接近巴黎男装周的尾声，所有的品牌都攒足了力气，在这样的场域中高歌一曲，这也包括AMI，在品牌创立十二年之际，它在巴黎的巴士底歌剧院，为所有人献上一曲法式现代舞序曲。
1月19日晚间八点半，就像旧时光舞会即将开场时一般，所有人沿着巴士底广场气势恢宏的楼梯拾级而上，穿过门厅，走入主厅，随后穿过花坛和乐池，走进铺着米黄色地毯的歌剧院主舞台之上。
在现场，AMI 2023秋冬时装秀的前排星光熠熠，Catherine Deneuve、Carla Bruni、Xavier Dolan、Noah Schnapp、Pierre Niney、Simona Tedesco、施柏宇、权顺荣（SEVENTEEN）、Gwendoline Christie、Anna Gentry、Usher和Dylan O’Brien等人到场支持品牌最新系列发布。
中国台湾演员施柏宇穿着AMI 23春夏系列，深色西服搭配绿格内衬，点花绿色方巾更显青春风范，亦如《想见你》当中的莫俊杰。
另外，三浦翔平、SEVENTEEN权顺荣和Usher三人身穿AMI 最新系列，站在伸展台上，更是展现了三种不同的魅力。身穿卡其色大衣的三浦翔平，内里搭配的白色敞领白衫，增添不少气质；
选择全身深色的权顺荣，用不同质感的上下装，多出点儿邪魅味儿；
Usher一袭浅色西装，搭配标准头巾大框墨镜，自带酷感。
歌剧院高挑的射灯下，以礼堂为背景，当每个人都坐在长长的旧木椅上时，这场有关于序曲的时装秀也便正式拉开帷幕。
“当我思考如何为2023秋冬系列命名时，Prelude自然而然地出现在我的脑海中。在歌剧和古典音乐中，Prelude意味序曲，它是一首曲目或一段表演的开场部分。这个系列于我而言非常重要，在AMI创立之初我便有了这个构想。” AMI品牌创始人兼创意总监Alexandre Mattiussi在提到这一季的主题时，解释道。
“Prelude回归AMI的风格精髓，也表达了我个人的真挚愿望，希望打造一个纯粹、焕新、真实，且尽显巴黎风尚的男女时装系列。这一季，AMI让这个冬天变得更加轻盈，无论材质、颜色还是廓形都更加柔和流畅。在我看来，这个系列充满浪漫情怀，如蚕茧温柔包裹，又像耳语般绵软慵懒。”
在现场接受采访时，Alexandre Mattiussi也提到去年夏天他84岁父亲的去世，对他的世界观产生了极大的影响，让他明白，成功是脆弱的。“当我九月份回来工作时，我告诉我的团队，让我们从头开始吧，想象我是AMI的新创意总监，不管我们要做什么，我都要当作这是我第一次看到它，过去的那个创意总监已经不在了。”这或许也解释了这一季在整体情绪上的定调，依旧有属于巴黎的闪亮，但Mattiussi在设计时有了更多的成熟意味。
伴随着这一季的发布，AMI也做了很多预示着重新开始再出发的事情：第一步，清除Instagram上的信息；
第二步，把鲜艳的颜色收进橱窗，选用薰衣草、黄油和高级灰色等柔和的颜色；
第三步，缩小Logo，让它们更有选择性的出场，最近几年AMI系列中经常出现的桃心A形象在这一季当中有所抑制。
Mattiussi为它们找到了更合适的地方，更多的笔墨被放在了经典款式的再创造中。
法式穿搭中的精髓，在这一季再次成为重点。中性风雾感柔和色调搭配深色装饰，更显质感轻盈。
设计师精选压绉、拉毛或加绒的柔软奢华面料，包括丝绸、羊驼绒和羊绒，兼顾轻盈质感，并以奢华刺绣装饰灵感源自男装的单品，更添个性风格和艺术格调。
这一季，巴士底歌剧院的T台上，组成这场“序曲”的“音符”们，渐强渐弱，汇聚了包括Charlotte Rampling、Amber Valetta、Scott Barnhill和Marie Sophie Wilson在内的历代知名模特，同时也不乏Noah Hanes等崭露头角的新面孔，共同演绎AMI 2023秋冬系列。
Mariacarla Boscono穿着一件灰褐色的男友夹克，搭配宽松的裤装；Saskia de Brauw穿着白色法兰绒艾森豪威尔夹克；Audrey Marnay穿着简单的及踝风衣登场。一直到Scott Barnhill，这位上世纪九十年代末全球知名模特出场，下摆轮廓分明，穿着真正厚实的靴子和宽大的普鲁士大衣。
夜晚巴黎街道上的他们，穿着AMI时装的他们，仿佛暗夜精灵。
若隐若现的闪亮元素，就像只在整时才会闪光的巴黎铁塔灯光，能够在60分钟时间里刚好等到的闪耀幸运，是整个系列当中的亮点也是独特的存在。
而当“影后”Charlotte Rampling一身午夜蓝深色套装出场时，又带来了巴黎夜晚的独特气息。
随后，时装秀即将结束之际，歌手Moses登上舞台，为观众演绎他的热门歌曲《Doomed in the dark》，在黑暗的舞台中，只有正上方的一盏聚光灯，将歌手的剪影映衬出来，就像14岁时的Alexandre Mattiussi第一次参加Opéra Palais Garnier舞蹈学校试镜时一般，“回到一个让我感觉舒服的地方，这对我来说意义重大。”
主打轻松休闲风格的AMI在这一季，配套序曲的主题，打造了“Nap Bag”这一包袋。
AMI 2023秋冬时尚珠宝系列，在设计上有意采用不完美、不对称的设计呈现代代相传的复古感，镶嵌不均匀的宝石彰显岁月沉淀的质感。
自2011年诞生于巴黎以来，AMI 就像一位和年轻人一同成长的好朋友，而整个品牌整个系列，也伴随着创始人兼创意总监Alexandre Mattiussi的成长而逐渐变化着。
Alexandre Mattiussi和Nicolas Santi-Weil两人很早便走到了一起，后者在2013年起担任AMI的首席执行官。在两人的不断努力下，AMI的步伐也逐渐走向更大的版图。
最初是在2013年，当时两人第一次出国参加Barney’s的活动，这家现已倒闭的百货公司，作为多个个人设计师品牌的“伯乐”，也是AMI早期的批发合作伙伴。在一个市场环境不是非常有利的情况下，品牌选择加强批发业务，拓展数字渠道，加强公关信息，很快这些努力得到了回报。
2017年，AMI一眼就能认出的Ami de Cœur标志成为新的品牌标识，在整个系列中都极有特色的超大针织衫，很快成为人手必备的一件单品。
在随后的几年里，AMI逐渐在市场中找到了自己的位置，结合疫情后消费者需求的转变和对新法式巴黎风格的追寻，AMI在疫情后的业务增长了四倍，根据Nicolas Santi-Weil接受采访时提供的数据，以Catherine Deneuve为模特，推出的以Déjà vu手袋为代表的女性配饰新品类销售额也同样增长了四倍。
韩国市场营业额的增加，也让品牌更多的看向了亚洲市场，去年10月，AMI在韩国首尔成功发布的2023春夏男装和女装系列，就是一个很好的印证。Ami继2019年在上海举办首次国际时装秀后，再次在巴黎以外的地方发布新系列，同时首家旗舰店，也在首尔高端购物和艺术区Garosu-Gil开业。
此次伴随着新系列的发布，AMI的新巴黎风尚想必也会让更多人沉迷其中。
撰文：juraj
编辑：周杨
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