作者：NeverGone琛哥

很久没发内容了，这次来随意输出一下

首先是做视频的体会。视频这玩意对于我来说真挺费劲的，主要流程是：

前期文案修改——拍摄A Roll——找素材剪辑B Roll——处理声音+找BGM——渲染导出

其中最费事的就是找素材剪辑了，我做视频有点强迫症，比较追求内容逻辑与视觉效果的和谐结合，所以经常一晚上只剪了1分钟，每个视频前后都弄了几个月。

图文就不一样了，花1个小时拍照修好图，然后想写的时候输出一下，后期改改错字就能发布了，基本上，一篇文章一天可以搞定。

一天VS几个月，所以还是时不时发点图文吧

这次来记录一下最近入手的一些靴子，品牌比较广泛，有些是新鞋开箱，有些是旧鞋改造，有些是已经穿过了写写感受。因为数量比较多，所以就没法像之前的长文那么详细了。

阅读顺序是先文后图

2015年购入了Red Wing 9016 Beckman，已由当初的全新变为如今的沧桑

沿条颜色加深，皮面褶皱定型，外加各种磨损

由于这鞋一直顶脚踝，而且内底梆硬，每次6000步就开始疼了（其他鞋能16000步以上），所以穿着频率逐渐趋于消失

想着穿着也不多，不如拿去改造玩一玩，于是去东莞找了老朋友鞋神，顺便逛了下工厂

我自己亲手拆掉了这双7年的RW

接着，鞋神厂里的师傅用001楦重新绷楦，放入乳胶填充，使用原色沿条+棕色皮底+米白色DrSole半掌底，形成了一种三明治结构，个人感觉整体效果还挺和谐的

喜欢扁头的效果，所以去掉了前港宝支撑

这个是我找鞋神改的第3双鞋了（之前还改过Alden），改造费用1000，改完之后001楦大军又多了一员，脚感比之前好了太多，总之非常香（整个过程拍了视频，在剪辑了不要慌）

其实一直对登山靴这类款式没啥兴趣，总感觉丑萌丑萌的。但耐不住小红书经常刷到山脉之光，看久了反而觉得还可以，就像一首歌听久了才觉得好听一样，于是尝试一波。

Danner这双是很经典很常见的登山靴造型，型号是31528。不少电影里面都有山脉之光的出现。使用Danner上面很常见的单外线Stitchdown工艺，将比较厚的油皮与Vibram防滑大底缝制在一起。结合防水透气的GoreTex内衬，户外属性挺强的了

皮料是油蜡充足的牛皮，比较好打理，有点划痕啥的刷刷就不明显了。密度还不错，穿了几次能预感到以后的旧化效果不会差

因为是类似短脸靴那种有很多鞋带孔的设计，所以能很方便的调整贴合度，即便是宽脚+高脚背也能很轻松调整到自己觉得舒服的程度，何况国内的Danner宽度大多给的EE，可以说适合绝大部分人的脚型了

脚感的话，轻松胜过手里绝大部分靴子。在工装靴里面算比较弹的了，但没有自带鞋垫的Danner那么弹，可以自己通过袜子+喜欢的鞋垫来改善脚感

这双我感觉还算比较好搭的，反正工装裤和原牛肯定不容易出错，色系和款式都是比较常见的组合了

版型设计与之前开的一双John Lobb Burrow如出一辙，做工细节也是一致，只不过换了皮料，然后我自己换了扁蜡鞋带

依旧用的7000楦+厚的EVA大底，带来了软弹的脚感

皮料为一种打蜡翻毛皮，跟CFStead的Waxy Commander油蜡指挥官挺像的，不论正面还是反面都挺像，也许用的就是这个皮了

这双靴子自带旧化效果，一到手就很咔叽

虽然John Lobb不做工装靴，但这种糙靴子还挺好玩的，目前穿久了磨损之后更合我口味了

红色咔叽4件套

皮革柔糯，审美和谐，做工规整，脚感软弹，价格合理（特卖3000+

总结：香

这个牌子历史非常久，有好几百年了，但目前没啥知名度，命途坎坷，中途几经易手，现在是属于Brooks Brothers，然而布克兄弟也快不行了。。。

这个牌子曾经由北安普顿很多品牌代工，这双马臀是Crockett&Jones做的，使用很常见的霍尔文8号色酒红马臀皮，240楦，版型类似自家的Coniston靴子。因为是给美国品牌代工，所以尺码标准用的是US美码，这双是US8D，挺合脚的。

鞋舌也是用的马臀，但是铲薄了，不然舒适度就捉急了

做工细节就是CJ的普线水准了，穿出来的褶子也很普通。这双定价1100美金，感觉还挺合理。嗯，全靠同行衬托。。。

接下来又是一双CJ。觉得这款马靴的闭合方式比较独特，所以冲了

这个型号在CJ官网上找不到，应该是日本代理找CJ单独下的订单，

马靴这种靴子，设计的初衷就是用来随便糙穿的

这双皮革为打蜡的黑色翻毛皮，配合常用的Dainite橡胶底，将这种随意糙穿的特性拉满了

马靴我感觉设计都差不多的，主要在闭合方式上做一些差异，算上这双CJ，目前手里有3双马靴了。闭合方式分别是这样：

John Lobb Jodhpur II

Meermin Jodhpur

嗯，马靴估计就到此为止了，因为有个针扣，所以穿起来比切尔西费事很多，以后不会再买。

这双货源是老佛爷专柜，所以鞋底的价格标签很夸张，标了个9999，现在这行情，真有人这个价买吗。。。反正我是4500入的，虽然不算很低的折扣但感觉也可以了

拿到手就是Guidi马皮那熟悉的味道，应该是结合了马骚味+鞣剂+油脂+后处理各种东西的混合味道吧，这个气味非常有辨识度，跟我那件Guidi马后身皮衣的气味一模一样。

同时，我在一些买手店里摸的Guidi也都是这个味，所以我觉得Guidi的东西还挺好鉴别的。真的假不了，假的真不了

这个面皮比较薄，然后非常软，整只鞋子比较轻，真皮大底也比较薄，对于穿惯了工装的人来说完全不存在磨合了

楦型的话属于主观，如果觉得不好看我也不会买，大家自己看图就可以了。水洗马皮就是这种见仁见智的独特质感了，我个人挺喜欢

之前有大佬@伽利略Hodor拆过Guidi，鞋子的大部分部件都尽可能的使用了真皮，比如港宝和填充物。再就是内底进行了起墙开槽，没有像固特异那样贴布条，所以正常穿着的话Guidi的耐用度不用担心。但是这个皮真的比较薄，意外的大力我觉得是有可能搞破的

其余做工细节啥的我觉得挺一般的，买之前我通过仔细查看大图的云评测就知道了

总之，为风格买单吧

为了体验把白靴穿成黄靴，所以买了这双印象中只有妹子才会购入的款式。。。但鞋盒上很清楚的写着210M，M代表男款

这双货源是意大利精品集合网站Coltorti，使用Guidi自家的白色全粒面马皮，时间久了会变黄

做工细节啥的跟上面的Guidi 115大差不差

拉链顺滑好拉，试了下脚感还蛮好的，非常轻便

强尼的包装在国产里属于相当用心的，鞋盒、布袋都很有质感，之前的几双是黑色鞋盒，这双用了橄榄色鞋盒，持续好评

这双是霍尔文橄榄绿Waxed Flesh翻毛封蜡皮，简称腊肉。新的时候比较光亮，随着穿着剐蹭使得蜡层脱落，翻毛会起立，最终形成对比强烈的咔叽效果

工艺为手缝沿条，所以价格比店里普款贵一点，结实度更加不用担心

单外线，针距就是工装靴上的常见水准了，不密但是整齐而且弧度贴合

鞋头用了真皮港宝，个人很喜欢这种比较软比较扁的感觉

鞋底是类似Itshide的Ridgeway那种形状，回弹还不错

这双是报数据做的，所以合脚满分，包裹度挺好，脚感蛮扎实的，足弓顶的位置也刚好

目前已经有一些磨损了，期待更加显眼的旧化效果

去年买了双Meermin Waxy Shell Cordovan油蜡马臀靴子

穿了几个月，旧化成了这样

这双本身的配置就是Commando橡胶大底，已经比较有工装的感觉了。但是Meermin的鞋楦和传统工装牌子还是区别挺明显的，作为一个喜欢折腾的人，就拿去给履诚进行改造了

这次是把原鞋全部拆除只剩鞋面和内衬，然后全手工改造

操作过程：

植鞣皮内底泡水软化，缠到足弓支撑楦上定型，为相应足弓的脚型提供更好的支撑感

拆除Meermin神秘油蜡马臀的大底、沿条、内底、港宝

内底手工开槽，使用一块皮革填平足弓部位，刷硬化剂

处理前后真皮港宝，替换掉原来的热熔胶港宝

手工绷楦，使用履诚自己开发的工装楦，比较老味

手缝沿条内线，更加传统，更加结实，耐久力满分

丝瓜络+软木填充，放加强勾心，植鞣皮中底，DrSole橡胶半底

手缝外线，堆植鞣革后跟，打磨曲根

期间若干次涂胶，进烘箱，捶打定型，打钉

最后磨边，后处理

改完以后就是很工装很复古老味的感觉了，因为做了内底塑形，所以足弓支撑感很到位

一共花费1200+，价格良心，整体效果非常满意

接下来又需要多次着用，重新定型内底了，相当于重新旧化一双“新鞋”

这是MTO的一双，用了Vintage Oak小牛皮+绿色牛皮内衬，1650刀的定价应该是本文所有靴子里最高的了

这双是很传统的Balmoral款式，鞋楦为MH71方头楦，做工皮料以及整体审美可以的，绿色内衬有点骚

正装的靴子总感觉比较精致，没法像工装那样放开去随便穿，但总感觉“我可以不穿，但不能没有”。嗯，本人深陷复古消费主义陷阱了。

我觉得消费主义就是在某个领域内，诱骗你不断交学费。很多领域，每个人只能自己交完学费当了大怨种才会有认知上的提升。

鞋子的话，审美设计风格是主观的，没法评判，看上哪个买哪个就完事了，没必要捧一踩一。但做工皮料细节的好坏是有客观评价标准的，我之前输出的大量内容，已经提供很多例子了。多把图片放大仔细看，认真对比各部位的细节、规则程度、皮料表现等等，就能很容易的知道这些客观参数的好坏。这类客观的东西，不会随着部分人主观的评价而有所改变。

反正鞋子这种结构简单、影响要素不多的东西，我个人感觉是很容易玩明白的（嗯我就是最大的键盘侠）。目前工装这个领域，我总结下来就是“玩的就是牌子”。追求小圈子里的认可度，玩个自嗨。很多东西实际上就那么回事，只不过我们玩的是物料人工成本占比较多的一个品类罢了。

觉得能对单一领域保持长期的热忱、频繁输出内容真的是一件非常难的事情，本来玩自媒体就是兴趣使然，如果哪天对鞋子失去兴趣我感觉也很正常，就像我之前对摄影HiFi等兴趣弱化一样。

总之，不论玩什么最重要的是过程。本次就记录到这里，大家中秋愉快~

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JL CJ GG Danner Guidi等）

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