作者:黑夜王子
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大概就在3月的最后一个周末,老婆刷着手机,忽然就说想旅游了,清明去杭州吧!我:……喵喵喵?这么突然吗!
想想也不是不行,反正国内旅游也很简单,直接就开始订机票和酒店。只是因为还没做攻略,所以还不好确定具体游玩路线和回程时间,所以先定了厦门到杭州的机票以及第一天的酒店,后面再做攻略,定后面的酒店和机票、动车票等。
由于行程比较随性,而且带娃不太方便,总体来说行程是比较松散休闲的,也安排不是很合理,浪费了一些时间。行程如下:
第一天
4月5日早上的飞机,到杭州机场,打车到杭州大华饭店,放下行李后先去坐船游玩了三潭映月。
杭州大华饭店是五星级酒店,位置很好,就坐落在西湖边上,后门走出去就是西湖了。楼上有湖景房,可以看到湖景。
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我们是携程定的优享大床房,997元,本来不是湖景的,但是给我们升级成四楼的湖景房了,有一个阳台,侧面就是西湖。风景虽然挺好,档次也高,但比较吵。尤其是白天,西湖边上咿咿呀呀的昆曲声,音乐声,旁边公路的车辆声音……还好阳台玻璃是双层,隔音效果还行。
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杭州大华饭店的后门出去就是西湖边了,清明节估计杭州人都出去扫墓,人虽然不少但是比预期的少多了。天气阴,但是没下雨,不冷不热,很舒服。四月的西湖,柳枝纤嫩,大树发芽,花红柳绿,充满蓬勃生机。
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沿着西湖边走一段,到了坐船的地点,买票上船,每人70元,不满1.2米儿童不用票。
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阴天的西湖,仍然可看到远处青山的郁郁葱葱。
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三潭印月是西湖中的一个小岛,绕小岛走一圈的话,快一点估计也就十几分钟。岛上有亭台、栈道,花草树木,看点不少。
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良辰美景,大人都兴高采烈的拍照,小孩子就只懂得吃吃吃!
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三潭印月,这可是记录在1元纸币上的风景,肯定要打卡的。
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然后坐船去断桥、白堤。从三潭印月可以抵达西湖的几个游船码头,例如断桥残雪,花港观鱼,柳岸闻莺等。我们选择去了断桥残雪。断桥残雪是西湖上著名的景色,以冬雪时远观桥面若隐若现于湖面而称著。属于西湖十景之一。现在是春天,长堤上青嫩的柳枝随风摇曳,桃花盛开。
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西湖环线有观光电瓶车,分为两种,一种是绿色的,一种是褐色仿古的。都是上车后扫码,自行选择人数和起止区间,绿色电瓶车单个区间每人10元,而仿古的电瓶车是20元,贵了一倍,很不合理,但是你挤不上绿色车的话,也只能认了。虽然游客不算多,但我们还真的走了很久都没等到有空位的电瓶车,往回走了很远才终于上了绿色车子,一路开到了距离杭州大华饭店不太远的湖滨银泰附近。此时已经是下午两点,银泰里面大部分餐厅都已经停止派号,找了一圈只好选择了……马记永兰州牛肉面。
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虽然厦门人跑到杭州吃上海人开的兰州牛肉面,听起来挺奇怪,但是马记永的牛肉面确实不错,环境好,汤底鲜美,面条口感也挺好,牛肉也比“一头牛可供四万客”的真兰州牛肉面更多一些。他家的肉夹馍外皮酥脆,里面居然是夹烤羊肉,挺特别。
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然后吃饭完了回酒店休息,然后去了小河直街。
小河直街历史文化街区位于杭州市北部,地处京杭大运河、小河、余杭塘河三河交汇处。东临小河,西临和睦路,南临小河路,北临长征桥路。小河直街历史文化街区以小河直街为中心,沿运河、小河分布的民居和航运设施整体风貌和空间特征仍基本保存,具有一定的规模,在杭州市历史文化街区中应属于整体传统风貌较为完整的街区之一。街区真实地反映了清末、民国初年运河沿线下层人民的生活环境,保留着一定数量的历史建筑,其建筑特色、街巷风貌、运河航运遗迹仍然保留着独特的风貌。
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小河直街沿着运河而建,河岸的房屋一面是朝街的店面,一面是靠河的后门,不少咖啡馆、茶馆就在河边摆了桌椅,在这个环境泡茶喝咖啡想必不错。但是总体上,每个商业化的江南水景老街的风味都是差不多的。古朴的外表打着现代的招牌,遮遮掩掩或者毫不掩饰的秀出商业化的内容。
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我们喝着奶茶,吃着水果捞,闲坐到天色暗下来,整条老街在红灯笼与LED灯带的装扮下,如真如幻,展现不同的风情。还好,至少灯带没有五颜六色,不至于让人太出戏。
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小河直街逛到晚上,又去了小河公园。小河公园号称是日本设计师的设计,建筑颇有看点,但是似乎正在修建,建筑都没开放。
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小河公园没多少可逛,所以又打车去了浙大玉泉校区。到那边其实才七点多,但是已经很冷清了,找了一家即将打烊的小餐馆,随便吃了拌面扁食。和老板娘闲聊得知,杭州本地人睡觉很早,晚上七点多看完新闻联播就睡了,大清早四点钟起床锻炼。
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杭州的馄饨会放虾皮、紫菜,在厦门也吃过杭州人开的小笼包和馄饨,对此早有预期。这家店的馄饨做的还不错,挺合口味。
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拌面与厦门不同,酱汁不知道是如何调的,看起来比较黑,但是其实并不会太咸,吃起来也不错。
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浙江大学玉泉校区是浙江大学的老校区。浙江大学工作日晚上17:30之后允许游客入内参观,周末白天也可以进。我们扫二维码填写资料后就进去了,果然杭州人睡觉很早,整个校园很冷清,连宿舍楼都亮灯不多。
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不过,运动场上倒是有不少学生正在锻炼。
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第二天
杭州大华饭店的早餐是自助的,丰盛程度堪称我吃过的五星级酒店早餐之最!面包就有五六种,饮料有橙汁、西柚汁、椰汁、热豆浆、热牛奶、热核桃米浆、咖啡、红茶……
杭州大华饭店有自己的游船,订房就送一次免费环游西湖,历时一个多小时。
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我们九点上了船,开船后下起了蒙蒙小雨,正好来一次雨中游西湖,别有风味。游船二楼四面玻璃,在里面可以听广播讲解,如果喜欢拍照的话,外面是一圈走廊,可以在走廊拍照,就是冷了点。细雨中的西湖,远方略带了一点雾蒙蒙的滤镜,水面略有薄雾,但又不影响近景的观赏。
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然后回酒店收拾行李,换到三台山庄,吃饭休息。三台山庄位于三台山路,是浙江省总工会疗养院,一看就是颇有历史感的样子,换句话说就是比较传统风格。群山掩映,绿树成荫,大厅落地窗外是错落有致的假山鱼塘,整个环境令人心旷神怡。
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我们住的房间刚好在最老的那栋楼,没有电梯,装修风格令人想起国宾馆、招待所之类。房间倒是不小,卫生间还有浴缸,还有附送一次性的浴缸套(很大的塑料薄膜),可以放心的泡澡。这点要好评!因为坐落在森林之中,虽然交通没那么方便,但是很安静。
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午饭在三台山庄中餐厅吃的。点了:糖醋里脊;腌笃鲜;桂花糖藕。味道都不错!话说我在网上问杭州有什么美食,四个群有三个群里面说杭州是美食荒漠,真的假的?!其实吧应该是我没找对地方,我姐住上海,推荐老头儿油爆虾,正宗杭州菜,可惜杭州太堵,顾着玩就没法顾着吃了,只能等下次了。
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下午下雨,老婆带小孩打车去博物馆、科技馆玩,我睡了一觉后去跟他们会合。
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晚上去了河坊街。河坊街自古就是杭州的商业中心,旧时,与中山中路相交的“清河坊四拐角”,曾经分别为孔凤春香粉店、宓大昌烟店、万隆火腿庄、张允升帽庄四家名店各居一角,成为当时远近闻名的所在。杭州闻名的“五杭”(杭剪、杭扇、杭粉、杭烟、杭线)就出于此。
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没走多远就可以看到“江南铜屋”,也就是朱炳仁铜雕艺术博物馆,我觉得是半条河坊街(因为没有逛完整条)最值得逛的地方。铜屋范围很广,足有四五间店面的长度,还有地下室一层,铜屋里面,天花板是铜的,墙壁是铜的,地板是铜的(虽然这些可能是仿铜色);还有桌椅,几百件各色铜制工艺品摆件,精美奢华,令人大开眼界。这里面拍了上百张照片,随便都能凑几个九宫格出来发朋友圈。
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如果你还没法轻松拍出几万块钱来买一件展品带回家,没关系,里面也有小工艺品,从几十块到两三百块不一而足。最便宜的铜质小葫芦挂件特价49元,也很精美。
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河坊街其他店铺相对比较乏善可陈,有个店一楼水雾缭绕,梦幻妖异,免费参观,你可能以为是个景点吧?
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结果到了楼上,哦,原来是很大的小商品市场……关键是价格也不便宜,喜欢的话,网上买吧。
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其他店铺都是卖工艺品和小吃,没啥可说。我们找到了茶色烟雨,这是竹筒奶茶的首创者,一杯28元。竹筒奶茶的跟风者很多,无论杭州、苏州、周庄、厦门都有看到不少。既然遇到“正版”了,那就打个卡吧。味道上还是可以的,乌龙茶比碧螺春更好喝一些。上面的奶油是动物奶油,比较不会腻。
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不想边走边吃,就到了旁边的蟹黄小笼汤包店,点了一个小笼包,好像是20元。味道还行。
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第三天
第三天4月7日是周五,我们准备一大早去郭庄码头坐手摇船游乌龟潭。乌龟潭属于西湖的内湖,很多人都说乌龟潭风景比外西湖美多了,必去!我们打算走茅家埠路线,不过不少师傅嫌麻烦,除非7点出发时间充裕才愿意走,否则8点出发的话一般师傅都不愿意走了。但是我们前一天晚上没有约到师傅,所以打算早上早早到郭庄码头碰碰运气。说来也是运气吧,我们到了码头,老婆自言自语“不知道哪里有坐船的师傅啊”,旁边刚好路过一个师傅,没有人预约,于是搭话,就谈好了。
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事实上手摇船的师傅们都是公家旅游公司的,扫码填单,按时间计费,所以逛茅家埠大概就是多半个小时吧,也不用担心被坑。我们这一趟茅家埠+乌龟潭,到花港观鱼下船,花了两个小时出头,实际费用375元,供参考。这个师傅摇比较慢,我们有充足的时间拍照赏景,而且因为出发比较早,船不多,如果是8点出发的话,就可能面临百舸争流的场面了。
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诗云:“未能抛得杭州去,一半勾留是此湖。”前两天逛西湖外湖也就是三潭印月、雷峰塔、断桥一带时,我并没有这个体会。但是这次游茅家埠、乌龟潭,我是真的流连忘返,真的是杭州一半美景在西湖,西湖一半美景集于此潭!
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前面几张是茅家埠,绕一圈出来仍然是郭庄码头,大约半小时,就等于是比直接去乌龟潭多绕了半小时路程。但是绝对值!尤其我们今天天气不错,前两天都是阴雨,今天出太阳了,朝阳下的春天嫩叶焕发着蓬勃生机,绿的晃眼。
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此刻要从两百多张照片、十几个视频里面挑选一部分出来,实在是无从下手,都TMD太美了!只能随手挑选了一小部分。这种“人在画中游”的感受,不亲身体验一下是不会懂的!
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一圈下来,已经是九点出头,在花港观鱼码头下船,一脸意犹未尽。然后步行去了雷峰塔,距离只有几百米。有扶手梯直达塔下。
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雷峰塔可谓家喻户晓,在1924年倒掉了,鲁迅还写过文章《论雷峰塔的倒掉》。有歌云:“法海你不懂爱,雷峰塔会掉下来~~”后来直到2002年才在原址重建,并保留了原雷峰塔的遗址,用钢筋水泥框架将整个遗址罩起来,再在上面建塔。塔高5层,塔内实现了四个现代化,有电梯直达4层,然后再爬楼梯上5层。
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雷峰塔顶层视野很好,风景优美。
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雷峰塔下也有一些风景。
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雷峰塔外公路很堵,我们又走回花港观鱼,横穿整个花港观鱼到另一侧公路打车。由于小孩吵着累了,我们走的是最快的路线,却因此错过了真正的花港观鱼,只看了一些绿树草地,看了个寂寞。下图是网图。
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午饭是三台山庄吃的。但是这次点菜不如昨天成功。宋嫂鱼羹,因为是淡水鱼,腥味比较明显。里面有加了醋和姜丝去腥,仍然不喜欢。
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虾仁豆腐煲,豆腐是嫩豆腐切块后裹上粉去炸,然后再做煲,酸甜口味,但是偏酸了。
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荠菜炒淮山,还不错。
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然后又换到了民宿,我们这次真是三个晚上住了三个地方,体验不同风情,但是其实挺麻烦的。这次的民宿就在三台山庄不远处的民宿一条街,街上有多家民宿,我们住的是三宅民宿,这个名字总让我想起三宅一生。
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民宿不大,小巧精致,老板娘是东北人,刚接手这家民宿不久,性格很好。我们住的是顶楼,有一个小小的阳台,第二天大清早可以看到外面雾气朦胧的清晨景色。
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休息一阵就去了附近的太子湾公园,走路才几百米就到。
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太子湾公园正在举办花展,有很多品种的郁金香。
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正值春天,太子湾公园到处繁花盛开,令人心旷神怡。水里还有不少鱼,如果有带面包,可以喂鱼,小朋友最喜欢了。
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此时已经是周五晚,下班高峰期,西湖周边非常堵,打了很久都打不到车,本来想出去外面吃的,无奈只好回民宿,干脆叫餐得了。老板娘推荐了一家,点了东坡肉,茶树菇,莼菜汤,还行。东坡肉挺好吃。东坡肉油光红亮,肥肉软烂,瘦肉不柴,我喜欢!西湖莼菜羹,在别的地方也有吃过,这边是加了一点醋,微酸开胃,还可以。
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晚上到处堵车,就懒得再出去了,休息。
文章先写到这,行程过半,后面的部分以及总结另外起一篇文章。
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