贵州肇兴侗寨旅游攻略
作者:小树熊
早上从广西三江出发,直接导航到贵州黔东南州从江县,也顺带说下贵州的口罩政策,建议是落地三天两检,自愿为原则,基本每个高速公路出口都有核酸检测点,这个就方便很多了,我们下高速的时候就顺带也捅了一下,之后再贵州所到地方,基本最多看看健康码。
贵州从江出口下来,本来是想直接到肇兴侗寨的,在高速出口有标注景点,其中有个四联侗寨,导航了一下,就距离高速出口4公里,但是百度导航只能导航到四联村委会,不是侗寨,也行,4公里,20分钟,直接出发。途中看到的实用风雨桥,廊桥,进入村子,小型的梯田,荷花田,足够下车驻足。然后到了村委,就和普通寨子没有什么区别,估计这个旅游点也是因为游客人数的问题而停止了营业,继续往里面走,惊喜来了。里面竟然是一大块的荷花梯田,正常来说,大家看梯田,大多数是水稻梯田,荷花梯田还是第一次碰上,景观亭休息,也是荷香阵阵,远处还有一些广东佛山市援建的项目,估计这个景点可能在不长的时间内就能搞成,荷花梯田,面对着梯田的瑶浴小屋,还有其他配套,都在一路建设,作为援建,授之以渔,比授之以鱼要好很多。在四联侗寨简单用餐(这个寨子,因为还在开发,所以其实算是保留了整个寨子的原貌,但是就等于是没有商业配套,吃喝得在村口的农家乐,梯田附近是没有任何食物贩卖,我们习惯是每到一个县城都会到超市补给一下方便食物,所以到达一些原生态的地方,也能应急的吃上一两顿)
参观完四联侗寨之后,就驱车前往颇具名声的肇兴侗寨,先说下情况,肇兴侗寨附近有高铁站,从江站,距离侗寨可能就20分钟车程,10元钱的班车就能到达,要想到这里参观的话,现在是可以说非常的方便。但是方便不代表人性化,游览肇兴侗寨,所有游客只能坐车到门票处的停车场,除了侗寨里面的人的车,其他车一律不能进去,只能停在外面的停车场,停车场收费不算太贵,封顶24小时30元。但是因为售票处离侗寨可能有1,2公里的山路,所以拖着行李,就算是坐景区的摆渡车,也是非常的不方便。现在好像贵州在暑假,票务都有优惠,肇兴侗寨是半价,原价80,售票处40,要是关注微信公众号购买的话,35元一个人就行,摆渡车是10元。
说一下,其实我觉得不让车进去,比较不人性化,我看到的是,景区内是有足够的位置增设一些停车场让旅客停车,那样的话,拖行李的路程会缩短好多,方便好多,在这方面,广西三江的程阳风雨桥(8个寨子组成)好像就做得理想一点,车可以停售票处,要是在里面住宿的话,也可以把车开进去。而且肇兴侗寨的停车场,那些拉客大妈,好像不太积极,这点真的要学下桂林大妈的热情。幸亏也有个大妈不嫌弃我们,直接上来搭讪,130元,住售票处不远的地方,离景点有一定距离,但是说明能接送到景点(免费),而且还能接送去堂安梯田那边看日出(收费),怎么说呢,大妈的客栈条件一般,但是离景点有点远,会比较的安静,而且还真的说到做到,接送到景点的承诺都做到了,中午3点多我们要求送去景点,送了,还一边送过去,一边讲解一下景点的情况,晚上10点多要求接回旅店,也来车了,而且也带了去半山的景观台拍夜景,想买个篝火晚会的票,到处都是68,他们家也直接不赚钱搞了3张,收了58元一张。而在入住的第二天,还直接借了大妈家的摩托车和电摩开去景点继续闲逛(这边的商业气息有,但是人还是比价淳朴,要是在阳朔,这个借个电瓶车,基本是50元一天,大妈是开心的借,只是叮嘱一下在景区别乱停车,但是还要说下,景区内都是山路为主,上坡下坡,开摩托也有一定的危险性,我和太太都是有摩托车驾照,也有多年的路面经验,要是条件不太符合的话,开摩托前,要慎重考虑),顺带多说一句,旅店老板娘大妈,还是侗歌写歌词的非遗传承人,就离开的时候让她唱了两句,随手即来,虽然听不明白,但是听上去,就是原汁原味的少数民族侗歌的感觉。
肇兴侗寨这个景点,给我的感觉还是挺舒服的,依水而居,有5个寨子在里面,每个寨子都有鼓楼,鼓楼边上,肯定有一口泉水,泉水是直接能饮用,我试过3 4个泉,每个味道都稍微有点不一样,本地人是直接用勺子勺着喝,我也是入乡随俗的照样做着,木质的鼓楼,风雨桥上面还是当地人聚集聊天等等,这是一个有人情味的寨子,虽然商业化(吃个面条都要15元起,但是吃法饭,套餐也有10人400元,寨子里面的物价也不像其他景点那么起飞)但是里面的人还是比较淳朴,这个是我喜欢的,寨子都差不多,但是里面的人可能就不一样了。晚上花了58元一个人看了场一小时篝火晚会,当地老板都不屑,说那个是乱唱乱吹,对于我来说,反正侗寨大哥和妹子唱的侗语我都听不明白,但是可以从歌声中感受一些东西,这个也是带着孩子去体验的,芦笙,侗舞,侗歌,演员也换了好几套衣服表演,道具也不少,我觉得已经是初一满满了。
第二天,借了摩托去继续闲逛,租了套服装给女儿拍照,20元,时间不限,不过就拍了一两小时就归还了,服装换下来直接又挂上,不知道多长时间才会洗一次,哈哈,(后面有机会穿真正的苗族传统服装,这个后面在说)又逛了当地的小小市场,买了两把薯叶,在吃粉的地方,问老板能不能帮忙煮一下,老板就帮忙煮,后面看着老板忙,我就直接动手,把青菜烫熟直接吃了,估计只有广东人,才会那么执着要吃单纯的青菜。午饭吃外,回到旅店退房,旅店小哥帮忙拉行李和我们到停车场,停车场收费30元,停车时间22小时不到,肇兴侗寨的旅程也到这里结束了。
这里多说两句古城的事情,不知道从何时起,古镇成为了很多城市人脑海中最热门的旅游目的地之一,我的儿子在这次旅途中,也问我,为什么那么喜欢去古镇。我当时说了句“因为古镇会越来越少了,现在不看,以后可能就看不到了”,古镇非常契合才是人们对宁静气氛的想象-低矮的木质建筑,古老的青石板街道,小桥流水,游鱼鸟语蝉鸣。但是去的古城多了,好像却发现,每个稍微出名的古城,好像越来越相像,一样的一条古街,街边的灯笼,来自义乌的手工艺品,日复一日的迎来送往,出了名的古镇,好像逐渐变成了一个被架空的地方,存在于大江南北的每一个旅游满满地,看着大家拍摄的旅行是的古镇照片,随时也无法分辨出古镇们的差别,好像都差不多的样子。
古镇,好像现在成为了一种量产复制的商业文旅商品,为了更加创造更加高的利润,知名的古镇几乎都是开设了大量的旅游商店,接待超过景区承载量的游客,就因为如此,原本在古镇的居民,也都知道,那些街道里面的商铺,已经是面向游客而存在,不再为原住民服务,从而导致原住民的迁出,古镇也开始变得越来越不“纯”了,古镇剩下了石板路,古建筑,小桥流水等“硬件”,而承载着一种大家对美好向往的古镇生活这个“软件”好像慢慢地消失在曾经最天然的生活氛围之中。
以前,可能很多游客,都舍得花上几天呆在古镇里面,体验当地人的生活,但是随时原住民的离开,空洞的古镇,人们的浮躁,很多的人只是到古镇匆匆打卡,在所谓古镇的牌子下面拍下一张“到此一游”,根本不需要任何旅游攻略,因为古镇本身好像已经成为一个不会出错的“稳健”选项。当然,对于当地人来说,你也不能强求人家一定要保持最原汁原味的原生态,没有了商业开化,众多古镇可能还会停留在没有商店,没有食宿,没有停车场的小小村镇状态,当地人没有发展,旅游也不会到处一游,所以这个是一个矛盾的地方,开发与保护,如何达到一个相对平衡的微妙状态。
肇兴侗寨给到我的,好像勉强达到这个状态,商业化其实和其他古镇没有什么差别,景区内每个建筑基本上一楼都是商铺,景区内15元一碗的面条和景区外几元一碗的面条是一样的,双倍的价钱,一样的食物,我估计也不是景区内原住民经常光顾的地方。而还是在景区内,景区内的原住民还在织布染布,自发的市场里面还能买到5毛钱一扎的青菜,里面杂货店的红酸汤,蘸水也是面向普通居民的普通价钱,没有任何提价。面摊老板还能帮你免费烫菜,这种状态的存在,也只能是在景区还存在一定量的原住民,才会发生,人们虽然做着生意,但是本身人文的淳朴,依然在他们身上保留着,和其他已经完全商业化的景区相比,这种朴实,这种浓厚的生活气息,确实是比较的难得,我觉得这个地方的淳朴,是非常适合大家去感受,或许,在开发多几年,这种特质在这个景点随时就可能消失了,所以趁还存在的时候,大家不妨考虑下去体验上几天。
最后卖个广告,在张大妈家,创建了一个关于花花草草的兴趣小组,欢迎大家出来踩一下!
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能梁影5013贵州一般必去的景点有哪几个,贵州旅游一趟费用多少,怎么玩更省钱!
空话琬13365708501 ______ 其实去贵州一般必去的景点就这几个:荔波小七孔、黄果树瀑布、镇远古镇、西江千户苗寨,这些地方都去了,当地交通贵州自由行菲菲提前安排好了的,住的是当地准四星酒店. 总的来说,阿妹帮安排的行程很不错,没有任何强制消费,玩的也自在,比自己玩省钱不少,关键也省心很多,少走很多弯路和回头路.再就是,你有啥问题也可以直接问问贵州自由行菲菲哦
能梁影5013从贵阳出发到芭沙 加傍 肇兴侗寨 西江苗寨 镇远古镇 这几个地方 行程怎么安排 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 有时间的话建议你这些地方都住,原因是这些地方都很不错,这几个地方都相隔很远,不住的话时间会很仓促.比较省时间的游览方法:第一天:...
能梁影5013肇兴侗寨怎么样 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 很大的侗寨,五座鼓楼,建筑很美,寨子布局很好,尤其是夕阳下的景色由其吸引人.
能梁影5013想去西江苗寨和肇兴侗寨,怎么走?
空话琬13365708501 ______ 先坐车到凯里,再到凯里凯运司汽车站乘坐开往西江的汽车,不用一个小时就能到达西江千户苗寨了,建议住宿选择“缘聚西江酒店”,老板很热情,环境好,干净,价格实惠.去肇兴侗寨就得在凯运司汽车站先坐车到黎平县后再转车,好像至少也得五六个小时才能到哦!
能梁影5013贵州凯里有什么好玩的 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 1、白天参观凯里的形象建筑--凯里民族体育场和高速西站出口的民族文化园. 2、晚餐品尝凯里的美食:酸汤鱼、辣子鸡、狗肉(特别是那种没有肥膘的乡下土狗). 3、夜晚散步,观赏一下凯里万博广场《千与千寻》似的神秘又美仑美奂的夜...
能梁影5013肇兴侗寨的交通信息 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 1、黎平县城方向:黎平汽车站有直达肇兴的客车,每天9班,7:20~16:45,票价25元.自驾车在黎平南站上高速,向南行驶,在从江东站(洛香)下高速,然后左转沿“洛香岔路口至肇兴”主干道直行至肇兴.行程约45分钟. 2、从江县城方向...
能梁影5013黎平肇兴侗寨怎么去?要门票吗? -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 当然是在在黎平车站做班车去了.25块钱,如果不是黔东南的人,你可以叫本地的拿个摩的带你上克就阔以了.
能梁影5013从肇兴侗寨怎么去镇远古城?想请教大家:从肇兴侗寨怎么去镇远古城,
空话琬13365708501 ______ 肇兴侗寨到镇远还蛮远的!从肇兴打车到从江站,在从江站坐高铁到贵阳北,再从贵阳北座公交车到贵阳站,再从贵阳站坐火车到镇远, 汽车的话,可以到黎平坐大巴到凯里,然后在凯里做火车到镇远.