夏天的美称
2022年的夏天{6月15日至28日}五人一部七座车,深度游历伊犁河谷和可可托海。由于跨越大,几乎经过了北疆每个县区。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0185354173288d07ff.jpg?size=750x757)
北疆14天行程结束后,我又一个人飞到喀什,跟随西藏司机经过叶城,开始了为期7天的新藏线行程。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ee6bec3d7171a210.jpg?size=750x624)
这个行程又基本上跨越了南疆每个县区,所以在新冠疫情防控期间,我的行程码密密麻麻,几乎走遍整个新疆,也走进了西藏阿里。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019bc99037319846a1.jpg?size=750x1624)
游完可可托海、额尔齐斯河大峡谷之后,我开始了走进西藏的路。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f20fa1c8a84ed298.jpg?size=750x1000)
“叶城县”位于新疆维吾尔自治区西南部,与巴基斯坦、印控克什米尔地区接壤,是一个边境县城。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0156730a4c802cc972.jpg?size=750x1257)
聚居着维吾尔、汉、哈萨克、回、柯尔克孜、蒙古、塔吉克、俄罗斯、乌孜别克等13个民族分布,其中维吾尔族占93%。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0140b02291a52f0e44.jpg?size=750x562)
素有“中国核桃之乡、石榴之乡、玉石之乡、歌舞之乡”的美称。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d307b311e2037cb2.jpg?size=750x562)
“叶城县”距今约2181年的历史,有些古建筑还是很有特色的。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013c173bdd81e1769d.jpg?size=750x580)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019f7255a5a106bc66.png?size=750x1000)
在“叶城”吃早餐,两个烤包子、一碗所谓的粥,实在吃不习惯,还是要多一个花卷吃饱,记住茶是免费标配,以后只需要点主食就可以了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a58adb291988c482.jpg?size=750x1000)
叶城县也是新藏线的起点,如果在原籍没有办边防证,这里也是最后一个可以办边防证的地方。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b355117b088fee17.jpg?size=750x562)
我们同行的两位美女妹妹由于临时决定走新藏线,所以只好在这里补办边防证与我们一路同行进西藏,新藏线一路没有边防证那是万万行不通的!
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0144ec7974d82ca9c6.jpg?size=750x1000)
叶城到三十里营房,总行程370公里,用时大约12个小时。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014807ee471319a47a.jpg?size=750x562)
这一路都在高海拔里起起伏伏,人烟稀少,景色荒芜,唯有漫漫黄沙相伴。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0163aa0fef379359b3.jpg?size=750x562)
一路穿梭在喀喇昆仑山和昆仑山之间,看到的多是大货车,偶尔也能看到军车。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0119faeedc1c361172.jpg?size=750x562)
还好看到了野骆驼和藏羚羊算是有了点心灵的感应。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01898f70e93859abd8.jpg?size=750x562)
这一段路程,三十里营房是唯一的歇脚点。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01dc6d29dbca483bb1.jpg?size=750x961)
因为三十里营房是部队的驻地,所以环境比较简陋,只有几家私人开的旅店。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01bb6532b380395e10.jpg?size=750x562)
再加上3780米的海拔,和早晚温差大的环境,总体来说吃住条件比较艰苦。最没想到的是我们的司机有点高反,其他四个人都还好。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012b970832ac23a801.jpg?size=750x562)
在新疆境内无人区,有幸遇见藏羚羊~
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01138eec09a830c9e9.jpg?size=750x471)
三十里营房到狮泉河是707km。中间会翻越八个达坂,海拔在4280-378km之间。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01c2949f619dd5709f.jpg?size=750x562)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01be800843b1700986.png?size=750x500)
沿着喀喇昆仑山向东南,越来越接近平均海拔4500米以上,被称为“世界屋脊之屋脊”、“世界第三极”、“生命之禁区”的西藏阿里了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t015dbeee3394164986.jpg?size=750x1000)
还好我们的司机没高反了,但两个小美女妹妹高反开始了,一路昏昏欲睡,登山小帅哥也在海拔5120的泉水湖检查站(当地人也叫它“死人沟”)过安检测核酸时突发高反,额头冒汗,还好他半个小时后缓和过来。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01859ff7090c2f31fd.jpg?size=750x562)
我可能是被美景深深地吸引了,没顾上高反,一路观赏“阿克赛钦湖”(海拔4844米的)、“龙木错”(海拔5004米的)、“班公错”(海拔4239米)。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0120c910a210c71575.jpg?size=750x515)
“阿克赛钦湖”海拔4844米,位于和田县境内的昆仑山上,是和田县阿克赛钦地区的重要湖泊,属于咸水湖。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01db20c449eb24cc3a.jpg?size=750x562)
阿克赛钦是维吾尔语,意为"中国的白石滩"。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01bb9cd95fbbf47dad.jpg?size=750x562)
“龙木错”在遥远的西藏阿里地区,有一个很少人知道的盐湖叫“龙木措”海拔5004米。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01442f33b70e78a059.jpg?size=750x1015)
湖的四周没有高山,很普通的一个湖,在阳光的照耀下泛着幽蓝的光芒,微风拂动水面撩起微微波澜。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01c3297e2a6681cf58.png?size=750x430)
“班公错”海拔4239米,为边境湖,东部在中国境内,西部在印度控制的克什米尔地区。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t015c4816eba5061123.jpg?size=750x562)
班公错有一个很奇特的现象,印度境内为咸水,无鱼无鸟。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01edce3f993b4e3f04.jpg?size=750x562)
而中国境内为淡水,湖中生长着大量鱼类和水鸟。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0176bc64387ee2b6e6.jpg?size=750x463)
湖面有世界海拔最高的鸟岛,每年夏季有数以万计的地中海中头鸥来次繁殖。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01972377941992b89a.png?size=750x402)
西藏是心灵的圣地,眼睛的天堂,身体的地狱,人一定要心存敬畏。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013eb4e50918459c9d.jpg?size=750x562)
我这是第四次来西藏了,依然需要三天的环境适应期,今天是进藏第三天,也是我高反最严重的一天,头晕阵痛,脑子好像是慢半拍。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a63855b99982d40f.jpg?size=750x562)
从狮泉河到札达,全程250公里,大约行驶了6个小时,我基本都是处于睡眠状态的。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b2df81c3e900585a.jpg?size=750x1000)
同车其他四个小伙伴今天都过了高反期了,下午5点多一到札达,就放下行李,精神抖擞去逛古格王朝遗址了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0173f3fa5bbb7d3059.jpg?size=750x466)
我三年前曾去过,再加上高反没心情,一到酒店就倒头昏睡,一直睡到第二天早上8点多,整个人完全恢复过来了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0154236248eab11a00.png?size=750x562)
吃个早餐,漫步札达县托林镇,感受一下当地村民的生活环境,还真不错,家家户户有房有车,小镇有寺庙、有运动场、还有养老院,现在的藏民真是彻底翻身农奴把歌唱了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019c257ad0a3b8eaf3.jpg?size=750x562)
札达县曾经有过七百年灿烂的文明史的古格王朝,它的消逝至今仍是个谜。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01cc8fb29f96c2ac17.jpg?size=750x1301)
连天空都是那么的不一样,看看我们这次遇到的太阳晕和晚霞。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01aa847f76bf203c96.png?size=750x562)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014c875ebe7a8a6424.jpg?size=750x497)
阿里平均海拔4500米以上,被称为“世界屋脊之屋脊”、“世界第三极”、“生命之禁区”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01249d2075dc73c8c6.jpg?size=750x562)
是喜马拉雅山脉、冈底斯山脉相聚的地方,也被称之为"万山之祖"。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012a3b1d22010bd345.jpg?size=750x562)
同时,这里也是雅鲁藏布江、印度河、恒河的发源地,故又称为"百川之源"。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0148889a005214556d.jpg?size=750x1000)
从今天起,我们就如同天马行空,穿梭在4500米的海拔中,沿着喜马拉雅山脉、冈底斯山脉地区穿行。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014ec45e2fec9b5e22.jpg?size=750x562)
一路是在高海拔与稀薄的空气斗争的一路,但也是被神奇景观震撼的一路。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01cd2663e1fe7dd97a.jpg?size=750x562)
今天的行程是从札达到萨嘎717.6公里,约10小时的车程。主要景点土林、冈仁波齐 、玛旁雍措、佩估措。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012f8855e31dd27549.jpg?size=750x517)
从色彩斑斓的山峰到连绵不断的土林,再到镜子一样明亮的圣湖,无一不是奇迹,无一不让人惊叹。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a3c1c89a0b1a4d78.jpg?size=750x562)
“札达土林”平均海拔4000米,是世界上最大的土林片区,之所以称之为土林,是因为其被侵蚀风化后的地貌像极了树林。这里寸草不生,但矿产资源丰富,有铬、铜、铁、兰晶石、叶腊石、红宝石、大理石、白云母、石英沙等。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0160d6daf136040b4f.jpg?size=750x562)
“玛旁雍措”(海拔4588米)自古以来佛教信徒都把它看作是圣地“世界中心”,是中国蓄水量第二大的天然淡水湖、湖水透明度最大的淡水湖,藏地所称三大“神湖”之一。它也是亚洲四大河流的发源地,东为马泉河,南为孔雀河,西为象泉河,北为狮泉河。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018a519a2a2c1bda08.jpg?size=750x490)
珠峰大本营2017年9月、2020年8月、2022年7月来过三次了,但离它一次比一次远,有环境保护大本营后撤3公里的客观原因,更主要的还是怕吃苦,没有执著追求的主观意愿。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t010fd9629a79db6ddd.jpg?size=750x563)
新藏线(G219)北起新疆叶城县,南至西藏日喀则拉孜县,全长2140多公里,沿途穿越举世闻名的昆仑山脉、喀喇昆仑山脉、喜马拉雅山脉、岗底斯山脉,平均海拔4500米以上,堪称“世界道路之冠”!
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014c83da6975ffe6cc.jpg?size=750x500)
全线翻越16个冰大坂、涉44条冰河,这一路多为高寒缺氧的无人区,沿途横卧着逾千公里的荒漠戈壁、永冻土层和常年积雪的崇山峻岭,是目前世界上海拔最高、路况最艰险的公路,因此被人们称之为“天路”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011511e286993f0926.jpg?size=750x562)
作者简介
杨志婷 汇客厅文旅特邀作者;一个热爱旅行,乐于分享的退休人士。
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