在Anthony Vaccarello手下的SAINT LAURENT的品牌调性浑然天成,圣罗兰女郎在他的带领下有了更现代、锋利的一面。秀场前排被一众热辣的超模占领,有欧美挂的强势,有法式的松弛性感,当然还有冷峻优雅的。品牌老朋友朴彩英无疑是流量担当,拖尾上衣搭配黑色西装裤,在一双尖头高跟鞋的加持下飒爽无比。除此之外,本次巴黎行走Rosé还有两套 look,皆展露了SAINT LAURENT利落的大女人气质。娜扎也现身秀场,廓形西装与包臀裙的经典搭配,尤为吸引人。大秀依旧在法国地标性建筑埃菲尔铁塔前举办,千变万化的大理石纹理化为背景,以现代主义艺术映衬柔美优雅气质。SAINT LAURENT早在1966年就凭借设计出第一套女士吸烟装成功出圈,进而成为彰显女性力量的代表品牌。时至今日,套装早已成为圣罗兰女郎衣橱中不容置疑的默契,现任创意总监Anthony Vaccarello不仅延续了品牌本身的酷感,还放大了那份犀利与性感,于是有了现在T台上自带BGM出场的YSL女郎。本季,安东尼·瓦卡莱洛(Anthony Vaccarello)从阿梅莉亚·埃尔哈特(Amelia Earhart)、阿德里安·博兰(Adrienne Bolland)等女性先驱者汲取灵感。这些女郎勇于打破男性对特定行业的垄断,渗透于赛车与航空等领域。不难发现连体裤装、工装等元素组合在一起创造出了标志性廓形,通过精致细节呈现永恒经典造型。本季情感表达超越性别界限,例如廓形风衣、剪裁分明的无袖衫等经典单品,天衣无缝地融入女性衣橱。在飘带设计的加持下,经典的男装元素也自由演绎为隽永的女装设计,在当下的情境中重新演绎经典的女士时装剪裁美学,自信且精致。主色调为大地色系,如橄榄色、栗色、沙色、白垩色等,洋溢自然风情,亦有模糊性别的意味。新款猎装夹克、连体裤等主打单品别具实穿意趣,精妙考究的束腰设计与整体的休闲格调形成对比,棉及亚麻为主的面料秉承着实穿主义,穿着舒适度高。奢华的面料结合精简裁剪,拂去多余装饰,将经典圣罗兰服饰融入当下。雪纺、双绉、透视蕾丝等层次叠加,沉默的性感油然而生,圣罗兰女郎便是如此自如地随心展露或隐藏自己的身姿。Yves Saint Laurent先生向来是把玩配饰的老手,夸张配饰总能恰到好处地点亮整套look。如今,Anthony Vaccarello依旧保持着品牌最经典的设计元素。色彩鲜艳、体积庞大的首饰,巴洛克风格的耳环和几何形状的手镯…...带有 1980年代鲜明特征的首饰存在感极强。仔细观察还能发现项圈上飘逸着的飘带,在多种首饰的加持下,SIANT LAURENT女郎们一下子又变得复古、摇滚起来。皮革手套、高跟鞋等配饰则风格利落,增添品牌备受推崇的精致美韵。SIANT LAURENT的锋利、强势、性感还在继续。它有一种魔力,能让你在 2023秋冬的开始,就迫不及待想过上穿着 2024春夏服装的能力。 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LAURENT的秀场上!
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