皂荚木在圣经中的意义
最近羊的首页,被何超琼的民族风写真刷屏了。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019b56ae6a3252f01e.jpg)
她身穿苗族传统服饰,头戴苗银花冠,和苗族妇女和谐融洽,谈笑风生。
尽显端庄典雅,华美大气。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01826cf3082039dc0c.jpg)
再切换手工高定款苗绣华服,无论是鱼尾裙还是露背装,都让羊忍不住感慨:
六十有余的何超琼真是别有一番风韵!
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01fcdd600b713b1a37.jpg)
不少姐妹应该要好奇了,生在香港的何超琼,怎么和苗族扯上了关系。
原来,她还是黔东南苗绣产业全球推广大使。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t015507b17196d09993.jpg)
这组写真,出自一场名为“指上生花、经典永续”非遗苗绣特展,是由何超琼的信德集团、上海前滩31主办,《芭莎艺术》承办,前两天刚开幕。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0191d6a0a34c57d404.jpg)
那么,由何超琼牵头筹备的这场国家非遗优秀代表苗绣特展,有哪些特别之处?
虽名列中国四大名绣之外,但能让何超琼多次亲自深入苗寨,甘之如饴为其代言、站台,苗绣到底有什么魅力?
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012ca3dd09a2398a86.jpg)
何超琼主办的苗绣特展
有什么好看的?
云天五色锦霞绣,线蹊密密盛衣佳。
苗族是个没有文字记录的少数民族,却能以色彩艳丽、图案奇特、技法精湛的苗绣,来记录史实,表达情感,传递美学。
何超琼在多次前往贵州黔东南考察后,将大山深处的苗绣技艺,搬到了大上海的浦东新地标前滩31,办了苗绣艺术展(免费的)。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0174112529f309c98a.gif)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011ec6dbc8379b4ed0.gif)
在展区,有从贵州欧东花民族服饰博物馆借出的12套传统苗服盛装,它们大都有上百年的历史。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a723b48fee437f32.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0199287b991183b46f.jpg)
其中一套贵州丹寨苗族百鸟成衣,距今更是超过了300年。
上面绣满鸟、花、蝴蝶、龙纹样,图案纹饰蜿蜒繁复,下摆边上还缀着一束束白色鸟毛。
鸟是苗族的古图腾,苗族人把它当作始祖来崇拜,意义自是深远。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011ddcddeddc76b3b5.jpg)
还有一件背面绣满了各色石榴花朵和飞鸟,属于苗服中的孤品。
曾经有法国人开价30万想要收购,欧东花民族服饰博物馆的馆长欧东花都没有卖。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01491b6cbbaac4b2cc.jpg)
除此以外,也展示了37件背带、帽子、荷包、口水兜、小孩连体裤等,贯穿苗族女性一生的各式绣片。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01368592956fa1b829.gif)
每个精美绝伦、细节感满满的绣片背后,都承载着一个特定的传说故事和文化内涵(后面羊再展开细说)。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012b175751d046df7e.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a49f3cf183c47a77.jpg)
而这场苗绣展中还有一个特别的单元
是《芭莎艺术》为何超琼拍摄的20副摄影作品。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f458f3aa17e4edec.gif)
里面捕捉到何超琼在苗寨生活,和苗族绣娘们交流的精彩瞬间,展现着中西合璧的艺术共通性。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0130dabd7573f8803c.jpg)
以及骨相优越,带有异域混血感的何超琼,用阅历和气场与苗族传统服饰碰撞出了别样的美感。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0105e1a0d0e806bff9.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01da370b6150a2638d.jpg)
何超琼也在其个人公号里分享了办展初衷:
是对经典苗绣历史、技艺的传承和保护,也是对苗族女性智慧和创造力的赞美。
希望弘扬中华传统文化内涵,助力非物质文化遗产走出大山,走向世界。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013fde5ef691d1ec70.gif)
的确,非遗苗绣独一无二的艺术美学价值,让它值得被更多人看到。
苗绣装饰艺术
中国人自己的布衣美学
展现在传统苗族服饰上的非遗苗绣,保留着古老神秘的少数民族文化。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t0134425cd63e71c359.jpg)
其以布为纸,以针做笔,以线当墨。
原始且独特的刺绣图纹叙事,将属于苗族女性的视觉世界与符号美学一针一线地写成无字历史。
展现着苗族深厚的文化底蕴和绚烂的审美情趣,被誉为“穿在身上的史书”。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t019d2f42ff489d343f.jpg)
苗绣最早起源于古代濮人的雕题文身,即用野刺在皮肤上刺龙凤等花纹,当做保护色以谋生存。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01c2c8180169acd365.jpg)
蚌埠博物馆藏 新石器时代陶塑雕题纹面人头像
现存雕题纹面最早实物例证
濮人的后裔南蛮发明了桑蚕之术后,尝试用朱砂等仿生物色彩在蚕帛上描绘花纹,雕题文身逐渐变成了装饰艺术。
到了周代有了铁针,南蛮对美有了更高追求,便发展出了挑花、凿花等技艺,进而有了苗绣。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t017752b939f8d9cbbd.jpg)
湖南博物馆藏 马王堆汉墓绛红绢地长寿绣
以苗绣之一的锁绣针法绣出变形云纹、花蕾、枝叶及在漫卷流云中的凤纹,寓意长生不老
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01d4518ef2dfccd767.jpg)
新疆博物馆藏 汉晋蓝绢刺绣手套,采用苗绣之一的锁绣出花鸟,藤草纹等纹样
而由于现存的苗族有上百个分支,氏族部落大多分散居住,在贵州、云南、川南、湖南、广西等均有聚居。
各氏族在历代传承中形成了各自的装饰艺术,苗绣便也出现了各式各样的种类。
像何超琼宣传的贵州黔东南地区的苗绣,就是比较有代表性的。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01a1651f97afece4fb.jpg)
苗族盛装款式 曾宪阳拍摄于1979年,黔东南雷山县
苗绣的工序和步骤非常繁琐和复杂。
首先是在刺布上画出花样,不熟练的要用纸花做绣模,熟练的可以用毛笔或颜料直接画,形成布上的花纹。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01301ab46e87c18c03.jpg)
然后在绣布上留出刺绣位置,上好绷架,用针线捆缝一圈。
接着是配线,根据纹样的内容及装饰对象,结合配色设计搭配不同颜色、不同粗细的绣线。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t012d04d191df84609f.jpg)
针法又细分绣、插、捆、洒、点、挑、串…
一系列动作不出差错地进行下来,才能使绣物呈现色彩多元大胆,造型丰富精美。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018e485e63bedd0cd5.gif)
图源:央视《手艺中国》
正因如此,苗绣以色彩绚丽、图案奇特和技法精湛著称。
色彩搭配上,苗绣常用到朱红、品绿、天蓝、黑色和金色等高饱和色。
大胆进行红配绿、蓝配黄等,颜色鲜艳夺目,对立又统一,整体沉稳细腻,生动古朴。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t017beb5edff9800bfd.jpg)
苗绣的纹样构图想象丰富,是苗族妇女们遵循苗族圣经《苗族古歌》的生命美学观念。
将自然和人作为审美对象和创作灵感,在刺绣中发挥神话思维的艺术想象力。
借助娴熟的技艺,用夸张、变形、抽象等手法,创作出龙、鸟、鱼、花卉、蝴蝶,以及反映历史画面的神奇纹样。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01862221a88035ae9a.jpg)
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b70142eadeb91254.jpg)
其中比较多见的水波纹,是苗族祖先跋山涉水的迁徙见证
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018912339dc218b811.jpg)
相传早年间,一位名为兰娟的女首领,为了记住迁徙的艰难历程,想出了用彩线记事的办法。
过黄河就绣条黄线,过长江就绣条蓝线,翻山越岭也绣个符号标记。
这样一路记述着苗族从黄河、长江到贵州清水江的漫漫迁徙之路。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01629d49044f799e5b.gif)
图源:央视《锦绣》
蝴蝶纹,也是苗族的祖先图腾
传说远古时期,一棵枫树的树心长出了一只蝴蝶,蝴蝶与水田的水泡相恋,生了12个蛋,这12个蛋分别衍变成自然万物和苗人祖先。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01605389db1fc35d18.jpg)
还有一些带有祈福寓意的纹样,例如求子纹,为子孙后代祈求平安
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t014c4011f28fd16558.jpg)
图源:人民日报新媒体《非一般非遗》
不仅如此,苗绣的技法精巧,种类丰富多样。
包括盘绣、剪纸绣、锁绣、苗式打籽绣、绞绣、辫绣、破线绣等12余种。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f610d37203282b7a.jpg)
其中以破线绣最为突出,是苗绣技法中的极致。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t013ef4916b52bd9804.jpg)
破线绣通常先需要将一根丝线,剖成8至12股(有时甚至是16股)不等的细丝线,每一根堪比发丝。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t010525eb505e1762df.gif)
图源:央视记录片《中国女红》
再把分好的细丝线穿上针,线随针穿过夹着皂角液的皂角叶,让细丝线挺括、亮泽、柔韧性更好。
然后用平绣针法,沿图案轮廓挨针挨线将图案铺满并锁边,绣面平整圆润,看起来细腻逼真。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b71a0cc161e8ac91.gif)
图源:央视记录片《中国女红》
由于破线绣做工考究、费时,成品针脚厚重,显得雍容华贵,往往用于刺绣嫁衣和庆典盛装。
而想要完成一套华丽精美的破线嫁衣,大致需要耗时四到五年。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t011d897a4600e115a1.jpg)
诚然,传统苗绣技艺由于制作周期长,成本高,苗绣饰品销路窄等原因,一度面临着后继无人的窘境。
但作为传递文化血脉、传承苗族女性坚韧与智慧的中华绝技,苗绣在当代亦不可或缺。
苗绣技艺与女性传承
在苗族村寨里,苗族姑娘从7、8岁,便开始跟随自己的母辈们学习刺绣技艺。
前面提过的欧东花民族服饰博物馆馆长欧东花,曾分享自己7岁边跟着母亲学刺绣边念书。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t010501ef954ab8251f.jpg)
何超琼与非遗苗绣传承人欧东花
等到了14、15岁,已经能够熟练掌握刺绣技艺。同时,纺纱、织布、染布也是生活必备技能。
在成年前后,她们要着手为自己制作嫁衣。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01ab9ba4892238379c.jpg)
图源:人民日报新媒体《非一般非遗》
苗绣从母亲传给女儿,从长辈授给晚辈,针法融合了代代相承的口传心授。
繁复的针线在她们手中百转千回,勾勒出一件件色彩浓烈、华丽雍容的盛装,尽显东方手工技艺之美。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f6a7f3b027a94dee.jpg)
然而,众所周知,我们很多传统文化常因种种原因陷入传承困境,苗绣亦是几度濒临失传。
在国家将其列入第一批国家级非物质文化遗产之后,才逐渐得到大家的重视。
苗绣曾经是代代苗女的审美追求、劳动结晶,如今更是她们安身立命的生存之道。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t018ae990d852505fc2.jpg)
图源:人民日报新媒体《非一般非遗》
黔东南苗绣代表性传承人欧东花,不仅创办欧东花民族服饰博物馆,收购保护上万件苗绣作品。
而且成立苗绣合作社,把接到的苗绣订单分给周边村寨的苗族妇女,增加她们的收入。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t010b74b3157c0ea657.jpg)
图源:博主采访欧东花
湖南湘西的非遗苗绣传承人石佳,6年前回到家乡创业。
成立七绣坊并开展“让妈妈回家”公益项目,免费培训1200+名苗族妇女学习苗绣技艺。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01dfbe4bf3cdb47649.jpg)
学成后,外出打工的妇女返乡就业,既能在家照顾老人、小孩,还能增加额外收入。
七绣坊绣娘的作品亮相世界非遗展,还被爱马仕设计师改良后参加法国时装秀。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t010173affcb434ea9e.jpg)
77岁的非遗苗绣传承人潘玉珍,有着60多年绣龄,也是国际时尚舞台的常客。
她穿着自己手工刺绣的苗族盛装,走上过新加坡、法国、美国等十几个国家的T台,同时也到各个国家和地区参展、售卖苗绣艺术品。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01f2876d417e52f2cd.jpg)
而何超琼此前去了三次贵州黔东南的苗寨,借着特展把苗绣带向了大上海。
这还不够,她还要把见到的苗族绣娘们,做成纪录片推向全世界。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t016cf553e77670db06.jpg)
其实苗女也好,港女也罢。
正是有着千千万万被看到、没被看到的女性,在为传承苗绣技艺共同努力,才有着中华文化的绵延不断。
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01b0c6f3bf3940453d.jpg)
贵州雷山非遗苗绣传承人杨阿妮
而苗绣文化作为女性的独立精神创造,传承着女性独有的视觉审美和生命力。
原是生存基本之需,如今她们在这块属于自己的阵地上,用智慧、细腻和辛劳构建自己的事业,实现自己的价值。
正在描绘着属于东方女性的风骨的她们,闪闪发光,又魅力无限。
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桑弦蓓4711圣经中带有海狗皮的经节有那些 -
窦倪沿19116694465 ______ 出25:5 染红的公羊皮,海狗皮,皂荚木, 出26:14 又要用染红的公羊皮做罩棚的盖;再用海狗皮做一层罩棚上的顶盖. 出35:7 染红的公羊皮,海狗皮,皂荚木, 出35:23 凡有蓝色、紫色、朱红色线,细麻,山羊毛,染红的公羊皮,海狗皮的,...
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