一代流行音乐传奇的父亲和著名摄影师兼环保人士的母亲,如此声名显赫的家世并没有让Stella陷入家族光环带来的困惑,聪明的她很善用这份命运馈赠的礼物,搭建起自己的环保时尚王国Stella McCartney。早年她曾自嘲道:“我有选择的特权,从入行第一天开始我就深知自身的幸运,可以用这样的方式去工作。”既然时尚行业的裙带关系已经是公开的秘密,为何不好好利用起来,做更有意义的事情?
Stella在很年轻的时候就对自己的事业做了超越nepo babies格局的规划,作为两位著名的公益活动家和文化先锋的小女儿,Stella深知自己的设计天赋需要怎样的辅助,在环保时尚理念在国际尚未成熟的那些年,她对时装设计上的一些自我主张于彼时业内显得格格不入,即便现在也仍得不到百分百认可,但二十多年的坚持已经取得很大成效,也于低调中建立起时尚行业新的“游戏规则”,比如其同名品牌率先拒绝使用有害材料PVC、使用100%再生棉加入单品生产、以植物人造革代替动物皮草等一系列可持续改革行动,同时也引起行业其他奢侈品牌效仿。
Stella用手中的金钥匙打开了阻隔环保与时尚之间的大门,让若干年前看似不可能融合的两个矛盾冲突,成为时尚生意的新卖点。正如她的父亲Paul McCartney所言,Stella做的事情尽管很困难,但她同时也证明那并非毫无实现的可能。在最新的2024春夏系列,这位性情大小姐试图展现环保时尚更多的实践可能性,将高冷的高级时装融入日常社区场景中,拓展着可持续发展理念的推广维度。
品牌Stella McCartney将当地的Marché Saxe-Breteuil市集布置成环保市集,以Stella McCartney最新一季的设计概念为主题,在食品、杂货和成衣纺织品等21个摊位设置中,融入品牌对可持续发展理念的愿景。市集上的其中一个摊位出售了Stella的父母Paul McCartney和Linda McCartney组成的乐队Wings的一些二手周边,所有收益将捐赠给非营利性基金会“Meat Free Monday Foundation”,用于推广环保素食的生活方式。在这一季中,Stella从同名品牌档案里提取灵感元素,弱化正装的生硬板正感,多个夸张廓形单品设计为造型注入戏剧化的诠释,也是Stella重习父母于音乐与时尚历史的文化贡献的时装总结,将摇滚精神的不羁自由转化为新系列的风格基调。
令人惊喜的是,本季大秀尝试从秀场所在社区的消费场景展开,观客在游玩市集的过程中不知不觉进入通往Stella McCartney秀场的途中。而秀场附近的一些居民在彼时也被活动的喧闹声吸引,纷纷加入窗台观秀队列,随着音乐响起,模特踩着音律节奏展示了最新系列。
这位前千禧it girl虽然已过知非之年,但从本季秀场概念和整体系列设计看来,她仍是当年媒体笔下那位“爱捣乱爱热闹,还喜欢搞事情的女孩”,别出心裁的大秀毫无意外吸引了名利场和全球媒体的关注,包括初代网红Paris Hilton、钢铁侠Robert Downey Jr、说唱红人SAINt JHN、国内代表曾黎等一众国际艺人出席,让Marché Saxe-Breteuil市集瞬间星光熠熠。
Boho rocker style正于Z世代的社交网络上盛行,对于Stella而言,如此风格早已根植于内心,皆因父母就是风格的直接践行者,打开家里的衣橱,灵感便随处涌现。本季系列充满浓厚的70年代复古氛围,据Stella介绍,当中一些单品是她和父亲的协力之作,融入了她对童年时的着装回忆,Stella还提到她的一些旧衣服现在还传给了女儿,延续着服装的时尚生命,一家老小即便在品牌运营业务之外,也身体力行地坚持着日常的环保生活方式。
一些单品上别致的图案来自日本艺术家空山基为本季系列的独家创作,复古摇滚味的点缀贯穿整个系列,注入McCartney家族崇尚自由洒脱的生活态度。当中经典如黑色皮革机车夹克、繁复的系带人造皮革单品与挺括的衬衫裙等瞩目造型唤起了观客对Stella McCartney品牌核心精神的再度关注。
Stella刚走出校园就以精湛的裁剪、简洁线条设计,以及对女装大胆豪迈的美感呈现在时尚界崭露头角,多年过去,这位昔日的“天才美少女”依旧锋芒不减,经历年岁打磨后对设计的节奏把控早已得心应手,无论在商业还是艺术表达上,本季对男装女着的中性风格呈现也更加自然流畅。
系列中带有男女装常见特征的单品在混搭中碰撞出新鲜的视觉效果,比如柔软丝滑的连衣裙与廓形分明俐落的西服套装、饰有礼服腰带的宽松牛仔搭配无领衬衫、线条柔和带有垂坠感的针织套装搭配男装中常见的背带夹单品、廓形西服外套下搭配华丽水钻连身衣等。
据官方资料介绍,本季绝大部分单品采用95%可回收材料制作而成,是品牌迄今为止可持续材料含量最高的系列。除了延续往季标志性的环保植物皮打造的各式手包和鞋子之外,也首次展出使用可持续材料公司Keel Labs生产的藻类衍生纱线制作的单品,以镜面盘饰点缀的钩织连衣裙造型初现秀场时,在阳光下呈现耀眼的奇妙视觉效果,镜面的光线随着模特移动不时反射到人行道上。
Stella深谙在服务行业的时装世界里,与消费者建立深入联系的动力才是品牌持久发展的重点,而“环保时尚”是一个永不过时的概念,在不久将来它甚至很可能会成为整个行业的运作标准。不过那种浓厚学术说教味的环保形式并非Stella的目标,实现“有趣且环保”才是品牌创立的初衷。“我希望人们能享受Stella McCartney,我们不是一个沉重严肃和压抑的品牌,也不想命令大家应该穿什么,而是试图邀请大家加入我们的环保社区,进行一场意义非凡的对话。”Stella于公开采访中坦诚道。
这一季的Stella McCartney,无疑交出了一张很漂亮且很真诚的成绩单。
撰文:KIKO 编辑:周杨
排版:孙妍
本文为凤凰网时尚原创内容
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McCartney:大小姐的环保时尚生意经
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