作者：小树熊

早上从广西三江出发，直接导航到贵州黔东南州从江县，也顺带说下贵州的口罩政策，建议是落地三天两检，自愿为原则，基本每个高速公路出口都有核酸检测点，这个就方便很多了，我们下高速的时候就顺带也捅了一下，之后再贵州所到地方，基本最多看看健康码。

贵州从江出口下来，本来是想直接到肇兴侗寨的，在高速出口有标注景点，其中有个四联侗寨，导航了一下，就距离高速出口4公里，但是百度导航只能导航到四联村委会，不是侗寨，也行，4公里，20分钟，直接出发。途中看到的实用风雨桥，廊桥，进入村子，小型的梯田，荷花田，足够下车驻足。然后到了村委，就和普通寨子没有什么区别，估计这个旅游点也是因为游客人数的问题而停止了营业，继续往里面走，惊喜来了。里面竟然是一大块的荷花梯田，正常来说，大家看梯田，大多数是水稻梯田，荷花梯田还是第一次碰上，景观亭休息，也是荷香阵阵，远处还有一些广东佛山市援建的项目，估计这个景点可能在不长的时间内就能搞成，荷花梯田，面对着梯田的瑶浴小屋，还有其他配套，都在一路建设，作为援建，授之以渔，比授之以鱼要好很多。在四联侗寨简单用餐（这个寨子，因为还在开发，所以其实算是保留了整个寨子的原貌，但是就等于是没有商业配套，吃喝得在村口的农家乐，梯田附近是没有任何食物贩卖，我们习惯是每到一个县城都会到超市补给一下方便食物，所以到达一些原生态的地方，也能应急的吃上一两顿）

参观完四联侗寨之后，就驱车前往颇具名声的肇兴侗寨，先说下情况，肇兴侗寨附近有高铁站，从江站，距离侗寨可能就20分钟车程，10元钱的班车就能到达，要想到这里参观的话，现在是可以说非常的方便。但是方便不代表人性化，游览肇兴侗寨，所有游客只能坐车到门票处的停车场，除了侗寨里面的人的车，其他车一律不能进去，只能停在外面的停车场，停车场收费不算太贵，封顶24小时30元。但是因为售票处离侗寨可能有1，2公里的山路，所以拖着行李，就算是坐景区的摆渡车，也是非常的不方便。现在好像贵州在暑假，票务都有优惠，肇兴侗寨是半价，原价80，售票处40，要是关注微信公众号购买的话，35元一个人就行，摆渡车是10元。

说一下，其实我觉得不让车进去，比较不人性化，我看到的是，景区内是有足够的位置增设一些停车场让旅客停车，那样的话，拖行李的路程会缩短好多，方便好多，在这方面，广西三江的程阳风雨桥（8个寨子组成）好像就做得理想一点，车可以停售票处，要是在里面住宿的话，也可以把车开进去。而且肇兴侗寨的停车场，那些拉客大妈，好像不太积极，这点真的要学下桂林大妈的热情。幸亏也有个大妈不嫌弃我们，直接上来搭讪，130元，住售票处不远的地方，离景点有一定距离，但是说明能接送到景点（免费），而且还能接送去堂安梯田那边看日出（收费），怎么说呢，大妈的客栈条件一般，但是离景点有点远，会比较的安静，而且还真的说到做到，接送到景点的承诺都做到了，中午3点多我们要求送去景点，送了，还一边送过去，一边讲解一下景点的情况，晚上10点多要求接回旅店，也来车了，而且也带了去半山的景观台拍夜景，想买个篝火晚会的票，到处都是68，他们家也直接不赚钱搞了3张，收了58元一张。而在入住的第二天，还直接借了大妈家的摩托车和电摩开去景点继续闲逛（这边的商业气息有，但是人还是比价淳朴，要是在阳朔，这个借个电瓶车，基本是50元一天，大妈是开心的借，只是叮嘱一下在景区别乱停车，但是还要说下，景区内都是山路为主，上坡下坡，开摩托也有一定的危险性，我和太太都是有摩托车驾照，也有多年的路面经验，要是条件不太符合的话，开摩托前，要慎重考虑），顺带多说一句，旅店老板娘大妈，还是侗歌写歌词的非遗传承人，就离开的时候让她唱了两句，随手即来，虽然听不明白，但是听上去，就是原汁原味的少数民族侗歌的感觉。

肇兴侗寨这个景点，给我的感觉还是挺舒服的，依水而居，有5个寨子在里面，每个寨子都有鼓楼，鼓楼边上，肯定有一口泉水，泉水是直接能饮用，我试过3 4个泉，每个味道都稍微有点不一样，本地人是直接用勺子勺着喝，我也是入乡随俗的照样做着，木质的鼓楼，风雨桥上面还是当地人聚集聊天等等，这是一个有人情味的寨子，虽然商业化（吃个面条都要15元起，但是吃法饭，套餐也有10人400元，寨子里面的物价也不像其他景点那么起飞）但是里面的人还是比较淳朴，这个是我喜欢的，寨子都差不多，但是里面的人可能就不一样了。晚上花了58元一个人看了场一小时篝火晚会，当地老板都不屑，说那个是乱唱乱吹，对于我来说，反正侗寨大哥和妹子唱的侗语我都听不明白，但是可以从歌声中感受一些东西，这个也是带着孩子去体验的，芦笙，侗舞，侗歌，演员也换了好几套衣服表演，道具也不少，我觉得已经是初一满满了。

第二天，借了摩托去继续闲逛，租了套服装给女儿拍照，20元，时间不限，不过就拍了一两小时就归还了，服装换下来直接又挂上，不知道多长时间才会洗一次，哈哈，（后面有机会穿真正的苗族传统服装，这个后面在说）又逛了当地的小小市场，买了两把薯叶，在吃粉的地方，问老板能不能帮忙煮一下，老板就帮忙煮，后面看着老板忙，我就直接动手，把青菜烫熟直接吃了，估计只有广东人，才会那么执着要吃单纯的青菜。午饭吃外，回到旅店退房，旅店小哥帮忙拉行李和我们到停车场，停车场收费30元，停车时间22小时不到，肇兴侗寨的旅程也到这里结束了。

这里多说两句古城的事情，不知道从何时起，古镇成为了很多城市人脑海中最热门的旅游目的地之一，我的儿子在这次旅途中，也问我，为什么那么喜欢去古镇。我当时说了句“因为古镇会越来越少了，现在不看，以后可能就看不到了”，古镇非常契合才是人们对宁静气氛的想象-低矮的木质建筑，古老的青石板街道，小桥流水，游鱼鸟语蝉鸣。但是去的古城多了，好像却发现，每个稍微出名的古城，好像越来越相像，一样的一条古街，街边的灯笼，来自义乌的手工艺品，日复一日的迎来送往，出了名的古镇，好像逐渐变成了一个被架空的地方，存在于大江南北的每一个旅游满满地，看着大家拍摄的旅行是的古镇照片，随时也无法分辨出古镇们的差别，好像都差不多的样子。

古镇，好像现在成为了一种量产复制的商业文旅商品，为了更加创造更加高的利润，知名的古镇几乎都是开设了大量的旅游商店，接待超过景区承载量的游客，就因为如此，原本在古镇的居民，也都知道，那些街道里面的商铺，已经是面向游客而存在，不再为原住民服务，从而导致原住民的迁出，古镇也开始变得越来越不“纯”了，古镇剩下了石板路，古建筑，小桥流水等“硬件”，而承载着一种大家对美好向往的古镇生活这个“软件”好像慢慢地消失在曾经最天然的生活氛围之中。

以前，可能很多游客，都舍得花上几天呆在古镇里面，体验当地人的生活，但是随时原住民的离开，空洞的古镇，人们的浮躁，很多的人只是到古镇匆匆打卡，在所谓古镇的牌子下面拍下一张“到此一游”，根本不需要任何旅游攻略，因为古镇本身好像已经成为一个不会出错的“稳健”选项。当然，对于当地人来说，你也不能强求人家一定要保持最原汁原味的原生态，没有了商业开化，众多古镇可能还会停留在没有商店，没有食宿，没有停车场的小小村镇状态，当地人没有发展，旅游也不会到处一游，所以这个是一个矛盾的地方，开发与保护，如何达到一个相对平衡的微妙状态。

肇兴侗寨给到我的，好像勉强达到这个状态，商业化其实和其他古镇没有什么差别，景区内每个建筑基本上一楼都是商铺，景区内15元一碗的面条和景区外几元一碗的面条是一样的，双倍的价钱，一样的食物，我估计也不是景区内原住民经常光顾的地方。而还是在景区内，景区内的原住民还在织布染布，自发的市场里面还能买到5毛钱一扎的青菜，里面杂货店的红酸汤，蘸水也是面向普通居民的普通价钱，没有任何提价。面摊老板还能帮你免费烫菜，这种状态的存在，也只能是在景区还存在一定量的原住民，才会发生，人们虽然做着生意，但是本身人文的淳朴，依然在他们身上保留着，和其他已经完全商业化的景区相比，这种朴实，这种浓厚的生活气息，确实是比较的难得，我觉得这个地方的淳朴，是非常适合大家去感受，或许，在开发多几年，这种特质在这个景点随时就可能消失了，所以趁还存在的时候，大家不妨考虑下去体验上几天。

  最后卖个广告，在张大妈家，创建了一个关于花花草草的兴趣小组，欢迎大家出来踩一下！

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能梁影5013贵州一般必去的景点有哪几个,贵州旅游一趟费用多少,怎么玩更省钱!
空话琬13365708501 ______ 其实去贵州一般必去的景点就这几个:荔波小七孔、黄果树瀑布、镇远古镇、西江千户苗寨,这些地方都去了,当地交通贵州自由行菲菲提前安排好了的,住的是当地准四星酒店. 总的来说,阿妹帮安排的行程很不错,没有任何强制消费,玩的也自在,比自己玩省钱不少,关键也省心很多,少走很多弯路和回头路.再就是,你有啥问题也可以直接问问贵州自由行菲菲哦

能梁影5013从贵阳出发到芭沙 加傍 肇兴侗寨 西江苗寨 镇远古镇 这几个地方 行程怎么安排 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 有时间的话建议你这些地方都住,原因是这些地方都很不错,这几个地方都相隔很远,不住的话时间会很仓促.比较省时间的游览方法:第一天:...

能梁影5013肇兴侗寨怎么样 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 很大的侗寨,五座鼓楼,建筑很美,寨子布局很好,尤其是夕阳下的景色由其吸引人.

能梁影5013想去西江苗寨和肇兴侗寨,怎么走?
空话琬13365708501 ______ 先坐车到凯里,再到凯里凯运司汽车站乘坐开往西江的汽车,不用一个小时就能到达西江千户苗寨了,建议住宿选择“缘聚西江酒店”,老板很热情,环境好,干净,价格实惠.去肇兴侗寨就得在凯运司汽车站先坐车到黎平县后再转车,好像至少也得五六个小时才能到哦!

能梁影5013贵州凯里有什么好玩的 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 1、白天参观凯里的形象建筑--凯里民族体育场和高速西站出口的民族文化园. 2、晚餐品尝凯里的美食:酸汤鱼、辣子鸡、狗肉(特别是那种没有肥膘的乡下土狗). 3、夜晚散步,观赏一下凯里万博广场《千与千寻》似的神秘又美仑美奂的夜...

能梁影5013肇兴侗寨的交通信息 -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 1、黎平县城方向:黎平汽车站有直达肇兴的客车,每天9班,7:20~16:45,票价25元.自驾车在黎平南站上高速,向南行驶,在从江东站(洛香)下高速,然后左转沿“洛香岔路口至肇兴”主干道直行至肇兴.行程约45分钟. 2、从江县城方向...

能梁影5013黎平肇兴侗寨怎么去?要门票吗? -
空话琬13365708501 ______ 当然是在在黎平车站做班车去了.25块钱,如果不是黔东南的人,你可以叫本地的拿个摩的带你上克就阔以了.

能梁影5013从肇兴侗寨怎么去镇远古城?想请教大家:从肇兴侗寨怎么去镇远古城,
空话琬13365708501 ______ 肇兴侗寨到镇远还蛮远的!从肇兴打车到从江站,在从江站坐高铁到贵阳北,再从贵阳北座公交车到贵阳站,再从贵阳站坐火车到镇远, 汽车的话,可以到黎平坐大巴到凯里,然后在凯里做火车到镇远.