一套简单造型就让全网争吵一周的小花不多，露思算一个。

一边认为Versace 2024秋冬新款的甜美性感+露肤度与妆发整体风格不太适配，亦不够庄重。

甚至有以“嘴毒”著称的港媒下场搅浑水。

另一方则以《VOGUE》新加坡版为代表，将这次的俏皮小烟熏选入3月全球女性最佳妆容榜单。

认为新的尝试打破了传统甜美的审美疆界。

如此两极分化的口碑并非针对个人，争议本质无非在两点：一是服饰妆发的整体风格是否协调；二是风格呈现是否达到审美标准。

换句话说，不是露思展示这套造型不一定被嘲，但也不一定能被选入月度全球榜单。

尤其是被点名的烟熏妆，跟服饰穿搭色调冲突的点有、但妆面风格本身无罪。

而身为品牌偏爱的妆面风格、又乘上复古回潮的东风，让烟熏妆重回大众审美视野。

也让我们思考，野性魅惑的烟熏妆与清纯甜美真的全然不搭吗？

为什么在当下流行妆面美学中，其应用远没有古早偶像剧黄金期那么广泛？

不同面部基础的人适合怎样的烟熏妆？一抹深沉的黑又能通过色调分离结构出怎样的风格感受？今天就来聊聊这些。

邪魅烟熏与清纯甜美可以兼得

原始版烟熏妆主打烟雾弥漫的黑灰调，近看浓郁深重，又能保证妆容色彩的纯净感。

黑而不脏，晕染氛围也收的利落。

远看则更接近骨相立体度带来的视觉落差，仿佛投射下的一抹暗影。

这体现了烟熏妆于妆面美感的两大核心权重：①突出眼部光影明暗对比度，②或强调或反衬妆面重心。

就像当属灵眼睛成为描画重点时、属欲嘴唇的色调就成为陪衬，避免喧宾夺主的低质感。

烟熏妆不同色彩技法的搭配效果，受制于原生眼部基础。由眼窝深邃程度+眉眼间距决定其衍生适配的风格。

①深眼窝+眼间距近

固有印象中最经典的配置，为烟熏妆赋予强势性感的深邃混血美。

尤其是软组织寡薄的西方美人、更能包容扎实的大范围黑调，在色感氛围上不显膨胀弥散。

此时若瞳色更多彩浅亮光影对比会更强烈。

中式西化的深眼窝代表如阿娇，远镜头中对烟熏妆的驾驭能力明显更强、自然晕开的明暗过度也更协调。

②深眼窝+眼间距远

与阿娇不同，阿Sa代表的更接近传统中式深眼窝、略有凹陷但不深陷，加上更舒朗的眉眼间距带来一种清纯坚韧的含蓄婉转美。

同理于彩妆脸代表舒淇，给了夸张眼妆充分的展示空间。

这个配置宜古宜今，在风格上除了兼容上面两位的灵动可爱、大气性感，更有以林黛玉为代表的凄婉清纯。

少了这抹暗影，林妹妹的怜弱易碎都要欠几分说服力。

③浅眼窝+眼间距适中

对大多数亚洲女性而言不过分肿泡凸出的眼窝基础就算不错。

此时眼部软组织的压迫性对风格影响更大，眼间距也无法力挽狂澜，就要从妆容色彩+技法的细节入手。

譬如露思的争议妆面。

从品牌方认领图的远景镜头看色感对比明显、但晕染与线条的融合却显杂乱，就会有妆面虚浮不协调的隐患。

再加上层次分割感强的穿搭，才让整体风格因割裂感而引发争议。

然而从眼窝适配角度看，露思眼尾飞起的猫眼烟熏妆思路是对的。

从面孔风格看，同样肉感圆润、元气甜美的赛琳娜也能驾驭多种烟熏妆。

所以活用烟熏妆实用性的下一步，就要从色调分离的技法入手。

解构烟熏多元黑调的风格氛围

烟熏妆的灵魂核心是打破了眼线与眼影泾渭分明的边界，让其在眼窝、眼睑处漫成一片。

好似墨汁滴入清水，让原本差异明显的色调融合的恰到好处。

经典固有的黑灰色，在色调分离下呈现不同明暗、浓淡、冷暖的视觉效果，为眼部结构带来光影立体度加持。

再联合块面晕染+线条感的组合对比，构成适配不同面孔基础的烟熏感风格。

①100%全晕染

全晕染如线条感的妆面思路是当下最流行的风格，主打朦胧绮丽的氛围感。

于风格呈现最符合烟熏妆高辨识度的、夸张糜烂之情怀。

于日常实用性+适配性而言，不仅不日常，对眼窝深邃度的要求也高、且需要较宽眼间距的加持。

解决方式就是把浓黑变淡灰，把眼影色当修容色。

弱化烟熏妆之形、主打其魂，主打似熏非熏的微醺美。

②80%晕染+20%线条

通常来说修饰性更强的烟熏妆少不了线条感带来的纤细清晰的辅助效果。

而较之晕染的弥散性，线性旨在描绘清晰边际+框定轮廓。

晕染分上眼睑晕染+下眼睑晕染两种。

上晕染能突出眼部光影结构，营造深眼窝既视感。

颇具东方韵致的古典美，又贴合当下流行的混血风。

下晕染作用于修饰中庭比例的效果更强。

又能联合当下流行的眼下腮红一起，在块面色感氛围上进一步缩短中庭。

③20%晕染+80%线条

某种意义看，逐渐缩小凝实的晕染效果≈高清晰度+高硬度的线条感。

所以烟熏妆的线性美也分虚实两种。非常辨识度的实线风格，参考巩皇已成独家辨识度的双飞燕尾。

近看开放性眼尾给人自动延长放大眼型的心理暗示，远看清晰线条又足以框定眼部比例+放大眼型，进可攻退可守。

虚线风格下，浓重色得以展示线条微微弥散后的晕染效果，实中有虚。

浅淡色则用块面范围描绘线条边界，虚中有实。

④100%全线条

只剩线性的烟熏妆≈全包眼线。

宛若羽睫投射下的阴影，从氛围看属于清淡无妆感的极致。

很难说是妆效、还是天生丽质自带的辨识度，属实是薛定谔之烟熏感。

同理，远景假睫毛的轮廓投影也可看做日常实用的线性烟熏妆。

经过详细解构过烟熏妆的技法组合后，我们可以得出强调眼部不同光影、修饰不同位置重心，以及适配不同风格的实用思路。

综合提炼后的四大实用妆面

①矜贵猫眼风

这一着重突出上眼睑妆容的风格应用更加广泛，猫咪特有的睥睨骄矜化作眼尾飞扬的结构与线条。

综合呈现即符合好莱坞钟情的提眉审美，眼尾处自带神采飞扬的减龄感。

又能强化中式瑞凤眼的轮廓线条，联合眼窝共同打造斜飞入鬓的光影氛围。

就像林妹妹的眼妆，破碎中自带一股韧劲儿。

连低眉尾都压不住的眼尾上扬感，让林黛玉倒拔垂杨柳的精神内核照进现实。

隐雷在于对肿泡眼+眼间距近的类型不太友好，前者色彩更虚浮、后者吃妆。另外下垂眼也会影响眼线的上挑效果。

修饰思路在于适当避雷自眼尾挑起的眼线。根据上眼睑实际情况尝试从眼睛中后处的位置平直拉出，飞扬感会更自然。

②颓唐厌世风

作为厌世脸的鼻祖之一，小松菜奈的烟熏妆满足当下主流追求的幼态感+短中庭的双重特质。

着重突出下眼睑的思路能有效修饰适长中庭。

因对上眼睑描绘范围不大，又很肿泡眼友好。

隐雷在于小众文化氛围强烈，过于突出的个性与辨识度对流行适应性良强，但对现实社交生活相对不那么便捷。

更需要坚定内核+匹配的服装发型共同支撑。

③清雅冷甜风

这一风格主打氛围感+突出轮廓线条，很幻视古早偶像剧女主妆容。

对眼线飞扬度+眼影晕染范围等细节不苛求，更追求社交距离时整体的和谐度，抓大放小即可。

所以更浅眼窝+肿眼泡友好。此时烟熏妆的底色也从经典黑活用成更适合亚洲人肤色的色彩。

并根据不同身份、风格，解锁出灰蓝棕绿等等基调。

④浓郁热辣风

最后，突出眼尾后半部分延长飞扬感的烟熏妆、联合当下偏爱的混血风一起，组合出对肿泡眼+浅眼窝都有修饰效果的截断式烟熏。

此时辨识度在于截断色调与烟熏色调的配合。

不论哪种风格，晕染无痕的边界感都是烟熏妆面干净的基础。

从眼睑处着色、并逐渐向上向外，往眉骨渐渐晕开的手法会让色彩层次过渡更自然柔和。

若不能保证深色晕染的干净程度，强调眼线边界感+清晰度的烟熏妆优先级更高。

总之，宁愿没有弥散“熏”起来，也不能熏的黑灰脏。

最后，升阶版烟熏审美不只是一抹简单扎眼的反叛黑，其本质反应了固有基础+变动风格之间的联系。

就像传统古典大美人也能驾驭这一桀骜不驯的风格一样。

于审美而言每个发展阶段流行风格的权重与质感也各有侧重。但那些经典永流传的高阶版，往往都遵循了包容性与多元性。

就算是老活新整，我们也能从中体会到更多更好的美学触动，并激发我们不断更新完善自我风格。

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禹陶鲍1944想买一款好用的修容粉.价格没关系.哪个牌子的好呢?
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 推荐 M.A.C (GOLD DEPOSIT效果好一些) Bobbi Brown的星纱颜彩盘. Make Up Forever双色修容饼 BOBBI BROWN的飞霞粉饼是比较适合亚洲人肤色的,但买之前一定要试好. 梵希的魅彩修容粉饼,粉质细腻. 最后个是纪梵希,打错了.楼主有什么问题可以加我QQ问我.

禹陶鲍1944哪种牌子的修容粉好用 -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ mac的吧,应该是他家最早做修容得东西的.不过修容的妆舞台感太强了,看起来很不自然.一般模特们在拍封面的时候才会大面积修容,但是他们拍照的时候都有灯光和后期的修片,会看着很漂亮,但其实在自然光或者生活中修容只要浅浅的一刷就好了. 高光建议你用眼影就好了,台湾小凯老师建议我们用肤米色或肤金色,看起来比较自然,白色的话,太舞台了

禹陶鲍1944哪款牌子的修容粉最好用? -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 只要高光和阴影的话SLEEK的就很好

禹陶鲍1944什么牌子的修容粉好呢? -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 我觉得Benefit 10蜜粉修容不明显,因为比较闪,所以适合皮肤没有大瑕疵的人用.心机的有四个色号,肯定可以找到适合自己的,不是特别闪,颜色比较多,连腮红都有了,性价比高.心机的很好,别的牌子比不上,以前我也推荐过心机的给别人.

禹陶鲍1944求助啊!修容粉到底买那个牌子的好呢? -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 波比布朗星纱颜彩盘 这个还不错,只是有点贵,只有10克就要四百多元

禹陶鲍1944窝想问问,大家觉得哪个牌子的高光and修容好用?
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 3CE的比较好

禹陶鲍1944修容粉哪个品牌好用?有哪些值得推荐的品牌吗? -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 修容粉以前用过美宝莲的,感觉挺细腻的,后来美宝莲新出了修容棒,就被搁置了.如果楼主是化妆新手的话,美宝莲双头修容棒比较好用,简单方便,一分钟就可以学会了.

禹陶鲍1944什么牌子的美甲修容工具好 -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 现在很多品牌都有在做,非常小器-圣雅伦,川琦儿,司顿STONE,群星美容,米尼,美驰这些是我去十大名牌网10-china上的美甲修容工具的十大品牌名单上面查到在排行榜靠前的品牌, 我自己买的时候朋友推荐我去看的,后来我买了一套司顿的,觉得还是蛮好用的

禹陶鲍1944哪种修容产品比较好
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ BB霜,像skin79或者迷绱都挺好的... 网上买都不超过100RMB,不错...

禹陶鲍1944用哪个牌子的粉底作修容效果好? -
杨蓉珠17589192297 ______ 对于习惯化妆的女同胞们来说,粉底还是不能缺少的哦,我眼看也要奔三了,无奈啊,还是要用好的粉底掩饰下年龄的,呵呵,我上次买粉底的时候是去名牌网china-10那查了粉底的知名品牌的,欧莱雅L'OREAL,美宝莲Maybelline,M.A.C粉底,倩碧Clinique这些好像是比较不错的,你也可以去看下的,我现在用ZA的,感觉还是可以的.