作者：嬉游

我发现在北京要想把“街”逛明白真的太难了。

前段时间去玩，北京朋友推荐我一定要去东四走走，说是最近年轻人扎堆的地。

那我肯定是直接导航东四咯，下地铁就是一条南北贯通的大街，20分钟走完，胡同呢？老建筑呢？鸽子呢？

在微信上一顿质问，我气势汹汹。“东四是一个片区啊，拥有北京最大的胡同群之一，你到底怎么走的？”朋友也很懵逼。

认了，是我功课没做到位，回酒店就立马恶补，第二天暴走3w步可算是把这片给走明白了。

先讲讲东四。明代时期这地方建有一座牌楼，因为位于皇城东侧，故称东四牌楼，后牌楼被拆除，但东四作为地名一直沿用。

现代意义上的东四泛指东四南大街、东四北大街、东四西大街、朝阳门内大街交会处及附近地区，范围其实很大，一篇讲完不太实际。

今天主要想带大家走走比较精华的一段。以东四北大街为中轴线，深入东西两侧的胡同群，这里不仅文物院落数不胜数，浓缩着京城的风貌与历史，也吸引着越来越多气质独特的小店们注入年轻活力。

北京的胡同很容易陷入一个尴尬的境地，要么太年轻商业，要么太纯粹没有吸引力，而东四找到了其中的平衡点。

寺庙里蹦迪看展、百年四合院中观古鉴今、名人旧居内听街坊们拉家常...以一种非常规的方式去重塑胡同，新与旧，尺度拿捏的正好。

东四片区按胡同走蛮容易迷路的，我直接拎几家值得去的小店，以此串联，也方便大家导航。3条citywalk路线带你玩转东四！

无胡同，不北京

东侧胡同

地铁：东四站

路线：东四胡同博物馆-Mēr coffee-Siphon house虹吸咖啡店-大宇宙-1/4ONE QUARTER

东四北大街东侧，平行排列着十四条胡同，其中三条至八条是全国首批“历史文化保护区”，形成于元代，严格遵循了大街24步、小巷12步的规制建造，如果用上帝视角俯视，大概就像棋盘一样规整。

三条至八条也是名人旧居比较丰富的区域，历史上这里曾经居住有众多皇亲国戚、文人墨客、富甲商贾。

穿梭在胡同里，你现在看到的民宅，其实曾经是车郡王府，是晚清格格的家，是老洋行恒昌瑞记，是张学良的外宅，不夸张，真的是砖砌的历史。（可惜只能在外面看看，不能进去参观哦）

这一片的小店会以咖啡馆居多，几乎每家都有外摆位。于是常常会有我这边端着咖啡拍照，对面爷爷在喂鸽子的画面出现，啊~这迷人的冲突感。（我还在这里听到了鸽哨，人生第一次！）

不想走回头路的话，建议以Z字形走，直接看地图比电子导航有用。

第一站我建议先去东四胡同博物馆，在这里你能对东四胡同群有个非常全面的了解。

东四胡同博物馆在一座四合院里，非常典型的三进式，现代艺术装置与传统建筑融合，不显突兀反而强调了美感。

博物馆共分五个展区，空间不大，主要就是告诉大家东四胡同的历史和文化，通过多媒体还原了老底子生活的模样，30min能逛完。我觉得亮点主要还是在建筑本身，令人惊叹。

注意开馆时间是周一、周三、周五，9:00-12:00/14:00-17:00，无需预约无需门票，直接去就可以~

Mēr coffee，这个店名当时猜了很久要怎么念，结果咖啡师说就是牛叫那个mer~~~，跟店里温暖的风格完全不搭耶好嘛！

本来是想去喝特调的，可惜碰上换菜单，只供常规类。点了杯拿铁，咖啡师是我很喜欢的风格，会认真介绍豆子分享理念，冲这态度出品也必然是优秀的。

旁边就是Siphon house虹吸咖啡，我每次去北京都会喝。专做虹吸咖啡的店不多，能做精做好喝的更是凤毛菱角。

他家光是豆单就有十几种选择，每款都有贴心标注风味。

咖啡的萃取过程也很有仪式感，像在做什么精密实验。我个人不喜酸，所以比起手冲更偏爱虹吸咖啡的厚重感。

如果你担心苦，一定要搭配一份他家自制的达克瓦兹，值得一个中国人对甜品的最高评价“不甜”。

白天是咖啡馆，晚上17:30之后这里就会变成精酿店，由大宇宙Great Cosmos接手吧台。

老板非常专业是一件加分的事，对我这种精酿小白来说。

如果你也跟我一样对墙上标注的风味实在云里雾里，大胆提出试喝请求，都是年轻人不尴尬，搞不好唠唠就成朋友了呢~

1/4ONE QUARTER有阵子蛮出圈的，因为一杯「老北京污」，但其实就是正常dirty啦，只是名字实在接地气。

他家特调不错的，这次喝了杯「山丹丹那个红艳艳」，用的埃塞俄比亚夏橙冷萃搭配山楂树莓，浓郁的果汁感，偏酸，非常适合夏天的款！

西侧胡同

地铁：中国美术馆站

路线：中国美术馆-铁手咖啡制造总局-布衣古书局-隆福寺-酷乐唱片-NEST巢空间

东四北大街的西侧胡同群，其名字和背后的故事很值得专门拿出来说说。

轿子胡同，因清光绪时这里居住着众多轿夫故而得名；钱粮胡同以前是造币局所在地；南阳胡同以前叫扁担胡同，因其连通南、北两条胡同而寓其义...诸如此类的趣闻很多，逛街体验upup！

和东侧胡同群不同，西侧胡同群艺术气质超群，各大剧院、美术馆、演艺空间扎堆，值得N刷。

这条线我建议大家从中国美术馆开始，它是中国唯一的国家造型艺术博物馆，门前的馆额还是由毛泽东题写。

我上次不凑巧，赶上他们闭馆筹备60周年大展。如果你们有近期去北京的打算，一定要去看啊，除了有中国美术馆自己压箱底的宝贝，还有来自故宫、南京博物院、四川省博等的展品。

苏东坡、唐寅、齐白石、徐悲鸿、安迪·沃霍尔、巴勃罗·毕加索、大卫·霍克尼、鲁道夫·豪斯纳...全是名画真迹，关键还免费！即日起-7月2日，提前在“中国美术馆”公众号上预约即可！

美术馆往前走就是南阳共享际，这里自六七十年代就已经做汇报演出场地使用了，现在算是一个多元空间吧。有剧院有咖啡馆有小酒吧，业态丰富。

大名鼎鼎的亚洲TOP50咖啡馆—铁手咖啡制造总局的总店就在这。

北京的每家铁手风格都不同，这家有点工厂的感觉，流线形的咖啡吧台后面，有透明的烘焙间，吧台上也放着各种瓶瓶罐罐，仿佛这里每天都在做咖啡实验。

铁手家的豆子，都是自己烘的，有好几款供选择。这家还有提供all day brunch，小资腔调很足。

铁手旁边有一家布衣古书局，在独立书店圈蛮出名的。主理人“胡同”收藏售卖古籍近20年，因此也在江湖上得了个“胡局”的尊称。

店里除了一些线装古籍及影印本外，四只猫猫也是一道亮丽的风景线，每天准点上下班，乖巧等撸。

这幢楼的天台还藏着一家早C晚A的「乐园」，一般剧院散场后，生意会比较好。

出来往隆福寺走。隆福寺是个有点神奇的存在，早在明清时期，隆福寺真的只是个寺，供香火，办庙会。

等到80年代，庙会成了百货大楼，“隆福寺”成了北京最繁华的商圈之一。后来因为一场大火，沉寂二十多年，如今终于又有了再度翻红的趋势。

我们现在说的“隆福寺”，其实更像是一个园区，依托隆福大厦向四周辐射。

隆福大厦，共9层，有咖啡馆书店甜品店以及各种餐饮，是商场同时也是写字楼，最不能错过的亮点在其位于九楼天台的隆福寺。

这座“空中”庭院，红砖黄瓦，松树红墙，看着倒有些故宫的设计韵味在。视野也不错，能眺望西山。

不过开放时间着实不友好，只有举办活动时才能上去，大家可以关注“北京隆福寺”公众号，经常会有走秀、画展、音乐live等在此举办，应该会是新奇的体验。

隆福大厦周边的区域则大部分都是老建筑改造而来，部分空间有青山周平参与设计，审美在线。

原先这里有家木木美术馆，最近租约到期不开了，建议有活动的时候来，可玩性更高。

胡同讲完，私心再推荐两家附近的店。

有近千张CD和黑胶售卖的酷乐唱片，老板是个特地道的北京人，看看店里的音乐风格盲猜80后。

宝藏很多，不少都是首版、珍藏版，值得认真淘淘！

另一家NEST巢空间，如果大家纠结晚上去哪儿耍，可以来这看开放麦。

这里是猫头鹰喜剧的场子，水准还不错的，直接在点评上搜“NEST巢空间”，戳进去就有表演场次和购买链接。

咖啡&酒也都安排到位哦~

东四北大街主路

地铁：张自忠站

路线：SALTY ICE PLUS Cafe-稻香村零号店-胖妹面庄-雍和宫

东四北大街就是我最开头逛的那条街，虽然比起胡同少了点韵味，但这大街笔直通向雍和宫，有名的国子监街、五道营胡同等都在周边，算是一条比较实用的citywalk路线。

SALTY ICE PLUS Cafe最近风挺大，靠着可可爱爱的鼹鼠logo俘获了一众时髦精的心。

据说是一帮律师开的，所以咖啡特调和鸡尾酒名字尽是些“梗”，「显示公苹」「岁寒三友 我没喝酒」「法无禁止即自由」...你要是带着律师证来还能打折哈哈哈~

如果要买伴手礼的话，可以去稻香村零号店，这条街上有很多稻香村，一定认准零号店，反正门口排长队的就是。

你们在网上看到那种很精致漂亮礼盒装的，只有在这家店才买得到。

区别是零号店的糕点都是当日现烤，花头更多，想款式齐全一定早上来，实话说，味道不错的，特别是咸口款！

连续三年登上米其林必比登推荐榜的胖妹面庄，人均60+，服务堪比小面界的海底捞，发冰贴发雨伞送水，生怕排队客人们等不舒服

建议开餐前半小时来取号，等第一波进去用餐比较快。

我点了豌杂面，肉酱很良心，豌豆炖得很软烂，除了油大整体口味还是和重庆当地比较靠近的。（别问为什么要在北京吃重庆小面，问就是来都来了）

如果不排队，来碗面+冰粉还是很舒坦的。

再往前走就是雍和宫啦，雍和宫周边的胡同之前写过蛮齐全的，我放在文末相关阅读，有需要可戳。

///

最后照例，东四怎么玩帮大家总结在下面。所有地点我也都标注在地图里了，可以戳阅读原文查看。

北京Citywalk

 东四北大街东侧胡同

东四胡同博物馆

Mēr coffee

Siphon house虹吸咖啡店

大宇宙

1/4ONE QUARTER

东四北大街西侧胡同

中国美术馆

铁手咖啡

布衣古书局

隆福寺

酷乐唱片

NEST巢空间

东四北大街

SALTY ICE PLUS Cafe

稻香村零号店

胖妹面庄

雍和宫

相关阅读：

怎么办？我被这些胡同困在北京回不来！

没想到，咖啡馆数量上海第一，她排第二

这可能是今年最“红”的打卡路线！

阅读更多国内度假精彩内容，可前往什么值得买查看

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明温娴1733如何游览北京的胡同游是怎样的价格多少
焦印背19256113456 ______ 我感觉最好不要坐车,如果有朋友的话不如自己骑车溜达一圈,比如后海周围,可以看看后海的酒吧,在地安门附近可以看看胡同的历史,那里有很多经典的四合院,有的还有悠久的历史,

明温娴1733有谁知道北京哪里的胡同最好玩啊?顺便告诉一下地址.谢谢! -
焦印背19256113456 ______ 感觉南锣鼓巷很不错,去过很多次了,有一些有特色的小店,胡同很多,感觉很好.地址的话,它贯穿地安门大街和平安大街,可以坐地铁五号线,地铁张自忠路A出来,沿平安大街往西走,路北.当然做公交也很方便,具体做哪路车,根据你所在位置,百度地图一下就知道了.

明温娴1733北京哪个胡同最好玩儿 -
焦印背19256113456 ______ 1、 南锣鼓巷,又名南锣古巷,有着北京保护最完整的四合院区.胡同与元大都同期建成,至今已有700余年的历史.因其地势中间高、南北低,如一驼背人,故名罗锅巷.到了清朝改称南锣鼓巷2、菊儿胡同,明朝属昭回靖恭坊,称局儿胡同.清朝属镶黄旗,乾隆时称桔儿胡同.清末又谐音作菊儿胡同,至今已有700余年的历史.

明温娴1733北京胡同文化游去哪好?什刹海,鼓楼怎样?有什么玩的? -
焦印背19256113456 ______ 胡同游,当然是去什刹海了,就是带你去各个胡同转转,说说这些胡同的文化.如果是外地的朋友还是可以去感受一次的,不过建议找个天气好的时候去,毕竟是露天坐三轮,就算现在有个毯子给你盖着,我想还是会冷吧.穿暖和了,带上相机,好好去感受一下吧.

明温娴1733去过的能跟我分享路线吗?十月份要去北京旅游,去过的能跟我分享路线
焦印背19256113456 ______ 1、天安门、故宫、景山公园(看个日落不错)、晚上后海、南锣鼓巷 2、前门步行街、大栅栏、天坛 3、长城(比较累,所以就不安排别的项目了,心有余力的可以去看看十三陵,都在一条线上) 4、北大、清华、鸟巢、水立方(都在北四环) 5、香山、植物园(两个公园挨着)或者去动物园和植物园或者动物园和香山(动物园有公交车直接到)

明温娴1733谁能提供北京自由行攻略?谁能提供北京自由行攻略!
焦印背19256113456 ______ 第一天 1天安门-1故宫-2景山公园-1北海公园-2后海酒吧街 第二天 1颐和园-2清华大学-1圆明园-2北京大学 第三天 1八达岭长城-1十三陵 第四天 1雍和宫-1国子监-3孔庙-3地...

明温娴1733北京哪些胡同比较好玩
焦印背19256113456 ______ 胡同,是北京特有的一种古老的城市小巷.在北京,胡同浩繁有几千条,他们围绕在紫禁城周围,大部分形成于中国历史上的元、明、清三个朝代. 一、胡同游(追循老北京的脚步) 游客在北海公园北门(后门)西侧100米左右的胡同游览出发...

明温娴1733北京胡同一日游详细线路及预算,要有特色且要有意思一点的. -
焦印背19256113456 ______ 现在胡同游就是后海那一带,还有南锣鼓巷,鼓楼那,现在胡同游就是一条胡同加北京特色,比如杂技和堂会,这都是老北京特色,去八大胡同走走也行,尤其看看...

明温娴1733胡同如何安排十月底北京三日游?十月底北京三日游.长城.天安门.胡
焦印背19256113456 ______ 第一天:天安门,故宫,北海,恭王府,什刹海第二天:天坛,前门大栅栏第三天:十三陵,居庸关长城不要去全聚德吃烤鸭,贵.去十三陵和长城要搞清公交车线路,要错开游人高峰.别参加街上喊的,发传单的一日游

明温娴1733胡同怎么安排十月底北京三日游?十月底北京三日游长城天安门胡
焦印背19256113456 ______ 您好😁 欢迎来北京旅游!建议线路如下: 第一天 长城 十三陵 前门大栅栏小吃 烤鸭 第二天 天安门 故宫 天坛 王府井 第三天 什刹海 恭王府 南锣鼓巷