普洱晚上好玩的地方
作者:珑珑go
上个月(2023年8月)刚去过景迈山,出行前咨询了一个长居云南的朋友,因为正值暑假,朋友强烈建议我们避开大理丽江西双版纳等热门目的地,给我们推荐了普洱景迈山这条宝藏路线。
我来云南很多次,这一次景迈山的千年古茶林原始森林生态,少数民族村寨的人文和建筑景观,还有一路上享用的山珍美味,都给了我们最好的体验。
景迈山是一条相对非常小众的旅行路线,位于云南的西南边陲,澜沧拉祜族自治县惠民镇,与缅甸交界,是一个需要通过边境检查,签下“承诺不偷渡国境,不从事电信网络诈骗”才能抵达的地方。
不管外部还是内部的公共交通都十分不便,我是和几个朋友从各地赶来,在普洱市区集合后,包车前往。大概就是因为公共交通约等于无,所以尽管正在暑假里,此行一路上游客都不多。
群山环抱间,坐落着几个原始风貌保留得很好的少数民族寨子(当然,也有当地政府为发展旅游业,强制保留的因素)。
傣族的糯干古寨,傣语“金子落入水塘”的意思。听说这个村子为了保留这片屋顶的美观,不允许安装太阳能热水器。生活条件比较艰苦,原住民都已经搬出去,现在还在里边穿着傣装活动、经商的村民,都是每天来上班的职业npc了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d9510530aeeb40ff.jpg)
每座古寨里都会有一个“寨心”,是用来举行祭祀等重要活动的场所,另外还都会有一座小佛寺,规模不大,但比起西双版纳等地金碧辉煌的寺庙,这里的古朴、有韵味得多。佛寺隐匿在植被蔓延的小径背后,好似步入宫崎骏的画中——不由得想象是否进去吃些贡品,就会变成猪。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012cef2c1fd0855932.jpg)
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布朗族的翁基古寨,佛寺形制更罕见而漂亮,佛寺被葱葱郁郁的植被环绕,后方还有一棵岁数超过2580年的参天大树,当地人称为神木。几乎没有别的游客,我们相当于包了个场,在这里闻着木构架佛寺散发的幽幽木质清香,看着瓦片上的青苔,发了一下午的呆。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ab28cfffecc67556.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f3e2a50e35329302.jpg)
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景迈山拥有全世界面积最大,至今仍在采摘的古茶园,面基2.8万亩。500年、1000年以上的古茶树比比皆是,最古老的已逾1600岁。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b25195421a00cdd9.jpg)
古茶树上的寄生植物螃蟹脚,长这样。当地人相信它吸收了古茶树的灵气和精华,有软化血管,清胆暖胃的功效。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0123ec02903d3e0f72.jpg)
山顶上的茶祖庙
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01264c996b7cb8d6d6.jpg)
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神奇动植物在云南,这里的动植物全都长得很任性
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b2ce48865eacedfc.jpg)
这是蜂王树,50多米高,上面结了70多个大蜂巢
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0188bc379a78d5c47d.jpg)
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景迈山绝对是值得所有吃货前来朝拜的美食圣地。
滇菜的烹饪其实是粗犷算不得精细的,奈何老天追着喂饭吃,水土得天独厚到地上随便插根杆杆儿第二天就能活,就更不要提景迈山这样的生态环境。这里的食谱之广食材之多样,广东人来了都要甘拜下风。
山里的餐厅都没有菜单,在店家的冰柜跟前看菜点菜,今天山里来了些啥新鲜在地食材就吃点啥。
在山林间奔跑散养的土鸡,随机抽取一位幸运观众上桌参加我们的晚宴,和前文提到的螃蟹脚一起炖了道汤,螃蟹脚清苦回甘,小土鸡肉质紧实,鸡有鸡味。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014fa22360eec35ab5.jpg)
鸡实在是不错,又捉了一只来烤……
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0127bab6dd66b5a1fa.jpg)
在云南当然要吃虫子啦,竹虫和蜂蛹,都是与薄荷叶、辣椒、香茅一起油炸。我更喜欢蜂蛹多一些,当地菜单上叫“蜂仔”,应该是胡蜂从幼虫到蛹的不同形态,幼虫糯口肉厚,黑色成虫酥脆,还有刚形成腿部和翅膀的白色蜜蜂幼崽形态,口感介于两者之间。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t017d634ffbee244669.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0180d83ca49759b604.jpg)
树花炒腊肉,树花是树上长的一种……应该属于苔藓,脆生生的
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01788c5d57a643e28e.jpg)
芭蕉心炒腊肉,芭蕉心没有什么味道,非常清淡的甜,与腊肉倒是很搭
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01574b8eafe526f6c1.jpg)
这个像手撕鸡丝的菜,实际上是蒸熟的芭蕉花撕碎后再炒出来的
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013a2d3fa64acd39c5.jpg)
景迈山上的甜笋,壳是橙红色的,非常嫩和甜。不需要复杂的烹饪,就清炒
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01afc92704be16eb00.jpg)
在冰柜里现场挑了就下锅
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f164229575c54bcd.jpg)
我很喜欢云南菜对薄荷的大量运用。除了薄荷炸各种虫子,薄荷还能炸排骨,还能炒牛肉,还大量出现在云南火锅和米线里。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0189d7bdaf8b4665c3.jpg)
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到访糯干古寨的这天有点阴冷,飘着细雨,在寨子里买了两杯烤奶茶。是在炭火烧热的瓦缸里先将普洱茶炒一炒,而后加入牛奶、黄冰糖、玫瑰花瓣、红枣煮成。喝下去浑身都暖呼呼的
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t015d7467bf2cfc318c.jpg)
卖烤奶茶的店家里有个老爷爷,招呼我们从门头挂的一串芭蕉上掰下来吃,反复地说“钱不要”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0154e8fd13ad95ee70.jpg)
在翁基村民手里买了个湿包菠萝蜜,一整个,30块钱(村民也是在地上捡来的=。=)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01e39c21ecf93df3bc.jpg)
景迈山的体验过于美妙,以至于我们离开后去了西双版纳,只觉得那里金碧辉煌的大佛寺,星光夜市里熙熙攘攘的流水线公主,东北老铁们经营的傣味小吃,玩文字游戏卖假猫山王的水果骗局,是那样的索然无味。
离开一个月,听闻景迈山古茶林文化景观成功列入《世界遗产名录》,希望这有助于那里的人文和生态风貌得到更好的保护,也希望未来进山的交通能够得到改善,这座好吃的大山值得被更多人看见。
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