近两年你一定能在一些品牌下方的评论区中看到一句话——「它的设计好像有点Prada」。
这句话的言外之意或许并不是在说别的品牌在“模仿”Prada，但一定是对Prada在时尚方面的超前理解的肯定，如今来到24秋冬男装系列，同时也是创意总监Miuccia Prada与Raf Simons双人操刀的第十四份答卷，当中也有不少引领未来时尚趋势的蛛丝马迹，提前预习好作业，或许今年你就能提前把握住时尚趋势的关键线索。
在每一次大秀开始之前，Prada都要给到场的观众卖个关子，在邀请函环节就埋下了不少的伏笔，而这次Prada 24秋冬系列的邀请函是一本巨大的册子，打开之后是一条领带，而领带之下一张稻田湿地的图像，对于刚收到的人来说，肯定会绞尽脑汁地思考，这两者到底能有什么联系，因为在刻板印象里，与领带有关的场景中一般不会有自然景观的出现。
除了邀请函之外，秀场也同样处处是亮点。
秀场从入口进入会发现这是一个巨大的办公室，四周有着一个又一个隔间，隔间中的电脑屏幕放映着Prada Logo，但当你再往深处走，你就会走入了Prada所创造的“桃花源”——四周虽然还是办公室的装扮，并且还有办公椅的观众席，但脚下的走道瞬间变成了透明的玻璃，玻璃之下是有真实的鹅卵石、苔藓、落叶等铺开的溪流，一切都像一个处于自然界的办公室。
但你要知道，不管是邀请函，还是秀场装扮，这些都是给接下来的走秀所铺垫的。
大秀一开始，模特穿着一件温莎领拼接衬衫配棕色领带，头上裹着类似于游泳帽的包头针织帽，宽松的九分西裤腰间系着一条鳄鱼压纹的细腰带，脚踩扁平皮鞋，将户外与办公室风格的单品混合在一起，碰撞出了截然不同的化学效应。
这种化学效应在每一套造型上都得以体现。
像是传统的西装套装上半身变得更加宽松，袖长也比一般的西装要长，在视觉上显得更加的松弛，下半身具有外缝线设计的九分西裤则是凸显了整体的线条感；更加修身的风衣设计，在后颈部位有着Prada经典的倒三角标；飞行员夹克领口的位置变得更低，搭配白色衬衫与黑色领带，时髦的办公室风格扑面而来，而它们与包头针织帽所产生的风格碰撞是一种乡野与城市之间的“矛盾感”。
这种从头到尾都有头部单品的设定，其实早在创意总监Raf Simons过去自己的个人品牌里就有相似的设定，它更多的是服务于创意总监想要表达的时尚态度。
代表户外的单品并不仅仅只是包头针织帽。在此次Prada 24秋冬大秀中除了用包头针织帽来代表户外风之外，还有像海军帽也能够同样代表户外风，撞色的开衫与毛衣，配合九分西裤，以及皮革军大衣与海军帽的融合等等，它们在色彩多元化的同时，同时还会有材质的拼接情况出现，这也给予了在造型搭配上的丰富性。
如果仅仅只有头部单品能够表达出户外与办公室之间的“矛盾感”，那你把Miuccia Prada与Raf Simons想得太简单了。
鱼骨鞋、三角鱼骨款腰带、以游泳镜为灵感的眼镜单品同样是秀场中不可被忽略的户外风代表单品。秀场上像是棕色高领毛衣搭配紫色长裤，腰间的白色三角鱼骨宽腰带、包头针织帽与大框眼镜；卡其色大衣内搭黑色高领以及下装的白色长裤，腰间的黄色三角鱼骨宽腰带；双排扣西装套装与鱼骨鞋等等造型，皆为这一次Prada想要重点表达的人类当下与户外之间的联系，在这个共存的“矛盾世界”中，我们不应压抑自己对户外的渴望与需求。
还有像是白色工装夹克、运动风格的拉链风衣、皮革夹克、大衣搭配牛仔套装等造型，它们的整体造型在轮廓方面依旧是Prada的经典版型，而色彩碰撞方面更像是Raf Simons一直以来的“拿手好戏”。
在鞋履方面，Prada除了鱼骨鞋之外，牛津鞋有平底与不规则线条大底两个版本，穆勒凉拖同样也是造型上的点睛之笔。
而在包袋上，Prada这一次更多的还是以品牌经典尼龙材质为主，像是系在腰后的邮差包，亦或是双肩包以及公文包，它们尽管都没有过多的设计语言，但在一些细节上有着变动，像是公文包上有短款钱包的“装饰”、双肩包的肩带可供选择的颜色与款式变得更丰富等等，整体简约大方的设计也是给了许多人在购买百搭包袋的路上多了一个选择。
整体而言，Prada创造的这个「矛盾世界」是将人性的基本理念摆在了秀场之上，而作为最基础的，同时也往往是最容易被人们忽略的，那就是人作为动物，我们需要与周围世界建立深刻的联系，办公室世界是不少人的日常“世界”，那么户外世界又怎么不是呢？在每一个拥有“矛盾感”的造型上，你能看到创意总监Miuccia Prada与Raf Simons都在表达鼓励人们走出去，体验世界的意愿。
就像创意总监Miuccia Prada说的那样，季节的变化让人们能够以全新的眼光看待世界，时尚就跟绘画一样，跟上季节的变化节奏才是时尚所需要的。
Raf Simons则是认为时尚更替的节奏就像自然更替的节奏一样，为了适应不同空间与环境，我们会做出相对应穿搭的选择，倘若处在一个办公室与自然共存的环境中，在两者拥有“截然相反”的风格里，人们又会在穿搭上做出怎样的选择。
此次由Prada的老朋友，Rem Koolhaas领衔的OMA建筑设计事务所所打造的“矛盾世界”其实不仅仅只是反应时尚的新趋势，同时也是让人们开始自省，到底我们该怎样平衡自己与世界之间的联结，时尚从来不是单一的好看就结束了，时尚的背后同时也是关乎于人性的思考。
作者：Johnny Wai
编辑：周杨
排版：元勋
时尚圈“商战”，许光汉、王俊凯、刘昊然官宣新身份！
200元还是2.6万？年度最有争议的时尚单品出现了…
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诸晴筠1712chanel、lv、prada、gucci的品牌标志是什么样的?
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ lv是l与v相交、prada=prada、gucci是2个G相交
诸晴筠1712世界名牌服装品牌有哪些,标志什么样?(时尚类) -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 1 夏奈尔(Chanel) 2 路易·威登Louis Vuitton (LV品牌创立于1854年法国巴黎) 3 迪奥Dior (Christian dior开始于1946年法国巴黎) 4 范思哲Versace (1978年意大利米兰) 5 Prada (创于20世纪初意大利米兰) 6 卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin klein) ...
诸晴筠1712prada的复古标志的含义 -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 作为意大利皇室供货商的PRADA,自从1913年起便开始使制作印有着萨瓦盾徽和皇家章纹的图形作为标志.带这这样的观念,在2006年春夏PRADA将历史经典再度重现,以当年制作皇家工艺的技巧将PRADA Heritage Collection仕女提包重新...
诸晴筠1712十大奢侈品牌标志都是什么样的? -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 奢侈品,顾名思义,我们普通人买来没有太大的实用性,对于价位的接受是一件奢侈的事情,但是随着时代的发展,我们这一代的年轻妹子们,总是想拥有一款属于自己的奢侈品,但底子不厚的人是很难实现每件奢侈品都用一件的,但至少我们...
诸晴筠1712prada是什么牌子的鞋怎么看真假 -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 辨别真伪: 一:尼龙 真品Prada的尼龙是用降落伞料做成的,这种材料耐热、厚实、挺括、有韧度,其材料表面反光度不大,而且在放大镜下可以看出斜纹.而假Prada用普通的化学纤维制成,要么太轻太薄没有质感,要么太厚太硬手感不佳...
诸晴筠1712各国品牌标志有哪些?有什么特点? -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 一、唐纳.卡兰(donnakaran)的创始人是一个外表平和貌不惊人的女子,为了使其服饰王国走向多元化,在1984年和丈夫联手创立了自己的公司,推出了一系列各具特色的产品:dkny、dknyclassic dknaactive、dknyjesns,对纽约所汇聚的不...
诸晴筠1712几年前买的普拉达女包,现在官网下架了,还可以鉴定真假吗 -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 可以的区分出来的,真真假假还是有些区别的,不过现在用假的人也很多,不是为了装,就是为了好看,大品牌的包还是好看很多
诸晴筠1712为什么有的PRADA有写made in ITALY 有的没有? -
伍溥荀17282873112 ______ 你好,请问您确定您所说的Prada包都是正版的吗,正版的Prada包上的logo都是一个倒三角形的,上面写着PRADA MILANO DAL1913.而您所说的made in Italy不一定和logo印在一起,有的像黑色尼龙包也没有.谢谢.
