作者：johny9527

上一篇，我详细给大家介绍了青甘大环线的旅游准备工作：

从这一篇开始，我将记录整个旅行过程的见闻，以供参考。

抵达西宁

我们是下午的飞机，从南京直飞西宁。

按照计划，在西宁休息一晚，第二天正式启程。包车，也是从第二天开始算起。

南京到西宁的机票不算贵，大约是900元左右，选择的是吉祥航空。

西宁上空：

作为西北部城市，规模不会太大。城市整体属于一个东西狭长的布局。

西宁机场也不算大，目前正在修T3航站楼：

我们住的是桔子酒店（盐湖巷店），位于市中心。

酒店附近餐饮很多，不远处就是一个很有名的烧烤店，叫马相卿特色烤肉面食馆(虎台店)。

店里的这个茶，竟然是咸的。查了一下，叫熬茶。

青海人喝咸茶，还有句顺口溜：“茶毛（没）盐，水一般，人毛（没）钱，鬼一般”。

这个看上去像粉的东西，叫做炮仗。其实就是切成段的面。

烧烤：

酒店窗外的景致：

正式出发

第二天一早，司机马师傅来接，我们正式出发。

包的是一辆白色的尼桑SUV，一家三口刚好合适。

本来想去塔尔寺，但是要多开一段路，有点绕，加上平台客服说塔尔寺不要开车和停车，所以就放弃了。

路边的山，树不多：

出城没多久，大概到了湟源。遥望看到雪山，颇有点兴奋。^_^

当时西宁下小雨，气温是9-24度，还是蛮冷的，一片秋意：

日月山

1个小时，就到了日月山。

西宁到日月山，一路都在爬山，海拔越来越高，日月山的山口是3520米：

日月山景区门口：

日月山的典故，就是来自唐朝著名的文成公主。

日月山以前叫“赤岭”，是吐蕃和唐的交界。当年，文成公主西往吐蕃，与松赞干布和亲，途经此处。想到进藏就再回不了长安，就很伤心，失手摔坏了皇后送的日月宝镜。

宝镜的两半，恰好分别落在两个小山包上。东边的半块朝西，映著落日的余辉，西边的半块朝东，照着初升的月光。“日月山”由此得名。

看到的两个亭子，就是山口两侧，以前中间就是国道，后来修了高速，国道就没人走。现在走，还要收费。

上图中间那个雕像，就是文成公主像。

马师傅说景区没啥意思，我们就没进去了，在景区对面的小山坡逛了一下。

因为高反，爬个几十米的山坡，都喘的不行。

遥望远处的雪山：

我的佳能大长焦（55-250头）发挥了作用：

娃迫不及待开始骑骆驼了（20元一次，走个一小圈）：

还有牦牛，看上去很呆：

草原上很多的田鼠。建议远观，不要碰，可能有鼠疫：

山上比较冷，风也很大，至少需要一件冲锋衣：

青海湖

离开日月山，就直奔青海湖。

路上，会路过倒淌河镇。

镇上也有文成公主像：

“天下之水向东流，唯有此水向西去。”

倒淌河发源于日月山西侧的察汗草原，海拔3300米，全长40公里，是青海湖水系中最小的一支。它自东向西流入青海湖的子湖，因此得名倒淌河。

这个河还围起来了，变成景区。没啥意思，建议不要进去。

在倒淌河镇吃的中饭，味道还行。

青海酸奶，这一路吃了不少：

手抓羊肉：

离开倒淌河后，很快就会开到青海湖的湖边。

很长的一段路，都是在青海湖的湖边开。景色非常好，左手边是山，右手边是湖。

青海湖湖边都是藏民的自留地。以前，藏民都会开放道路，收费让游客进入自己的领地（20元左右），去观赏青海湖。

因为管理混乱，现在ZF已经不允许这样了。沿线全部用铁栅栏拦住了，一律不允许进入。

据说，之前大家都把车停在路边，经常出现交通事故。所以，路边也不让停车了。

铁栅栏，不让进：

每隔100米，就有一个保安，进行监督。路上还有执法车，不断巡逻。

偶遇一个奇怪的地名：

远处的青海湖，因为当时是阴天，所以并没有特别好看：

灰蒙蒙：

马路边是自行车道，可以看到很多骑车人。海拔高，骑车需要量力而行：

单反拍的湖面：

湖边的国道，确实很窄，容易出事故：

湖畔有很多的牛羊群。

马师傅说，山上没下雪的时候，牛羊会被赶到山上吃草。下雪时，就赶回草原吃草。一个普通的牛（肉多），大约7000-10000块，牦牛好像更便宜一些。羊更便宜。

这些藏民，其实都非常有钱。ZF还按户口发补贴。

青海湖的官方景区是二郎剑。几乎所有人都建议不要去二郎剑（很小，且好像碰不到湖水）。所以，我们没有去，直接杀奔黑马河镇。

路过了二郎剑景区门口：

继续沿着湖边公路开：

颜色层次感：

马路左侧是雪山：

远处突出的半岛（不是山），就是黑马河镇：

天气变化，湖面开始变色：

到处都是牛羊群：

碰巧看到牛打架：

路边的牛，悠然自得：

沿途经过很多的藏族村镇：

 黑马河镇

越往西开，逐渐云散，露出了蓝天。

蓝天映照湖面，立刻就变得非常好看：

湖面，明显是青蓝色的了：

到了黑马河。

景区不要门票，只收摆渡车的车费（来回20元）。凭江苏身份证，车费免费（应该是因为江苏点对点扶贫援建当地）。哈哈，感觉赚了几个亿：

终于到了湖边，感觉超赞！

湖水很凉，有很多海鸥：

感觉像到了海边：

湖心岛，不知道是不是盐：

很多人会安排在黑马河镇过夜（湖边住帐篷，或者住在镇里），然后看日出。应该会很美。

蓝不蓝？我想起了台湾垦丁的太平洋海面：

湖边的宗教建筑：

人不多：

经幡：

 橡皮山

离开黑马河镇之后，就开始向茶卡镇前进：

从黑马河到茶卡，需要翻过橡皮山：

山非常贫瘠，只有草，没有树：

橡皮山，海拔3817米：

高原反应会有点明显，需要注意。

垭口有一个休息点，类似服务区。休息点有卖藏药的帐篷，里面全是托。

据马师傅介绍，之所以叫做橡皮山，是因为路面很软，司机开车觉得一弹一弹的，像开在橡皮上。

下山的路：

云真的很漂亮，天空湛蓝无比：

有些照片是隔着车窗玻璃拍的，会有偏色和反光：

一路风景，令人心旷神怡：

 茶卡镇

翻过橡皮山之后，就逐渐接近茶卡镇。

路上，可以看到大量的发电风车：

茶卡、德令哈、大柴旦一线，都属于柴达木盆地。

盆地看似贫瘠，其实地下都是宝藏（矿产），被称为“祖国聚宝盆”：

这边很少云了，彻底是蓝天：

云都在山那边，在青海湖那边：

还是大片的风车：

我觉得非常壮观：

到了茶卡镇。一个非常小的镇子，几乎全是酒店和餐饮。

茶卡镇的夕阳：

好了，这一天结束！以下是当天整个行程路线：

下一篇，是茶卡盐湖、大柴旦了哈！敬请期待！

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（第二篇 日月山、青海湖、黑马河镇）

强乳油3573西宁市三和宾馆经纬度 -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 北纬N36°37′0.30″ 东经E101°48′0.43″ 靠近:西宁共和路66号 三和商务宾馆 参考:青海省西宁市城东区东关大街街道

强乳油3573青海省有哪些寺院 -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 青海主要的寺庙(院): 1、西宁市、海东市:塔尔寺、北禅寺、南禅寺、佑宁寺、乐都瞿坛寺、平安夏宗寺、街子清真寺、化隆夏琼寺 2、黄南藏族自治州:隆务寺、南宗尼姑寺、曲格寺、隆务清真寺、吾屯上.

强乳油3573从青海西宁寄包裹到长沙要几天?如何计费? -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 邮局: 大概呀十天左右,按每500克7元钱算 加上挂号3元 保价:保100收1元计算 特快公司: 价格一样 可能回快点 但是没有能保证安全

强乳油3573现在是6月,成都到青海湖怎么走比较方便,我只有3天时间,怎么安排行程比较合理,求经验解答 -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 第一天(7月24日): 出发时间:08:00 路线:成都-绵阳-江油-平武-川主寺-若尔盖 (1)这段时间四川都多暴雨,害怕路上塌方,所以一直没敲定走哪条线路,不过初步的意向是走绵阳-广元- 棋盘关-宁强-汉中-留坝-凤县-徽县-江洛-天水-兰州-西...

强乳油3573青海省西宁市湟中县共和镇上直沟村邮编是什么?
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 青海省西宁市湟中县共和镇上直沟村邮编是811605

强乳油3573西宁市西湖宾馆距离东关清真大寺多远,几路公交车到达? -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 西宁市西湖宾馆距离东关清真大寺全程5.9公里,自驾10分钟到达,途径:八一路、大众街.也可在金汇路中站乘坐10路车,在北小街口站下车.

强乳油3573西宁市城北区三期派出所电话是多少
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 西宁市公安局城北区分局三其派出所位于三其路19号,联系电话为:5218941

强乳油3573青海西宁臧民会不会无端打人 -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 现在西宁治安很好了,藏民朋友们也都挺友善的,不过建议晚上还是不要到偏僻地段或者酒吧、夜店等地,如果遇上酒鬼滋事之类的,那就说不好了~

强乳油3573青海省西宁市玉树州藏族自治州是南方人还是北方人 -
庄宙芳18868499461 ______ 呵呵,青海省属于中国的西北五省其中的一个省份.而西宁市玉树州藏族自治州肯定是属于北方了这里的人也就是北方人啦!