拉链夹克衫好像一直在流行中生存着,尤其是父母辈的人特别喜欢这种衣型,休闲宽松,穿在身上很舒适,那么今天我们就来学习一款拉链式宽松短夹克外套的钩法,示范用线:混纺羊毛线(100g/350m),5.0mm的钩针。
我们先来钩衣服的后片。先起锁针,起的针数为衣服的长度(针数少,衣服短;针数多,衣服长),示范起了68针(60针分配给衣身,8针作为底边,来回翻面钩)。第1行:先钩60针中长针,再钩8针短针;第2行:(这行开始都是挑后半针来钩)短针上钩短针,中长针上钩中长针,始终重复第2行的钩法一直钩到适合的尺寸;示范款后片的尺寸为50cm(宽)*48cm(长)。
接着再来钩衣服的前片,起针数与钩法都与后片相同,前片需要钩出2片,每片的长度与后片相同,宽度差不多为后片的一片(可以比一半再大一点点,但尽量别比一半小),示范款前片每片的尺寸为48cm(长)*27cm(宽)。前片需要开插袋,示范款在第4行开始开插袋;第4行:先钩8针短针,4针中长针,然后18针锁针(约12厘米的长度),然后隔18针,从第19针开始,再不加不减钩中长针至行末。下1行开始继续按规律去钩(锁针处挑锁针的后半针钩中长针),最后一行,钩一行短针(注:别忘了都是挑后半针来钩)。
袖子起针起到适合手臂的长度,示范款起了80针,其中68针作为袖身,12针作为袖边;68针处都是钩中长针,12针处钩8针短针,4针中长针;钩法与后片的规律相同(来回翻面挑后半针钩,中长针处钩中长针,短针上钩短针,引拔针上钩引拔针),就这样一直钩到适合的袖宽。示范款袖子的尺寸约为52cm(长)*36cm(宽)。
接着将前后片重合,扣出袖洞(示范款袖洞为18厘米);然后在后片的中心加上记号扣,并在其左右各9厘米处分别加上记号扣(中间的记号扣可以取下,两记号扣之间为18厘米)。接着将衣服的侧边分别缝合(缝合到袖洞处),再将袖片以及肩部缝合(肩部缝合到两个记号扣处),再将袖片与衣身缝合。
接着钩2片内袋(示范款起了18针,来回翻面钩长针,一直钩到14cm*21cm的尺寸。然后将内袋在衣服的口袋处(在反面)缝合。接着钩块领片:起10针锁针,来回翻面钩短针,一直钩到尺寸为为40cm*7cm的大小(与领围的周长相当),然后将领片与衣领处缝合。最后先将拉链与衣身固定好位置,然后再缝合好,这样这款休闲宽松款的短夹克衫就完工啦~!
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