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clean是什么工厂

来源:baiyundou.net   日期:2024-08-07

还记得两年前风靡一时的「Vibe」吗?现在它似乎「改头换面」,回到最初的「Clean Fit」名称,继续成为时下潮青们最喜欢的风格;而 Vintage Carhartt,热度更是一路水涨船高,成为这股风潮下的「领跑单品」。

成立超百年的 Carhartt,从最初的「工人必备」,到上世纪 90 年代经过 Hip Hop 文化的发酵后,成功打入年轻人市场。再到近年来,不论是大热 Gallery DEPT、Better With Age 等改制单位,或是各路明星、icon 的频繁加持,令其更广泛的人群所熟悉,Carhartt 可谓真真正正地实现了「阶级跨越」。

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Better With Age 改造作品

以 YE 为例,Carhartt 单品似乎陪伴了其职业生涯的每一个阶段;而近来,Vintage Carhartt 更是成为其穿搭中的「必备单品」,一件沾满墨点的棕红色拉链卫衣几乎陪伴了他一个月,无论是单穿,还是作为内层与皮衣相搭,这对于上年花超过 400 万美元购买 Balenciaga 来 YE 说,实属罕见。

随后这股热潮在更多人身上得到了体现;从 Travis Scott、Sean Wotherspoon、Justin Bieber 到 Hailey Bieber、Kaia Gerber 等以好品味著称的「顶流辣妹」;就连 A$AP Rocky 和 Rihanna 官宣怀孕时,也出现了 Vintage Carhartt 的身影。

另一方面,Carhartt 庞大的「档案库」,不仅成为一众 Vintage 爱好者的福音,更为后来不少品牌提供了「灵感源泉」。近年来,以 Carhartt 经典型号「DETROIT JACKET」为蓝本,融入自己的巧思,已成不少品牌的惯用招数,其中也不乏精彩案例。

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Balenciaga

DETROIT JACKET

于 1954 年首次发布的「DETROIT JACKET」绝对算得上是 Carhartt 最经典的单品,其几乎包揽了当下二级市场上 Vintage Carhartt 的半壁江山。「DETROIT JACKET」以产地、内衬等因素分为 J97、J01、6BLJ、J0001 等多种型号;以常见的 J97 为例,至今共推出了 21 种颜色,同时,上世纪不少工厂、单位等会拿来定制当员工服、因此 Vintage J97 上不同的刺绣也成为玩家在淘货时的乐趣所在。

MICHIGAN COAT

以 Carhartt 故乡命名的「MICHIGAN COAT」,同样是品牌经典系列之一。「MICHIGAN COAT」采用三重缝合接缝工艺,结实牢固,诠释真正意义上的「一件传三代」。

ACTIVE JACKET

作为 Carhartt 三大系列之一,Rocky 同款「ACTIVE JACKET」同样值得注意。 「ACTIVE JACKET」坚固而不僵硬,还带有一个附加的可调节兜帽。常见的型号有 J140、J130、J25 等等,帆布、牛仔等材质,及独特图案的法兰绒内衬,都是入手时考察的因素。

此外,Carhartt 更是演变出「时尚分身」-- Carhartt WIP(Work in Progress)。相较主线的「粗旷」形象,WIP 支线则提供了更广泛的品类以及更优良的做工;同时,积极地与各大品牌联动,不断丰富品牌形象,进一步扩张品牌在年轻人心目中的影响力。以即将发售的 Marni x Carhartt Uniqlo 为例,将 Marni 标志性的花卉图案融入工装款式当中,十分有趣,不少玩家已翘首以盼等待入手。

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而在 Vintage Carhartt 夹克水涨船高的当下,不少玩家则开始挖掘其「平替」。同为老牌,与 Carhartt 有着相同工装属性的 Ben Davis 和 Dickies 则成为大家的首选;近来十分火热的「双膝裤」等 Clean Fit 单品,都能这两家以十分不错的价格购入。

Dickies 85283、874等裤型被封为「新一代神裤」;其次,YE 在 Met Gala 上身过的 TJ15 拉链夹克,也在二级市场上有着不俗的销量。其次,Dickies 还是不折不扣的「联名大户」,接连与 Saint Michael、N Hoolywood 等单位合作,而近期又爆出与 Hysteric Glamour 的全新合作,拉满期待值。

而 Carhartt 热门的型号,你几乎都能在 Ben Davis 中找到相似的款式。虽然大多为全新品,但入手后经历一番打磨穿出自己的味道也是不错的选择。

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爆款预定?「工装夹克」成为时下最热 Clean Fit 单品

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