博茨瓦纳位于非洲南部，南邻南非，西接纳米比亚，70%的土地位于卡拉哈里沙漠（Kalahari Desert）内，却被Lonely Planet评为2016年“十佳旅行国家”，并常年上榜各类“最安全国家”榜单之列。尽管被大片沙漠覆盖，但真正让这个非洲内陆国家脱颖而出的是水的奇迹——奥卡万戈三角洲（Okavango Delta）。

注：下文整理自走吧网2020年“走进真正的非洲”团友张宇澄女士发表的一系列“非洲游记”文章，此外本文图片皆由她实地拍摄。

应该说，博茨瓦纳是我这次非洲行的最大惊喜。

这个国家的名称念起来如此拗口，以至于来之前，我总是把它念的颠来覆去，身边也没有哪个朋友来过这里，对这个国家几乎不了解，仅听说它是全球艾滋病发病率最高的国家和拥有非洲大陆最多数量大象的国家。

现在，当我结束了这个国家的旅程， 一路看到，这里土地肥沃，树木葱郁，水源充沛，动物繁多，人们纯朴，热情开朗，总是面带微笑，特别是秘境奥卡万戈三角洲和乔贝国家公园的自然风光和众多野生动物和谐的画面，用狂野、惊艳来表述对这个国家的印象，一点也不为过。

行程从今年的 2月9日开始，这天上午十一点多从纳米比亚出境，进入博茨瓦纳海关，带上护照、一张大一寸白底彩照和50美元落地签费用，行李随车直接过关。

4个小时后，下午三点半终于全员通关。

大篷车继续在非洲大地上，在博茨瓦纳国土上驰骋。

这里还有个小插曲。大篷车刚开出不久停下了，领队告诉我们穿上自己的鞋子，包括没有穿的鞋子也要带下车，营员们都懵了，不知道要干什么。原来这个国家怕鞋子上的泥土会携带种子和病菌，为防止交叉感染和物种入侵，在博茨瓦纳人关口，所有进入的车和鞋子都得消毒。

马路边上有一个浅浅的水槽，每个人的鞋底都要沾一下水算是消毒过，汽车的轮胎也得在消毒池里碾过。在非洲国家能做到防止物种入侵这种措施，让人挺感慨的。

狂野之都奥卡万戈三角洲是世界上最大的内陆三角洲，是非洲的七大自然景观之一，也是非洲面积最大、风景最美的绿洲。2013年，三角洲正式成为联合国教科文组织的第1000个世界自然遗产。

三角洲内草木茂盛，生活和栖息着种类繁多的野生动物，长期以来被誉为地球上原始生态保护最好的区域之一。

在博茨瓦纳我们将要开启畅游三角洲，水上和徒步两种方式猎游野生动物。

博茨瓦纳，想说爱你不容易，我们要经过两天长途跋涉颠簸才能到达三角洲的门户，这是我们进入博茨瓦纳第一天的杭济营地花絮。

这天早餐后，我们先在营地乘敞篷越野车，穿过城镇，穿过丛林，一路颠簸，将近两个小时来到通往三角洲腹地的码头。一路上见到树木郁郁葱葱，一片片草地绿草如茵，牛儿在悠闲的徒步觅食，处处呈现出一派生机勃勃的景象。

这里的人天生是戏精，只要你镜头对着他，拍出的相片绝对出彩。

我们在三角洲先是水上游猎，乘独木舟进入，要在岛上的秘境营地过一夜。

到达码头之后，换乘当地最古老的交通工具Mokoro(独木舟），两人一艘船，由当地船夫撑船进入奥卡万戈三角洲湿地。

我们半躺在独木舟上，小舟边是触手可及的睡莲、纸莎草、芦苇丛和镜子一般的水面。

明净的天空白云朵朵，好像随手就可以摘到似的，小船缓缓前行，犹如人在画中走，亦真亦假、如梦如幻，我想，天堂也不过如此吧。

这些芦苇中纵横交错的水道就是河马行走时趟过的路。

善解人意的樵夫，看到了远处的小鸟或者河马就会示意我们并停下船。

如果看到我俩拿着手机对着哪一朵睡莲或哪一片芦苇，他心领神会，马上减慢划行速度，等我们拍的差不多了再加快划行。

娴熟的船夫沿着“河马水路”悠闲的穿梭在芦苇林，睡莲区，偶遇河马先生和那些不知名的小鸟，一路一个多小时的水上Safari,抵达秘境营地。

第一次体验水上猎游方式，看到这么美的湿地风光，也是醉了的。

坐独木舟水上猎游结束，到达三角洲秘境营地已是中午，当时天气很热，杨导嘱咐大家吃过午饭后先休息避暑，直到下午4:30才由当地向导带着我们开始了徒步猎游。

徒步猎游，这种猎游方式我也是第一次听说。就是在博茨瓦纳奥卡万戈三角洲丛林中野生动物经常出没的地方，不带任何防护，五六个人排成一队前后跟着两个向导兼保安，徒步在几乎没有任何道路的荒原中追踪野生动物。这项令人心跳刺激的活动是博茨瓦纳旅游的热门项目之一。

徒步前向导给我们交代了注意事项，一路要保持安静不要喧哗起哄打闹，所有人排成纵队，也就是排成一条直线，这样在动物的眼里目标不大，并给我们介绍了一些猎游常识，如地上看到不同形状性质的粪便和脚印对应的是什么动物，近处面对面碰到动物时，用动作示范告诉我们该怎样采取自我保护措施。

我们一路都悄无声色，静悄悄的在一定距离外观赏拍摄。

看到没？远处有一群斑马，那全身黑白分明的条纹、圆润饱满的躯体、柔和的线条、滚圆的臀部，一看就是招人喜欢的主。

狒狒上蹿下跳，玩的不亦乐乎，享受属于它们的美妙时光。

长颈鹿总是那么淡定、高雅、从容的出现在我们面前。

没看到大象，那就拍拍大象的脚印吧。

我在草丛里发现了一个脱落的野牛角。

远处还有一些不知名的小鸟。

在荒野丛林中走了两个多小时，直到太阳落山才回到营地。

天色渐渐暗了下来，草原的黄昏，晚霞千变万化，美的令人眩晕，大家举起相机和手机一通猛拍。为了安全起见，向导频频催促我们回去，大家只好依依不舍往野外营地走去。

三角洲核心区域的营地，散落在草丛，扎根于湿地，生态栖居。土的掉渣的自制洗澡喷淋设施，挖个土坑的马桶，黑人兄弟提水为我们烧热水，太阳能照明灯，完全颠覆了我们对旅行住宿的观念。

带着头灯吃饭，这是哪出戏呀？这次出游每个人都配了头顶灯，在营地，不管是吃饭、上洗浴间、还是在帐篷里，好用实用。

饭后，白天为我们撑船的船夫还有担当保卫工作的当地土著人和我们一起围着篝火唱歌 ，他们平时在野外时间长，能模仿各种动物的声音自己组合成音乐,没有乐器没有麦克风没有音响，纯口声，面部表情，肢体动作，唱出非常动听的和音，至今忆起，余音绕梁。

吹着野性的自然之风，燃着熊熊篝火，听着非洲最原始的旋律和节奏，成就了我们与非洲一个最原始的浪漫邂逅！

在这样的地方，清晨哪里舍得多睡觉，早早起来，走向湖边，小鸟早已立在岸边，难道它也知道美景不可辜负？这时天边由淡淡的粉红慢慢转变成淡黄、金黄色。

湖水波光粼粼，湖边的树木、草丛、芦苇倒映在金灿灿的湖中，周围的景物也渐渐清晰，画面美极了。

天慢慢放亮，打水的、撑蒿的原住民陆续出现在湖边，一天的劳作开始了，小鸟在周边欢快的飞来飞去，叽叽喳喳叫个不停，大地又恢复了勃勃生机。

在三角洲营地住了一晚，第二天返回，到达纳塔小镇已是下午两点。

途中见到了一棵大树，树干粗壮，枝叶茂盛，杨导说这就是非洲特有的猴面包树，感觉不像啊，在网上看到的马达加斯加的猴面包树，光溜溜的树干顶部伞状稀疏的分枝，可能是季节不同吧。

午餐后是休整。纳塔营地是此行住过的营地中最有特色的，我们都叫它大象营地，这个营地专门为大象建了个水塘，一方面供应周边的大象喝水，另一方面也为游客提供了近距离观赏大象的场所。

营地是开放性的，大象就在我们周边走来走去，我都不敢离帐篷太远，万一大象快速走过来可以马上钻入帐篷，拉上拉链，不至于措手不及，没地方躲。

我们刚搭好帐篷，就见三三两两大象经过我们帐篷附近去水塘喝水。杨导告诫过大家如果碰到大象不要慌张。不要走在他的正面，它会以为你要攻击他。你往侧面走就行了。

在水塘的上方有游泳池，我们边游泳边观大象，平时做梦都做不到这个情景，这种经历太奇特了。

有朋友问，离大象这么近不害怕吗？它攻击你们咋办？其实，游泳池建在观景台上，与水塘有较大的落差，观景台下面一圈都设置了障碍物，水泥灌制成的棘突，中间掺有许多拇指粗的铁制杵状物，大象根本就爬不上来。不然，我们哪有那么大的胆量啊。

白天、黄昏、夜晚，不同光线下拍摄景物与大象，都是那么的和谐，画面美爆了！

伴着清晨动物的叫吼声和清脆的鸟鸣声，新的一天又开始了，拆帐篷，整行装，忙忙碌碌，当然少不了晨拍。

早饭后我们前往在博茨瓦纳的最后一个景点乔贝国家公园，乔贝公园以乔贝河为中心，以壮观的象群而著名。

据称博茨瓦纳拥有世界上最多的大象，非洲37%的大象约13万只都生活在博茨瓦纳境内，仅乔贝公园内就有6万只。

在乔贝国家公园有陆路和水路两种猎游方式。我们参加的是后一种，船上猎游并欣赏乔贝河两岸风光。

注意看我这件衣服袖子上的图案，这是非洲五霸脚印图，从上面中间顺时针分别是（非洲象、黑犀牛、非洲野水牛、猎豹和狮子）。这是我们非洲行团队送的队服。一人两件，好穿好看。在非洲期间大家基本上就这两件换洗轮流穿，自己带的衣服几乎不穿。

在这里除了大象，我们还看到了鳄鱼、犀牛、河马，水牛等，乔贝公园也是动物的天堂啊

乔贝河是赞比西河临近维多利亚大瀑布的的一条支流，位于博茨瓦纳乔贝国家公园的核心地带，对岸为纳米比亚的领土，爬上直梯，站在船顶，视野开阔，环顾四周，蓝天白云，绿油油的草地，宽阔的河流，各种动物悠闲自得，好一派秀丽风光，和谐的画面！

随着乔贝国家公园水上猎游进入尾声，我们博茨瓦纳的行程也结束了。

走吧网2024年“走进真正的非洲”25天探索之旅

将在行程的第16天抵达博茨瓦纳

▽

正在报名中

·END·

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