Balenciaga最知晓怎么“吊”起观众的胃口。
这一次冬季24发布之前，Balenciaga就已经开始「整活儿」了，创意总监Demna Gvasalia亲自从ebay上挑选一件二手物品当做邀请函寄给来看秀的人们，这些物品包括但不限于眼镜、动物摆件、蝴蝶结挂饰、水晶球......而这些独一无二的物品正是代表着一个又一个未知的故事，Demna Gvasalia希望通过这样的方式，激发人们对它们背后故事的想象，从而让这些物品拥有“第二次生命”。
国内前往Balenciaga秀场看秀的有周笔畅、杨超越以及孙千，她们分别穿着24秋季男装Bomber搭配廓形衬衫与绒面靴以及24夏季的褶皱斗篷连衣裙和贴身紧身裙，三人分别演绎出了不同的“巴味”，用现在的话来说便是“中式巴味”。
除此之外，Balenciaga代言人PP Krit、Isabelle Huppert、Kim Kardashian，以及Adut Akech、Ashley Graham、Cole Sprouse、Eliza Douglas、Renata Litvinova等人也纷纷到场看秀，群星荟萃的现场可以说为这一次冬季24系列的举办地荣军院增添了不一样的色彩。
ebay作为国外最为知名的二手平台之一，Balenciaga这一次直接与ebay“联名”，将这一次的“二手”主题发挥到了极致，于是乎你能看到ebay的字眼就如同联名的形式一样出现在廓形Polo衫、加长针织高领、运动拉链夹克等单品之上，这种最直白的设计，能够让人一目了然Demna Gvasalia的目的。
而这种“二手”时髦除了用最直白的设计语言体现之外，还有例如用胶带在西装上缠绕、有破洞与撕扯痕迹的“丝袜”鞋、拉链夹克上随处可见的褶皱痕迹、大衣上的做旧细节等等，这些让人看似是“二手”的痕迹，其实都是Demna Gvasalia在这一次大秀中所运用的独特语言。
将这种语言提升到极致的单品例如由三件连帽衫再造升级成一件的连衣裙，位于最底部的连帽衫经过倒转，将衣袖巧妙地变为美人鱼尾式裙摆；由数十件内衣堆砌而成的礼服同样也是大秀中不可忽略的一件单品，当中具有多种颜色与材质的内衣就像是Demna Gvasalia给予当下时尚圈的一记重击，让人思考二手与时尚之间的联系，以及拼接的蕾丝长裙单品也同样如此。
在极致之外，Demna Gvasalia在细节处也并没有“放弃”输出，你能在模特所穿着的衣服背面或是包袋上看到Balenciaga的吊牌挂件，这种看似与全新单品的吊牌并无二异的挂件，其实在材质方面有一定的区别，“全新单品”的既视感与“二手”元素在视觉上有着强烈的冲击。
除了这些“二手”元素之外，其他单品上依旧是我们熟悉的“巴味”——例如亮片晚礼服裙、豹纹皮草大衣、廓形垫肩西装、羽绒服等单品，但别忘了之前Demna Gvasalia曾说过，自己将会着重于衣服本身这一句话，尽管看着是熟悉，但却有许多“暗道”。
这些“暗道”在秀场上的体现还有便是一些西装、大衣、双肩包等单品被做成了上衣、连衣裙、半裙等单品，从正面看，这些单品像是模特与衣服“贴”在一起，但实际上换个角度看，它便是另一番天地。
在鞋履方面，平底德比鞋、过膝靴子、配有夸张蝴蝶结的拖鞋、一体式长靴等单品也都具有强烈的Demna Gvasalia个人色彩。
配饰与包袋上，遮面式太阳眼镜配以单模注塑醋酯材质与耳孔；冷帽可以遮住双眼，但不会完全阻隔视觉；装在手镯上的手机保护壳可以完全解放双手；被称为“爱马仕平替”的Rodeo手袋在这一次加入了尺寸与细节上的改变，更方便日常使用；Essex手袋加入新版“B”字母挂饰，配合蟒纹、鳄纹等压印图案或内衬。
「奢侈品是什么？什么是时装？时装为何如此重要？我的工作为谁而做？时装足够有意义吗？在一个内容过载的世界，有什么是足够有意义的东西吗？什么才算是足够有意义？真正重要的不一定是找到答案，而在于提出问题的思考过程。」
这是这一次Balenciaga冬季24系列之前Demna Gvasalia向大众发送的一条语音消息。
在执掌品牌第十年之际，他已经完全在人们心中树立了一个独一无二的形象，在创造力成为稀缺资源的时代中，他还是不断向市场输送新的灵感，同时又能用时装与人们进行沟通，让人们产生对生活各个方面的思考，这对于设计时装本身会更有意义。
「Balenciaga是极其注重创意价值的品牌，我想通过这场发布秀将它的往昔与未来联结起来。首先是在Cristóbal Balenciaga作品的直接启发下诞生的廓形和主题，然后转入对时装概念的进一步探索。」
将独特的个人美学融合品牌过往的辉煌历史，你可以说今年是Demna Gvasalia是执掌Balenciaga的第十年，但更应该说今年是他「驾驭」品牌的第十年，而这个数字想必一定会变得更大。
作者：Johnny Wai
编辑：周杨
排版：元勋
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罗瑞弯1578儿歌听妈妈将过去的事情词曲作者是谁
郦潘舒13690469174 ______ 《听妈妈讲那过去的故事》是抒情性的少年叙事歌曲,是几代儿童久唱不衰的优秀作... 词只改了一个字,就是＂妈妈却穿着破烂的烂衣裳＂中的＂破＂,改为＂蒌＂(音)...
罗瑞弯1578形容一件东西本已破烂但是修修补补还继续凑和用的成语是什么? -
郦潘舒13690469174 ______ 你好,很高兴回答你的问题我想了想可以是【牵萝补屋】:客观条件差就将就凑合.【将陋就简】:条件差就按条件差的情况办事,比喻将就着用.
罗瑞弯1578短褐穿结,箪瓢屡空,晏如也.这句话什么意思? -
郦潘舒13690469174 ______ [译文]短短的粗麻布衣服破破烂烂的,缝缀补绽着;常常没有吃的没有喝的,但心里很坦然. 表现出作者洒脱不羁,开朗乐观,虽生活贫困,但安然自若,志趣高洁,超然物外.
