古典舞身韵的核心
一部不侮辱观众智商、让人乳腺畅通的利落爽剧《一念关山》,再次证明了刘诗诗在古偶界的统治地位。
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姐的气质毋庸置疑
却也因无时无刻不笔直挺拔的仪态,被网友戏称为“体态监督员”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e7ca704139a37f86.jpg)
为此,她的解释是为了贴合女主人设。
紧绷到略显僵硬的仪态,对应着角色随时随地都箭在弦上的警戒姿态。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0188596ad18aa1a9a0.jpg)
客观说,这种理性克制的仪态相对而言更好学,简单粗暴且有用。
毕竟挺拔之姿在大多数情境里都称得上好看,就算是因硬凹而稍显刻意,也比东倒西歪的软塌无骨要强。
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《一念关山》2023
而以往我们讨论仪态美,总觉得与之相关最密切的就是舞蹈。
好像夸一个人“是不是学过舞”,就是对其气质的最高认可。包括不同仪态风格,似乎也与舞种密不可分。
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《杨贵妃》1992
关联确实是有。
可真要论神韵,仪态美更接近国画意境——或写实或写意,风骨不变、侧重不同,并激发出多重美感。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018d8c6eee267020c7.jpg)
今天就从诗诗挺直的体态出发,看看于我们而言仪态审美是否只有这一种形态?
普通人能达到的自然又不刻意的好仪态的上限又在哪里?
工笔画般的写实之姿
大众学仪态前路明朗+高收益的首选就是诗诗同款挺拔姿态。
这也是后期所有仪态美的基础,一分汗水一分收获,更吃努力。
同风格的TOP例子摆在眼前,虽然达到天花板水平有难度,可相对上手快容易学。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011227cd813a353db3.jpg)
All black 造型
她的仪态风格受芭蕾舞出身的影响,代表着端庄克制的笔直姿态,充满客观的严谨。
并诠释出芭蕾形体美学里开、绷、直、立的审美基础+核心关键。
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《吉赛尔》1970
也正贴合传统工笔画追求的工整细致,让美的每一份表达都清晰实在。
于仪态美而言,抛开其他花里胡哨的造型,甘于磨平棱角特色、专注展现挺拔之姿所达到的极致,是如白鹤照水、菡萏静立的美感。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014ef4e6e342cc9b29.jpg)
经过锤炼仪态得到的形体美,兼具先秦钟爱的「体长」、与汉魏偏爱的「体轻」,突出修长纤薄、精巧细致的美感。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t017c0b6ce1d0f2cbb8.jpg)
且更能于繁杂富贵的华服中凸显神清骨秀的风致,这也是中森明菜让人神魂颠倒的原因。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01793aeafc69c3f24f.gif)
形体与仪态的关系,就像功能与形式的关系:两者相辅相成,于双重效应间辩证统一。
就像瑞典皇家芭蕾舞蹈学院女演员、Katja Björner的排练生活所展示的,在经年累月的训练里获得紧致且有力量的躯体,而这种形体又将她不屈的挺拔美融入生活的每一处细节。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019b301cb5bde6b239.jpg)
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《舞者》1994
这里强调了训练形体根基的重要性,但并非所有人都要学芭蕾、也并非的所有学过芭蕾的人形体都很好。
哪怕美如赫本,她的仪态也没有被大众印象神话的那么极致。
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不然也不会因一时不察,就被拍到与格蕾丝·凯莉同框时前倾的头颈。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01fba7d3151a3e8cbe.jpg)
这里没有否认美人仪态基础的意思,只是当有偶像包袱的明星们因此时刻警惕时,还可能踩到过度挺拔的隐雷。
由脊柱前凸不足+脖颈僵直构成的仪态,也不是值得推崇的健康体态,因为违背了人体正常的骨骼曲度。
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就像诗诗与倪妮出圈的黑白天鹅同框,两人互相矫枉过正到微后仰的程度。
但于精气神+上镜而言,过度总比不足强,这也算一种利大于弊的取舍。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b6b7afeafeaa7a37.jpg)
写意画般的风流之态
进阶后更不着痕迹的仪态美,就是在挺拔姿态的基础上再加入一些特色风骨,此时辨识度受不同出身背景的影响。
若是从小练习尚可靠积累沉淀,若是后天弥补比起单纯努力要更吃悟性天赋,因此难度升级。
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詹妮弗·康纳利
譬如上世纪美神波姬·小丝,她在11个月大时就被母亲带去拍广告。
从幼时开始接触形态管理,后期面对镜头时的仪态自然散发着浑然天成的写意风流。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d653a07a08e81115.jpg)
与端庄克制的挺拔相对,这种略带骄矜的散漫、自由且有内在根骨支撑。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011aa7edf7265d1d90.gif)
若是没有个人风格的积淀与变通、硬凹形式,就是美女街头喝红酒与虞书欣路边捡面包的区别。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0166f38ee9245e5c6f.jpg)
不同的出身也直接决定仪态的神韵。
①戏曲戏剧出身
其表演灵魂在于演绎他人的人性与人生。追求为凸显真实而略显夸张醒目的姿态,但又不能过于刻意。
因面部神韵捕捉了角大多数注意力,也让仪态主要依靠上半身展现挥放自如的张与驰。
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越剧《新龙门客栈》
戏曲的形体训练除了对基本功的仰仗,常用古典舞的身韵袖舞辅助练习。
为的就是强化形体动作的语言性+身体的韵律感与表现力,达到情感与意境的统一,提升对大众的感染力。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f8f424f6b0adda68.gif)
周洁 | 古典舞民族舞一级舞蹈家
多方优质审美杂糅的造就下,诞生了陈丽君这样清秀俊美、意气风发的小生,还有赵鸿飞这般剑眉朗目、气宇不凡的武生。
他们的表演经过千锤百炼的实践,达到了体验派+沉浸派的自然。
与永远只演自己多帅的杨洋不同,前者是风流倜傥的王孙贵胄,后者变板门成精的端王。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01906eddd9b06eb952.jpg)
四皇子vs端王
②超模出身
同样是自然真实的写意风流,与有严苛标准的戏曲戏剧不同,超模们只需演好作为「行走的衣架子」的自己。
默认的行业规范也不过是强调动态美中流畅的摇曳感。
这要求她们能在一个运动轨迹内产生相反的发力方向:当肩线微微向下倾斜时,腰胯线条就向上倾斜,反之亦然。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b79e4ac6e9981fc0.gif)
维密公认的硬照女王糖糖,就深谙「对冲感」这个技巧:肩线+腰胯两条直线的交叉关系是美感核心,上提的胯骨+膝关节更是增添生动美的关键。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d1a9d9dd2d2e7295.jpg)
这种超模仪态与演员仪态明显不同,前者强调更具表现力的曲线感,后者则是实实在在的直线美。
与红毯艳惊四方的贺聪不同,秀智的仪态就很板正,她的红毯也基本不凹造型,看起来更显乖巧可人。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0118fe926be4d350a8.jpg)
而那些特别有红毯表现力的女星,都学会了超模同款「一提一扭」的站姿技巧。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0196ab065b0bf31bb6.jpg)
Mai
超模的训练往往以健身/专项运动为基础,主打对身体自由的掌控。
在呈现上相对更“散漫”,也更有千人千面的难复制性。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01884a0a07174c5ed0.jpg)
千禧年的《VOGUE》
在主打写意的仪态美中,美感的氛围意境权重更高,因此审美也更包容。
既有“抱月飘烟一尺腰,麝脐龙髓怜娇娆”的清癯纤薄美。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0114c81845c74fbe62.jpg)
吕爱惠
也有“态浓意远淑且真,肌理细腻骨肉匀”的丰腴健康美。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01358b69f039df6748.jpg)
高海宁
需要避雷的点在于看似可挑选借鉴的余地大、但无基础空模仿容易暴露有形而无魂的疲软,没有风骨的支撑还不如只有挺拔。
因此,掌握有效凹造型的核心很关键。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013397fb5b5924da13.jpg)
有效支撑仪态美的根骨
正如已被老祖宗早早总结贯彻的基本功要领,重点于上半身的头颈肩、背+核心。
①头颈肩
强有力的颈部是核心。
主要靠拔出脖子支撑头部+控制动态力度展现挺拔美,否则美人“一舞定乾坤”只是空谈。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01eade6b8605f03ea7.gif)
无力就会导致赫本-霉霉、杨幂-赵露思一脉相承的头前伸。
要么是背部挺直、却因伸头而显得驼背体态不佳,要么直接是伸头+驼背。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0170ebcad45c0518c6.jpg)
不是说美人体态不好仅仅用瞬间状态举例
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01cd1fb354e4b3df7f.jpg)
霉霉这个状态完美对标肩膀前伸
为了纠正伸头的回缩过度,又可能导致背部后仰,也不是自然挺直的健康体态。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e39909c81fd1b95f.jpg)
前伸vs后仰
自然健康的仪态是颈部的微微内弯+背部的微微隆起,圆滑流畅且挺拔。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ed5250084e38a915.jpg)
岩下志麻
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b3a6faada785732b.jpg)
郑恩彩
之前被Jennie带火、被张元英再度发扬光大的直角肩,靠轻微的上提耸肩+肩关节圆滑内扣凹出来。
现在这股风吹得太过,这种矫揉造作的体态就没那么讨喜了。
造作不行,太过放松也不行。
球花女儿戴娃这种疲软的提肩/肩膀内扣,会显得肩颈浑圆无力。侧身的体态又显得肩窄头大。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0183901d0784bec0d5.jpg)
而原本她的头肩比很优越,直面镜头肩膀横向打开,自然放松的同时将一侧肩关节用力下压、另一侧自然放松,反向衬托出一种上提的精气神。
且此时有腰封加持,核心要更显挺拔稳定。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018ae7b09fccd80606.jpg)
能控制好身体不僵硬的也可以选择提一侧肩
浑圆的肩颈线条还受穿搭的影响。
同样的倾身状态,拔出脖子+露出颈部线条要更有风韵,否则就算凯特大魔王也会显憨。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012027407924d3298c.jpg)
梅姨 | 凯特大魔王
②背+核心
支撑中枢的力量是一切体态美的基础,尤其当下绝大多数人都是背部紧张+腰腹无力的「虾形体态」,强化核心就更关键。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e5d637191d276f14.jpg)
被神话的“练背救垮脸”,实际上起效的是仪态纠正后对精气神带来的正向影响。
背部有力自然就能联合颈部撑起上半身,腰腹稳定后回归人体中立位的美感平衡。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012dba878e9fd0dbd4.jpg)
从大虾到仙鹤的过程中,矫枉可以适度过正。
尤其是肩部已经严重内扣的情况下,日常打开肩膀的同时保持一定程度的肩关节外旋,坚持到体态回归健康就可以。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0105fa207ad45ea183.gif)
这时诗诗横平竖直的站姿+肩部平直打开、自然下压的仪态就很适用。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01708877ac848ec0f8.jpg)
名副其实的黑天鹅
而肩背自然打开的舒展仪态,自带难以忽视的贵气感。
就像与颜巅期安妮·海瑟薇同框的朱莉·安德鲁斯,一个挥手就知道谁是女王。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d39e9bb701726097.jpg)
《公主日记》2001
这种仪态不受胖瘦制约、且让美感挣脱客观面孔束缚,拔升到以举止气质在人群中发光的关键。
因挺拔而醒目,因不紧绷而从容。
对生活中无系统运动经历+无特殊运动偏好的人来说,芭蕾基本功训练确实是收益更快的选择,但并非唯一选择。
各种能兼顾柔韧与力量平衡的运动,都能有效塑造健康体态。
把基底打好后,再去深入研习不同舞种也好、健身训练也罢,这时候我们才拥有创造出独具个人风韵的仪态美可能性。
也更能向上突破自身美感上限的天花板。
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