你印象中的Fendi有着怎样的「关键词」？或许不少人对于Fendi的第一印象是有着相当的质感，在配饰与男装创意总监Silvia Venturini Fendi的执掌之下，Fendi的男装线在每一次都能拿出品质与时髦相契合的答卷，当然，这一次的24秋冬系列也不例外！
配饰与男装创意总监Silvia Venturini Fendi
一开始，Fendi就给各位来宾献上了由意大利艺术家Nico Vascellari所打造的艺术作品，将Fendi的“FF”交织字母进行拉长并延伸至整个秀场之中，在Fendi总部中开辟出奇妙几何造型的观众席。
同时，Fendi也遵循与意大利电子音乐界联手打造秀场背景音乐的传统，邀请到了Nico Vascellari和DJ兼制作人Rocco Rampino为秀场创作专属配乐。
左 Nico Vascellari(左)
右 Rocco Rampino
就像一开始说得那样，Fendi对于质感的追求是绝对的。
在开场造型中，Fendi就直奔主题，模特戴着墨镜，穿着棕色皮夹克，内搭拼色针织衫，紧接着，模特的下装便“甩”出了今天的重磅单品——裤裙，拥有数道褶皱的军绿色裤裙穿在身上，配上长筒靴与登山袜，让整体造型呈现出一种都市与乡野风格的碰撞。
贯穿整场的裤裙设计不仅仅只有这一种面貌，它有格纹样式的、灯芯绒的、羊毛的，甚至有蜡面抛光的，这些裤裙的出现，让男生可以在冬日的下装方面多了一项选择，并且你会发现不同材质、颜色的裤裙，它们都有着各自的搭配属性，换句话说，Fendi让这一本身较易踩雷的时尚单品，通过与不同单品的混搭，迸发出了截然不同的化学效应，同时也给不少想尝试裤裙单品的男士做了一个参考答案级别的示范。
如今随着时尚的不断演变，在男装领域不变的依旧是廓形方面的混合与多样性。
除了裤裙之外，像是宽松外套采用了连肩袖的设计，而胸前平滑皮质扣绊的纽扣取代了传统纽扣，搭配Fendi经典的Selleria皮领，局部的“灯芯绒”让造型有着对比感；水洗丹宁与马海毛经过缠绕、切条与编织等多重复杂工艺之后，呈现出带流苏状的“皮草”质感；在通过打褶与抛光处理后，皮革被制成了风衣、飞行员夹克等单品，这些单品皆是Fendi在工艺与细节方面的体现，同时在廓形方面又不失风范。
还有像是围裹式开衫的不规则罗纹排列配以珠宝艺术总监Delfina Delettrez Fendi设计的FF水晶胸针、Polo毛衫与背心的拼接、FF帆布材质的渔夫大衣与防水蜡光夹克、透视短袖Polo连身裙等单品也都是Fendi此次大秀上给予观众在视觉上的惊喜，在细节方面到处都充满了浓浓的欧式风情。
配饰与鞋履方面，Peekaboo ISeeU Soft与Baguette Soft Trunk手袋依旧是品牌的“主旋律”，作为品牌最为经典的包袋来说，它们就是Fendi的“定海神针”，而像是新款Siesta枕头包、饰有FF²铬金标识的折叠式Melon hobo手袋则是满足了不同人士于生活中不同场合的应用。
除了长筒靴之外，秀场上也能随处看到厚底乐福鞋与短脚蹼鞋的出现，它们也给人们的日常穿搭提供了多种搭配选择。
不过，整场秀还有一个「特别嘉宾」，那就是Fendi联手法国高端音响品牌DEVIALET，并以其Mania便携式蓝牙音响为蓝本，配以棕色、烟草色、黑色等多种颜色的FF外壳，让音响也开始有了“新皮肤”。
整体来看，这一次配饰与男装创意总监Silvia Venturini Fendi向人们展示了混搭风的多种玩法，在如今混搭风或许已经到了“穷途末路”之时，她告诉人们，可以利用冷门单品搭配出更多的花样，并且，质感与细节的变动可以让整体造型更上一层楼！
自传奇设计师Karl Lagerfeld逝世之后，Silvia Venturini Fendi一直掌管着品牌男女两条线，其中女装还有高定线，后续随着Kim Jones的加入，于21春夏高定首秀之后，也就代表着她肩上的担子稍微轻了一些。
从22春夏开始，你能发现Fendi在每一次的秀场上都在做一些大胆的尝试，且这些尝试都是能够改变传统男性搭配公式的存在——例如22春夏的男士超短裤与露脐上衣、22秋冬的「红毯装扮主题」、23春夏的抽象画涂鸦、24春夏的工人装扮等等，这些关键词与主题的背后，是Fendi想要引领如今时尚趋势的一颗心。
再到这一次的24秋冬，你能明显感觉到Silvia Venturini Fendi是愈发熟练地知道消费者需要的是什么，而并非只是简单地为品牌创造爆款。
如何能引领时尚趋势，对于Fendi而言那就是做一些平常大家不太会做的事情，将那些被人们忽略的穿搭单品重新“翻新”，或是被人们遗忘的穿搭风格重新注入新鲜血液，在每一次的选择与碰撞中，Fendi总是能够以质感在众多奢牌中脱颖而出，同时又能以创新者的身份，为男士的穿搭提供更多元化的公式，这对于如今的时尚圈来说，正是被需要的。
但随着爆款热度的下滑，品牌无法继续推出爆款之后，等待Fendi的便是成为圈中的“小透明”，这或许也给Fendi在脑海中敲响了警钟，让它明白爆款终究只能让品牌红一时，但风格与辨识度能让Fendi在时尚圈红“一世”，从目前来看，Silvia Venturini Fendi至少选对了路，届时，就看她到底怎样改变时尚圈的趋势发展，我们不如拭目以待。
作者：Johnny Wai
编辑：周杨
排版：元勋
时尚圈“商战”，许光汉、王俊凯、刘昊然官宣新身份！
200元还是2.6万？年度最有争议的时尚单品出现了…
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