄
全福庄是当地一个小村落，就在马路边上。沿着小路往里走到尽头，就能看到一片超级近距离的梯田，还是免费的。
近景是梯田，远景是山峦云雾，时而涌到梯田之上，时而消失不见，只见当地的老人背负稻草从田埂上缓缓走过。
这里的梯田不仅平易近人，也富有野趣。人们可以穿上防水套装，亲自下梯田徒手抓鱼，体验儿时的乐趣。
赶集日
图片来源于@球球在路上
世代生活在这里的哈尼族人保持着自己独特的文化习俗——赶集。元阳当地有三个大的赶集地点：胜村、新街、牛角寨，都是四天一次。可以提前跟酒店确认好时间地点以免跑空。
图片来源于@球球在路上
市集当天当地的妇女会穿起传统服装，背着背篓，很有民族风情。商品也是琳琅满目，有各种小吃，也有民族手工艺品，街上就像过节一样热闹。
元阳美食
红米米线
元阳梯田红米是特产，用哈尼族传统耕作方式种出来的红米，米粒细小，口感好。这里不仅有特色的红米饭，还有红米米线，吃起来有一股自然的清香。
紫山药
紫山药也是元阳当地的特产，可以做饮品，也可以做菜，比如紫山药排骨，营养价值很高。
长街宴
每年的农历十月年，哈尼族村落都会摆长街宴庆祝丰收，几百米的宴席，家家户户都会拿出自家的拿手菜，大家从龙头吃到龙尾，好不热闹。
这次我们在当地酒店体验了一番长街宴，稻花鱼、蘸水鸡、腊肉等哈尼美食，融合成了舌尖上的哈尼味道。
腊肉
哈尼族的烟熏腊肉，也是别处没有的味道。特质发酵的腊肉，用烟慢慢熏，再加上独特的温润气候才得以形成。每年的农历十月，就能在盛宴中吃上这道美食。
当地烟熏出来的腊肉，口味非常紧实，辣椒一炒，越嚼越香。
最后想跟大家分享一个好消息，今年年底，元阳通往建水的高速公路即将建成，原本3h的山路将缩短到40分钟，期待今后这份梯田之美将被更多人看到。
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