作者:生活在于折腾
2022年十一,阿侃和DZ去阿布吉措重装露营
阿布吉措,在藏语里,阿布吉是表示惊叹的意思,措是水的意思,阿布吉措就是让人看到美到惊讶湖水,这是来自我们当地司机的解释。阿布吉措,这两年突然网红起来的徒步线路。我最早听说是来自综艺《幸福三重奏》第二季中,陈意涵夫妇去过,后面2-3年这个小众景点越来越红,最近传出未来要做成景区。趁着还没有被开发,赶紧去领略一下,香格里拉少有的秘境。
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阿布吉措游览有两种方式
第一种。报名一日团,向导会开车带到小中甸,徒步进入到达阿布吉措湖并原路返回,全程12km,海拔4200左右。
第二种,从洗脸盆垭口出发,途径措卡营地,阿布吉措,金柱垭口,蹦火营地,九龙牛场,最后到达北环线。全程39公里,需要3-4天。海拔从3700-4500米
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我们选择的是第二种,作为徒步爱好者,能在高原徒步露营,可以在高海拔森林、牧场里穿梭,很难拒绝这样的行程。
经过一些前期的准备和网上组队,最后约定了6人小队,三男三女,一起前往。我和DZ,我是徒步新人,徒步7个月左右,只走过北京周边的一些山,在灵山山脉露营过2次。DZ之前去过武功山徒步露营,还去过西藏。max和tata,max是活动的发起者,之前在新疆和虎跳峡徒步过。大哥和昆明gnit,大哥是70后,玩户外已经20年了,之前去过尼泊尔,户外经验丰富,并且平时有锻炼的习惯,也是本次选择重装的唯二人之一(另一个是max)。gnit,户外经验4-5年,去过雨崩,虎跳峡,还爬过奥太娜雪山,也是经验丰富。
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从左到右依次Tata,Max,侃,大哥,DZ,gnit
9月29日
早上,我和DZ分别前往北京大兴和北京首都机场,由于航班取消后改签,导致我俩原定一起的航班不得不分开。DZ是北京-丽江,然后拼车去香格里拉。我是北京-昆明-香格里拉。DZ的行程比较顺利,大概下午5点到达香格里拉。我在昆明转机时,由于核酸时间和昆明——香格里拉的航班起飞时间差了7分钟,机场拒绝我登机,我只得从昆明改乘高铁到达丽江,再从丽江拼车到达香格里拉。当时昆明疫情刚刚来袭,还好在昆明的时间控制在了4小时以内,行程码上没有昆明,否则进入香格里拉还要3天隔离。终于我在晚上7点左右和DZ在香格里拉碰面。晚上在古城里简单游玩了一下。
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首都机场和大兴机场
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贡嘎雪山,北京飞丽江空中拍摄
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昆明到香格里拉不能乘机的证明
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昆明到丽江的高铁,几乎没人
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丽江到香格里拉路上的天空
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古城内的餐厅
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古城内的酒吧和街道
9月30日。
由于max和tata有高反情况,我和DZ独自在香里拉游玩,上午参观松赞林寺,领略了藏传佛教寺庙的大气和雄伟,还有幸听了寺庙的僧人念经,几十个同时念诵经书,非常震撼。
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松赞林寺
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景区摆渡车
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拉姆央措湖,当时已经没有水了
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僧人与猫咪
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寺庙里供奉的糍粑,后面会喂给乌鸦
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中午司机大哥带着我们去了本地一家酥油茶馆,这个酥油茶馆在大众点评上都找不到,我们进去发现只有本地人,品尝到了非常正宗的酥油茶和牦牛肉。
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下午参观了纳帕海,我们选择的坐车环湖,由于涨水没有挑战网红水上公路,但是在环湖过程中也感受了湖水没过公路的神奇体验。
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湖边的夜鹭
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湖边散养的牦牛,不怕人
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湖边的马场,其实骑马环湖也是个不错的选择,更能靠近湖水但时间较长
晚上除了大哥还在赶来的路上,其他人在古城中的塔洛餐吧吃的牦牛肉火锅和牛肉比萨。结束后参观了古城的巨型转经筒
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夜晚的独克宗古城
10月1日
这一天天气不错,晴天有些许白云。早上从香格里拉出发到洗脸盆垭口,由于前一天下过雨并且一直在上升海拔,路上遇到非常大的雾气,在云雾中穿梭有一种在空中飞行的感觉。上午9点半到达洗脸盆垭口,和我们的马夫沈大哥见面并把我们的装备装马,简单整理后,开启了我们的阿布吉措徒步之旅。
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路上仙气缭绕
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洗脸盆垭口地标和旁边徒步中国的向导(有自己的专属卫衣)
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六人小队出发前合影
刚开始路程还是非常好走的,草原的景象有些低矮的灌木,在经过一小段上升后,进入了森林,路两旁的树木开始高大起来,并且有棕色的胡须,听同行的大哥说,这叫树胡子,是高原森林特有的植物,并且只有在无污染的地方才会生长。
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头巾掉了,下山回去捡,耗费了不少体力
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树胡子,也叫树花
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徒步中国的马队
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远处的天宝雪山
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途中的一片草原
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路上一些溪流
大概走了2个小时,我们迎来的第一个牧场——三牛场,这里是一片开阔的草原,远处还有一个小海子,还能看到远处的山峰。我们在三牛场吃了午餐并休息。
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max午餐还开火,真的奢侈
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徒步鞋推荐高帮加Goretex,很多涉水路
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下午1点左右,我们启程,依次经过牛场和陨石天坑群,天坑群这里有两个小海子,景色非常美,并且路也开始变好,这段路走起来简直享受。大约下午3点半左右到达了第一晚的露营地——错卡营地。到此第一天的行程到此结束,行程11km,海拔上升300米左右。
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下午途中路过的一个牧场
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陨石坑群形成的小海子
错卡营地条件非常好,旁边有一条小溪可以直接接水。我们在这里扎营,做饭。还参观了旁边的牧房和徒步中国的营地。徒步中国的营地确实气派,有专门的餐厅和客厅,并且客人睡的帐篷和睡袋地垫都是提前准备好的,一点不需要管。
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牧屋内部和徒步中国的营地
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高原气候真的神奇,虽然地面都是水但是空气非常干燥,嘴唇起皮
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营地拖鞋非常推荐
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做饭的时候高反头疼/晚餐是户外米饭和速溶汤
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同行的大哥重装带了个2kg的行军床,不得不佩服这体能。
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航拍营地,我们的四个帐篷红橙黄绿
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我们营地和旁边徒步中国的营地
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营地前面的景色
晚上8点左右,不知是由于白天穿抓绒被冷风吹到还是高反,我在帐篷里发烧了,赶紧吃了感冒药和退烧药,这里感谢一下DZ无微不至的照顾和同行小伙伴的帮助,老天保佑,大概过了1小时我就退烧了,并且第二天起床直接恢复正常,一点没有生病的迹象。现在想起来还是有点后怕,高原发烧还是非常危险的,容易导致脑水肿和肺水肿危及生命。大家上高原还是要对高原有敬畏之心。防风保暖措施做到位,不要偷懒。不过DZ照顾完我后,她又有点高反,喘不上气,睡不着。并且这晚的睡觉条件也非常差,依次是徒步中国的人飞无人机,旁边的马脖子上的铃铛一直响,并且马也经常叫。晚上4点还开始下了雨,我赶紧把无人机等怕水的东西从背包转移到帐篷里。这一晚上我每过2-3个小时就要醒一下。
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退烧后,晚上帐篷里温度大概8度左右
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睡不着在看电影的DZ
终于熬到了第二天,还是晴天为主,不过云比第一天多了一些,早上坐在帐篷旁喝一杯咖啡,看着远处的景色真是太治愈了。
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清晨营地的景色
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我们的小白马昨天晚上又是叫又是摇铃铛
第二天的行程还是挑战非常大的,要从海拔4000上升到4500再下降到3600,路程13km。经过和向导沟通,决定把马和装备交给其他向导,向导和我们一起走。这里再次感谢我们的向导,非常负责。10点左右,我们开启第二天行程,由于昨天晚上下过雨的原因,路上多了很多水坑和泥路,有些碎石路已经变成了小溪。并且由于海拔较高,气候变化快,整体还是非常难的。
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由于前天晚上下雨,这里的路都成了小溪
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大概1个小时左右,我和DZ就掉到了队伍的最后面,并且这时DZ的状态就已经不太好了,向导主动把她的包背了过去了。大概12点左右,我登上了一个比较高的垭口,这时前面的小伙伴已经在爬下个垭口,距离我们800米左右,我在垭口上等DZ,等了半天发现没有上来,飞无人机看一下,发现她和向导还在半山腰,我又等了一会,只等到了向导一个人上来,说DZ高反严重,手脚发麻已经不能再继续了,已经叫了摩托车带她下去,问我要不要一起下撤。我赶紧下去,和DZ沟通了一下,本想着让摩托车带着她上到垭口看一眼阿布吉措湖再走,但是当时她的状态已经非常差了,只好作罢,赶紧下撤。让向导也帮我叫了摩托车一起下去。等我的摩托车到了之后,师傅询问了我的状态,说你都到这里了不去看一下湖可惜了,和他确认了距离和时间之后,师傅决定带我去阿布吉措湖垭口看一眼湖再下撤。不得不说,后面的路真的很难走,有两段路由于太陡,都是我下车,师傅一个人骑上去,我再走上去的。就这样还是花了半小时左右才到了垭口,看到了阿布吉措湖,由于垭口风大并且此时天气变得比较阴只在上面草草飞了一会无人机拍了2张照片就赶紧下撤了。
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DZ下撤了
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阿布吉措湖
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摩托车司机大哥
下撤坐摩托非常快,原本要走一天的行程做摩托车只要1个多小时。大概2点半我到达了洗脸盆垭口和DZ汇合。并且约了刚才摩托司机带我们回香格里拉,不过他要回去取车,大概要一个小时。正当我们计划明后天的行程时,DZ的情况突然变得非常不好,呼吸急促手脚发麻,我们赶紧叫了其他车和打120,但是都不能及时过来。此时有几个在附近的好心人,他们正好要回香格里拉,车里还有一个位置,决定帮助我们,给DZ吃了高反药并且带DZ先去香格里拉人民医院,大概过了5分钟,刚才的摩托司机也开车到了,接上我并且在半路赶上DZ的车,DZ又换到我们的车上,司机大哥带着我们去了急诊,还帮我们排队挂号,吸氧输液后DZ脱离危险,恢复了正常。经过检查是由于体内钾低导致的电解质紊乱。大概7点输液完成后,我们在香格里拉干饭后返回民宿,结束了我们的阿布吉措行程。
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迪庆人民医院急诊的床是不消毒的,上一个用完下一个接着用
![](https://p0.ssl.img.360kuai.com/t01082348015134f5da.jpg)
还轮椅前摆拍一下
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炖牛肉,烤大排,煎松茸。医院出来一通炫
后记
这次阿布吉措之旅让我感受到到了云南人民的友好与善良,感谢我们的司机,马夫,摩托车司机,洗脸盆垭口的好心人。并且对高原有了新的认识,对高原永远敬畏,现在想起在营地发烧还是有些后怕。还有找一个靠谱的向导真的很重要,听小伙伴说,他们第二天到营地后晚上9点多还有人从山上下来,就是因为请的马夫只负责运行李没跟他们同行。虽然这次没有完成线路有些遗憾,但是对自然的向往却没有停止,神奇的经历也足够回味好久。阿布吉措虽然结束,但永远期待下次上路。
2022/10/11
其他队友的照片
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葛季宁1392网络语zd是什么意思 网络语zd的含义? -
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 网络语zd的意思是**知道**.
葛季宁1392DZ二字是什么意思? -
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 拼音的头字母, 自己去拼吧, 你觉得那个配你女朋友这样称呼你.. 嘿,或者你自己去问问你女朋友 她是把你当“呆子”“还是把你当“盗贼” 你真幸福
葛季宁1392DZ是什么意思
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 魔兽世界 盗贼的简称
葛季宁1392DZ是什么意思昂. -
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 这是盗贼们最拿手的,过人的本领.凭借老到的计谋,以及优秀的欺骗和隐藏能力,盗贼们在从事偷窃DZ就是(盗贼)的拼音前面两个各字母,是网络游戏《魔兽世界》中十大职业之一,现更名为潜行者.与阴影为伴,精于逃离的艾泽拉斯的盗贼们最擅长在幕后行动.按照他们的意愿改变事件,具备最大的优势才出击
葛季宁1392解答DZ是什么意思? -
孙将泼19890392216 ______ DZ47中的DZ是什么的缩写.根据哪个国标或标准.
葛季宁1392魔兽世界里面的DZ 、DPS是什么意思阿? -
孙将泼19890392216 ______ DZ 是一个职业 潜行者 (以前叫盗贼,取拼音的前两个字母,被和谐了)DPS 是每秒输出多少伤害的意思,是英文 damage per second 的缩写.
葛季宁1392谁知道DZ是撒意思?
孙将泼19890392216 ______ DZ 是一品牌的意思
葛季宁1392建筑楼梯上Dz是什么意思
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 可能是构造边缘端柱
葛季宁1392dz什么意思 -
孙将泼19890392216 ______[答案] DZ n. 空投地域 DZ:Dozen一打 DZ:Digital Zoom数字变焦 DZ:Algeria阿尔及利亚
葛季宁1392魔兽世界什么是DZ
孙将泼19890392216 ______ 在欧服,美服和台服里,DZ的意思是盗贼. 在国服里叫潜行者.都是一个职业,只是当初文化局说盗贼这两个字不和谐,于是改名成潜行者了