北京时间 7 月 4 日，Dior 2022 秋冬高级订制系列于罗丹美术馆发布。

大秀开始前，两支名为《生命之树》和《何为民俗？》的预告片抢先发布在Dior官方社交平台账号上，简单直接地切入到本次大秀的主题。

当女装创意总监玛丽亚·嘉茜娅·蔻丽(Maria Grazia Chiuri)今年春天在罗马当代艺术博物馆看到乌克兰艺术家奥利西亚·特洛菲门科(Olesia Trofymenko)作品的瞬间，决定邀请她一起加入到2022秋冬高级订制的设计中。

这位艺术家的作品围绕生命之树展开，本季的核心灵感正是来源于此。

连接世间万物的生命之树，是遥远文明与古老神话的象征，也与世界多地的风格相符，它的枝干擎起天空，根系连通大地。设计师将这一古老的元素通过绘画创作和刺绣工艺，交融呈现在Dior的高订系列华服上，赋予了生命之树更加充沛的情感。

“根与源”的自然哲理被巧妙镶嵌在服饰中，生命的循环和艺术的传承在这场秀中同时被诠释。

走入罗丹美术馆，可以看到艺术家Olesia 的数十幅标志性画作以巨幅挂毯的形式装点秀场，精湛的刺绣手法还原了预告片中的花团锦簇。

浓烈的色彩昭示植物在自然中的蓬勃生命力，绽放的生命之树周身环绕着鲜花、果实与鸟，一场象征着成长、力量与永恒的大秀由此展开。

一名剃着寸头的模特为本季的开场模特，不寻常的发型似乎隐喻着重生。身穿温柔的白色蕾丝拼接礼服，镂空玫瑰图案大面积出现在裙身，攀爬上脖颈，以充满着原生态自然气息的棉收尾。

玫瑰是Christian Dior先生的挚爱，也是Dior的标志性元素。本季的玫瑰以3D立体刺绣形态出现，由棉线、丝线及纱线以多种技法织就，精妙装点于华服。

本季是属于大自然的狂欢，在这座拥有着巴黎最美花园的美术馆，此刻为艺术和时装的魅力倾倒。

深浅不一的米色大面积出现，刺绣花朵翩然绽放于棉质面料、羊毛绉纱、真丝和羊绒之上，仿佛盛开在大地上。带着枝叶的藤蔓用曲折的姿态用力攀在肩膀上、裙摆上，模特的走动让蓬勃生长的植物呈现出动态的画面，生命的奥义由此展开。

需要耗费大量时间方能达至臻境的繁复刺绣由法国、意大利和印度的专业作坊制作完成。世界的创造力凝结在一起，这是一种共同创造美的方式。

正如大自然不遗余力地创造散发生命力的花朵、树木。工匠们用传统手工技艺刺绣和精湛手法创造出本季高订系列，Dior先生的玫瑰花被重新构思，绽放在3D珠绣中，点缀在蕾丝拼布间。

对手工艺的注重和对工匠的致敬，被写在本季Dior的华服下。对于设计师Maria来说，“我们有责任与工艺和这种对话建立桥梁”。

设计师Maria一直以来是跨民族文化的拥趸，这次她与艺术家Olesia一起将乌克兰传统民俗与服饰引入本季秀场。她直言：“某种程度上，我们现在需要重新思考，走向未来。”

乌克兰传统服饰中标志性的立领设计与泡泡袖的精致细腻的高订剪裁碰撞，细节处的刺绣独具民族风情。Dior的廓形与乌克兰的民族特色相结合，现代感和复古韵味同时出现。

拜占庭式的剪裁被多次运用，欧亚混搭的风格将民族文化的融合推向高潮，经典拜占庭风格中的华丽珠宝被手工刺绣所替代，精致度提升，素雅风格依旧。

充满民族风情的方领口、东方气质的盘扣、建筑式廓形、重磅蕾丝间的相互配合共同组成一场艺术的交流。

Christian Dior先生于1947年推出的“新风貌”（New Look），此次以多种面料焕新演绎：经典的迪奥套装Bar Jacket以竖向缩褶面料诠释出独特质感；伞状半身裙则以缎带为造型，塑造巴斯克风格，不同文化在这里有了流动的生命力。

大秀中让人印象深刻的，还有整身蕾丝勾勒的连衣裙，这是高订秀场上独特的造梦体验，仿佛将人拉回中世纪，美轮美奂的奢华浪漫跃然眼前。

镂空的蕾丝花纹有种欲盖弥彰的“大性感”，给包裹的连衣裙透了气，繁复的花纹以细密的工艺呈现，将古典美转化成为可穿戴艺术。

黑色与米色的拼接彰显高级质感，蕾丝与丝绒的拼接更是精致考究。仔细去看，蕾丝花卉是以不规则的状态自然相接，多层次地展现时装美学。

设计师对于高订文化的理解中，她认为“不可见的东西比可见的东西更需要努力”。这种“不可见”体现在她对于廓形、剪裁的把握。延展至脚边的裙摆把柔美发挥到极致，独特的领口设计如同花瓣包裹在身体之上。

本系列的68套高级时装中，色彩虽然基本选择了常见的基础色，但利用细节展现宛如艺术品般的浪漫。

秀场上挂满以刺绣方式完成的巨幅挂毯，与之对应的是呈现在时装上的刺绣之美。

这些放大去看更惊叹于其中细节，展现了迪奥高级订制工坊的精湛技艺。设计师对于刺绣的使用十分微妙，标志性的民族元素化作精巧花样绽放于中性色调的面料之上，让一件件重工的华美衣服可以保持轻盈和浪漫。

重工的蕾丝、刺绣不仅出现在时装上，连鞋履也拥有这华丽的一面。精妙的图案拼接布面，甚至鞋跟都被蕾丝包裹住，再配以瘦窄靴型，展现了Dior女郎的优雅洒脱。

这一季的首饰细节也值得细看，灵感来自于刺绣工匠中的工具，因此，你能从中见到“针垫”“顶针“这些工具的影子。耳环的设计用金属材质刻画出刺绣图案，再点缀温润的珍珠，尽显中世纪复古腔调。

高级时装的魅力是什么？将时装像艺术品般精雕细琢，并与文化交流深刻联系，这也是被镌刻在时装史里不可磨灭的一部分。

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责编：Lyduo

文字：Djing

协助：Chloe & 陈芷晴CC

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